[etech]

Hi all,

I spent some time today cleaning and preping my 650B chassis for the electronic restoration to come. I removed the tuning gang and cleaned and greased it. I also replaced the mounting grommets. Boy, removing that tuning gang is not a job I would care to do again on the 650B. I ended up having to loosen the band switch mounts and push it backward to get to the rear tuning gang bolt. I unsoldered the ground braids on each gang on the chassis top at the capacitor. The middle and rear stator wires were most easily unsoldered at the bandswitch. The front stator wire was most easily removed atop the chassis at the stator terminal itself. What a lot of gyrations to get this done. It is definitely not one of the easier tuner gangs to remove.

Anyway, since I had the gang removed, I went ahead and cleaned and polished the chassis while I was at it. Whew, this chassis was really dirty and greasy and grimy. I swear this chassis must have spent most of its life stored on top of an oil burner. Well anyway, I guess I'm ready to start the re-capping now. Here are a few pics of my progress.

This is the chassis before any work was done.
[Image: http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q136/...sisTop.jpg]

Here is a front shot after cleaning.
[Image: http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q136/...Front1.jpg]

Here is rear looking shot after cleaning.
[Image: http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q136/...isRear.jpg]

Oh yes, I forgot to mention, I slapped a coat of paint on the transformers too.

Ed

[Ron Ramirez]

WOW! Can you describe exactly how you managed to get your chassis that clean?

[etech]

WOW! Can you describe exactly how you managed to get your chassis that clean?

Yes, I use the same procedure on all of them, in various steps, depending on how bad they are. I always start by cleaning everything with mineral spirits. Then, I polish all of the aluminum coil and I.F. cans with 'Mothers Mag and Aluminum Polish'. Most of the time this is enough to make the chassis presentable.

In the tough cases like this one, I use a procedure that I would not recommend to everyone, because of the risks. I scrub the chassis with wet and soapy SOS/Brillo pads. Yes, I know the risks of using steel wool on a chassis, but this procedure has worked well for me on many of them. I would only do this if the tuner gang is removed. Also, not only does the soap help to clean, but the combination of soap and water on the pad, helps to keep the steel wools pieces from the pad in suspension in the soap, and not in the air. If the soap is running out in the pad, use a new one. The key is lots of soap. Anyway, then it is a simple matter to wipe or wash or if need be, hose the chassis down with fresh water. This one only required wiping down with a clean, wet cloth. This procedure requires lots of elbow grease, so to speak. Also, a final polishing of the chassis with 'Mothers' helps to even out the appearance. YMMV!

The last step, if the chassis is really bad after cleaning with mineral spirits, is to sand and repaint. We have all been there.

Ed

[auplater]

Looks really good, Ed. I used a Scotchbrite and buffing wheels mounted on small spindles to reach between the various non-removable cans on the 37-116 I'm currently restoring. You can chuck it in a portable drill or Dremel to scrub the surfaces. Then selective masking and light touch-up with Krylon metal paint. I'm kinda loathe to pull the RF sub-chasis on this thing, though I guess I'm gonna have to to get to the paper caps and finish the cleanup.

[Image: http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/aup...RECAP2.jpg]

Keep up the good work

John L.

[etech]

That looks really nice John. Thanks for the tip. I also have a 37-116 chassis to do. When I first purchased it, I did a temporary change out of the filter caps to see if the radio had any serious issues. It didn't, it plays fine, so now I need to clean it and do a full recap. I haven't pursued this because the cabinet on mine may not be restorable. It has lots of cracked veneer. I am waiting to see if another cabinet might turn up in better shape.

BTW, here is a Philco 90 chassis I did a while back. I think it turned out decent.

[Image: http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q136/...o90Top.jpg]

Ed

[auplater]

Cool...looks good

I'm looking for a Philco 90 chasis... seen any available recently? I restored a 90 console cabinet many moons ago, but the chasis went missing after x number of moves, etc... so I'm always on the lookout to complete it.

l8tr

John L.

[etech]

The Philco 90 chassis show up on Ebay from time to time. You don't happen to know where I can get a Philco 90 cathedral cabinet do you?

Ed

[Guest]

It seems to be a thing with some US restorers to polish the chassis like custom cars, not so over in Brit land.

Isn't there a risk when you do it that you remove much of the cad plate and you are then only polishing the steel? So later it goes dull and then rusts maybe? Also, it is far from original... but thats personal taste.

I only ever clean with a non-abrasive hand cleaner and brushes, cotton buds, strips of cloth etc. After the chassis is cleaned with Mineral spirits and then sprayed with a coat of shellac for more protection. At this time I have a bare chassis apart from the coils hanging on their wires and masked off.

I only lightly polish the coil cans but on this 16B chassis I did have the tube cans dull nickel plated (they will dull more eventually).

[Image: http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff64/...assist.jpg]

Gary

[Chuck Schwark]

The Philco 90 chassis show up on Ebay from time to time. You don't happen to know where I can get a Philco 90 cathedral cabinet do you?

Ed

Dick Oliver.

Order Form: http://www.radioswapmeet.com/store/doliver.pdf

Dick Oliver's Reproduction Philco cabinet parts.
For cathedral models:
Front Panels
Base Moulding
Rear Arch Supports

For the Philco Grandfather or Colonial clock:
Finials - Trim pieces
Call or write for your needs.

Antique Radio Service
Dick Oliver
1725 Juniper Place, #310
Goshen, IN 46526
Ph. (574) 537-3747
Email: dolivears@aol.com

[etech]

Isn't there a risk when you do it that you remove much of the cad plate and you are then only polishing the steel? So later it goes dull and then rusts maybe? Also, it is far from original... but thats personal taste.

Yes, I think it is a matter of the condition of the chassis when you get it. If you notice the Philco 90 chassis I did, it was cleaned with mineral spirits and remained otherwise untouched. The aluminum cans were cleaned, but that is how aluminum looks when it is new.

Now, as far as the Philco 650B chassis, it was so badly stained, that it was only one step away from needing painting or replating. I do not store my radios in damp environment, so I don't think rust will be an issue. But if it is, then the chassis will require no more than painting or re-plating (owners choice here) which is what I would have done, had I not been able to clean it up. So, in my opinion, nothing is lost.

Overall, I think each owner/restorer has to make a choice on the level of cleanup for the chassis based on its overall condition and the level of appearance he/she is willing to accept.

Ed

[etech]

Chuck,

I am aware of Dick Oliver's cabinets and they are beautiful. I was hoping to find someone with an original, although I know it is a long shot. They do show up on Ebay from time to time, but at ridiculous prices. If I don't find one, at some point, I will purchase one of Dick's cabinets to finish up the project.

Ed

[Guest]

Hi Ed

I think you wil find that the chassis, if thin or devoid of plating, will rust even if left in a warm environment. The normal household temperature cycles will produce condensation and thats enough.

I recommend you to try Zinser Spray shellac maybe on an old chassis first. In tests by me it has fantastic adhesion. It dries with a gloss but can be made invisable by another light coat of matt acrylic lacquer (this is what I do).

Yes! your 90 chassis is much how mine look

cheers Gary

[BDM]

Personally, I wipe them down with nothing more than electric motor cleaner. If it strikes me, I'll also remove the aluminum cans and polish those. Also, I'll "rub" gun oil into the chassis, while very lightly applying the oil so no obvious residue is left. That has served me well over the years.

So far, my Philco's have been pretty rust free. In fact my 650B chassis is very nice. I'll avoid purchasing any set that has more than 10% rust on it. Call me silly, but I'm just not interested in stripping a chassis down and scrubbing it. Mostly because I'm afraid of removing the plating(what little Philco used), and I like that fact they're more original. At least in my eyes.

Now, this is no way shape or form knocking anyone who restores a chassis. I've seen some very impressive work. It's strictly preference in my book with no right or wrong, to a point. If you decide the chassis will look better in pink polk-a-dot, I'll have a few words for you

P.S., I'm at work and cannot see the pics. I'll check it when I get home.

[BDM]

Thing has a mirror finish

[etech]

Thing has a mirror finish

Yes, and the darn thing even plays too, including the shadow meter.

Whoda thunkit!

Ed