09-20-2008, 12:39 AM
The only reason I use solid-state vibrators in these old 6 v dc type auto radios, is #1, Ive never had a prob using them before at all for several yrs past! Absolutely no probs at all!
#2: the points in the orig-types vibrators will most definately fail again in the future, due to oxidation & corrosion...guaranteed!
#3: if spending a xtra $30 bucks or so for a dependable S/S vibrator installed in customers auto-type tube radios for "reliable" operation in the future is a issue?? so beit. To each his own indeed!
My customers vintage auto type radios wont leave my shop "without" a S/S type vibrator installed,period! S/S vibrators are Much more reliable than the originals! .. and most customers dont know how to open the old vibrators to file & clean the points, and/or apply voltage to make them operable again.
The n.o.s. 0Z4 tubes we use in these type radios has a bad history also! Always install a new buffer-cap, in these type radios, and never fear "updating" the vibrator while the radio is on your bench. Ive never had a S/S vibrator fail yet since they have been in production, but then again, use your preferred choice! "Choice & Time" is what proves new components types integrity in the 1st place! I dont throw away my mechanical type vibrators at all. I use them for "test" purposes only!
As a general rule on vintage auto tube radios, the tubes all use about 1-amp each, so if you have a 5-tube set operating properly after full recap, your amp meter should be around 5 amps total DC current draw for the radio after warmup of the tube filaments.Monitor all tube filaments (string) test for exact 6.3 volts on slow variac DC power applied. These type radios have a higher "surge draw" from initial power-on. The reason for so many 6v DC type "on-off" switches being bad being bad buffer caps also. For a 6v auto tube type radio, use a 14-15 amp fuse as most mfgrs did back then on the 6v DC line into chassis which will more than cover the power-on surge at the on/off switch. If you have "noise-hash" issues, while unit is connected to a vintage Ac to DC bench test supply, remember that the "hash" is from the AC converter to DC supply, and once Radio is connected properly to the auto-battery, that noise is gone, unless the antenna has probs, or the autos generator or voltage regulator needs a added capacitor to chassis ground to rid hash. Using a .47/600 v bypass cap replaces the old metal-cased expensive auto-store types! Just my .02 only.
#2: the points in the orig-types vibrators will most definately fail again in the future, due to oxidation & corrosion...guaranteed!
#3: if spending a xtra $30 bucks or so for a dependable S/S vibrator installed in customers auto-type tube radios for "reliable" operation in the future is a issue?? so beit. To each his own indeed!
My customers vintage auto type radios wont leave my shop "without" a S/S type vibrator installed,period! S/S vibrators are Much more reliable than the originals! .. and most customers dont know how to open the old vibrators to file & clean the points, and/or apply voltage to make them operable again.
The n.o.s. 0Z4 tubes we use in these type radios has a bad history also! Always install a new buffer-cap, in these type radios, and never fear "updating" the vibrator while the radio is on your bench. Ive never had a S/S vibrator fail yet since they have been in production, but then again, use your preferred choice! "Choice & Time" is what proves new components types integrity in the 1st place! I dont throw away my mechanical type vibrators at all. I use them for "test" purposes only!
As a general rule on vintage auto tube radios, the tubes all use about 1-amp each, so if you have a 5-tube set operating properly after full recap, your amp meter should be around 5 amps total DC current draw for the radio after warmup of the tube filaments.Monitor all tube filaments (string) test for exact 6.3 volts on slow variac DC power applied. These type radios have a higher "surge draw" from initial power-on. The reason for so many 6v DC type "on-off" switches being bad being bad buffer caps also. For a 6v auto tube type radio, use a 14-15 amp fuse as most mfgrs did back then on the 6v DC line into chassis which will more than cover the power-on surge at the on/off switch. If you have "noise-hash" issues, while unit is connected to a vintage Ac to DC bench test supply, remember that the "hash" is from the AC converter to DC supply, and once Radio is connected properly to the auto-battery, that noise is gone, unless the antenna has probs, or the autos generator or voltage regulator needs a added capacitor to chassis ground to rid hash. Using a .47/600 v bypass cap replaces the old metal-cased expensive auto-store types! Just my .02 only.
