Guest Join UsHello Guest,
Please feel free to join us!
Unlock sections of the Phorum that non-members cannot see.
Sign up for Phorum membership today! or Register


Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
Philco 18D Questions and Pictures
#1
Tongue 
I am sorry if this is a long first post. Hang with me here, I have a lot to say Icon_smile

First off, WOW! Great site and information - all well placed and laid out. From all the information I have found on this website, I believe I can conclude my Great Grandmother's radio is a Philco Model 18D. I know as many of you that are collectors of retro like I am, stories are always awesome to hear when accompanied with vintage pieces like this. So here it goes.

This radio has been in my family since purchased new (I think...or close to new, haha) . Growing up, my grandfather's family did not have a lot. He told me this was one of his favorite pieces in the house as a kid. He would sit in front of it listening to many stories, and conversations on this radio. Also, being from St Louis - an uncountable amount of baseball games were played including a few world series games! Sadly, as time went on and technology improved, this radio was not as cared for as it's prime-time of day. However, it always remained an integral furniture piece within my family, and is still standing to this day. Due to some neglect down the line, my great grandmother kept a plant on it warping the veneer and wood underlay on top. I suspect this caused humidity and internal rusting of the chassis module and components. It was always stored inside however, and besides the top the rest of the cabinet is complete and it great condition for its age.

My mother told me that from our lineage, it was passed from my Great Grandmother, to my Grandfather, to my Mother, and now to Me. When my mother received it from my Grandfather, she said she recalled it worked when she turned it on, and that was the last time she remembers it working. Granted, that was approximately 30 years ago, so it makes sense.

I have owned this radio for approximately 4 years now, and am finally having the time to research and give it the love it finally deserves. I realize old Philco's do not retain much value in this kind of shape. Although I am kind of excited it seems to be a rarer model (approx. 5,000 of this cabinet style was manufactured and only for a couple of months?), I am seeking to possibly have this restored.

My background: I have been in the vintage electronics hobby (mostly old video game systems) since I was a kid. I have zero experience in radio restoration. I am a mechanical engineer, and I service biomedical instrumentation for my profession. I have an oscilloscope and fluke voltmeter I use on a daily basis. Although I want to restore the cabinet, I almost feel like I have a mission to put in my own sweat and knowledge to appreciate the sound that will come out of this Radio. (I know....as a novice this will require a lot of help).

I'm not sure where to start. The schematic on the back left of the cabinet is 95% missing. The schematic database does not have a model 18 schematic from what I can see. The chassis needs naval jelly bad to see under the dirt and rust. When I recalled the last time my Mother turned the radio on, the components smelled bad (almost like something was burning) and we immediately turned it off. The dial to turn the numerical paper display does not turn the display, just spins. The furtherest right bottom knob also seems to spin without much resistance. The pictures speak the rest of the work it needs. But if you can look past all this, it is complete. Untouched (lol) for many years.


Below are the pics. I guess, first to start my journey, I need a schematic, and also (this sounds silly), but I need to figure out how to get the dial knobs off so i can remove the chassis. If there is a hobbyist here that will be of help to me, I would greatly appreciate it - this is strictly a project of love and heirloom. Many of these components I know need TLC. I truly just want to revive a piece of my grandfather's childhood once again. Again, great site, and I look forward to the help of the members here! /endlongestfirstpostever


[Image: http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af109...4A0A8C.jpg]

[Image: http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af109...A97020.jpg]

[Image: http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af109...2204FE.jpg]

[Image: http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af109...807420.jpg]

[Image: http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af109...FEE0C5.jpg]

[Image: http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af109...2D6EAF.jpg]

[Image: http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af109...935BD9.jpg]

[Image: http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af109...81A166.jpg]
Reply
#2
http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Resources/303/T0000303.htm

AR,

Welcome.
Above is the link to Philco section of Nostalgia Air. Find 18 and look at the sch.
First thing: no powering up.

You will have to clean, inspect and recap before you do.
Good thing is, the only crumbling rubber coated wires are from tone control, the rest is cloth and is durable. Power cord may have to go, and so may speaker wires.

Right now there is a thread on an 18 being restored by Bob Andersen.
http://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=14063
I also did one three years ago.


You being an engineer and knowing how to use meter and scope is helpful.
Any questions, just ask, this is probably the most experienced Philco restore bunch.
Luck!
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
Reply
#3
Welcome to the Phorum!!
Icon_wave
Here's a schematic to start you off http://www.nostalgiaair.org/pagesbymodel...013149.pdf but it will be difficult to read. Do yourself a favor and order a set from Chuck for a few bucks, they are worth it.

Your set is most likely restorable and the cabinet certainly is. Take your time, read first, ask questions. The knobs should pull straight off the shaft. Sometimes they can be stubborn. Some of the guys who have seen 18s before can give you first hand insights. The electolytic caps, all the paper caps and some of the resistors will need to be replaced. The electrolytics can be opened and restuffed with new caps so the appearance of the chassis will stay the same (if you want do to that). There are threads on how to do that on this phorum and Chuck has a tutorial here..

You'll want to check the power transformer to see if the primary and secondaries are showing continuity, similarly check the speaker voice coil and field coil for continuity. Those can be harder to find replacements for.
Reply
#4
I was lucky with my 18. Just recap-recarb, all magnetics good, speaker too.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
Reply
#5
Hi A and welcome to Phorum!!
Short of the top cabinet looks very good! Don't know what sort of expectations you have for this project but I'd give the cabinet "The Treatment" that is some very fine steel wool and non pumice GOJO. You might be very happy with the results. And then repair the top / refinish. That is the simplest and if it doesn't meet your expectations you haven't done anything that is hard to change.

A thought on the chassis. Some would really tear in to it with soldering gun blazing and wire wheels spinning stripping it down to it's bare bones. Replacing everything short of the parts that are made of unatainunm. A lot of times they end up creating more problems than fixing. As you may have guessed I would consider a more conservative approach. At this point (being pretty dusty and dirty) it's a bit hard to tell how much rust/corruption there is. If it's in a noncritical area like near the power supply from an electrical standpoint it may not matter so much other than the appearance. If there is some up in the tuned circuits then it may need to be addressed. Again it comes  back to the expectations.
After the chemical stripping has been done how do you protect the new bare metal? Oils, clear paint,or pigmented paint??

After having a look at the diagram electrically it's a good design having a RF amplifier and in the audio amp that uses triode connected push/pull 42 tube w/a 42 driver tube. If memory serves me well that's was Philco's 10 watt hi fidelity audio output stage. It was used in Philco's higher end sets around that time. So when it's all done you'll have a set that sensitive and have a very good sound oh and let's not forget the shadow meter.

A couple of things to look out for... Open coils like the shadow meter, driver transformer primary, and primaries on the antenna oscillator coils.

Anyway I'm getting a bit long winded myself! Glad to have you aboard. There's lots of good help here by folk's that are much smarter than me. Enjoy the resto!!

Terry
Reply
#6
Oh....yeah, terry's post has reminded me: the shadowmeter was open indeed. It was bypassed with a resistor for teh radio to work. I fixed it (Alabama ARS rewound it for $50). So the shadometer works now.

As Terry said, some folks like to strip chassis bare and rewire. Not many of those here Icon_smile Not one myself. The wiring up to 1938 typically holds well. Another thing if you have to for whatever reason to de-solder the wire, this can mangle it, but if you have some length to spare, just cut it close to the soldering point, then when soldering it back, strip and solder.

If you decide to restuff backelite caps, there is a thread here on how to do this without de-soldering the caps, this saves a lot of work and keeps the wiring and most of soldering joints original.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
Reply




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)

About Philco Phorum

The Philco Phorum is a family-friendly place for the discussion of Philco radios and related items.

Please feel free to join us! Unlock sections of the Phorum that non-members cannot see. Sign up for Phorum membership today!

           Quick Links