[NostalgiaRadioTime]

Thanks, Ron. Just replied to your PM.

[NostalgiaRadioTime]

OK Terry (and anyone else who is better at this than I am), hang with me on this...

I have the "new" power transformer installed from the model 16 parts chassis.  I'm getting a 3 to 4 amp current draw and the sound becoming somewhat garbled as the set plays a few minutes. One of the 42 audio output's (the one closest to the outside of the chassis) gets a lot hotter and brighter than the one right next to it. In checking voltages, on both 42 audio output tubes, P to K I'm getting 288 / 300 volts and it should be 190. Way too high. The 42 driver tube, which should also read 190, is low. It reads 160 P to K.

In trying to isolate where the draw is coming from, I removed the rectifier tube and brought it up to 120VAC on the variac. Of course I get no draw. Zero.

Then I reinstalled the rectifier and removed both 42 audio output tubes. Again at 120 VAC I have only 1 amp of AC draw.

With only one #42 audio output tube in (the inside socket), at 120 VAC I get 2 amps draw. Switching this #42 to the outside socket (the one that was running hot), I'm back to 3 amps draw.

Leaving both audio output tubes in, and just removing the #42 driver tube, I'm pushing 4 amps draw at 120 VAC.

I'm probably confusing you as to why I'm wasting my time or having you shake your head in bewilderment right about now

But I'm trying to take a logical approach to try to isolate the area where the draw first starts occurring. If, based on what I'm finding, you have any thoughts or ideas as to where to look first (the link to the schematic is on page one of this thread), I would be most deeply appreciative. I checked all of my solder joints and did not find anything amiss.

[Radioroslyn]

Did you put the driver transformer in or is r/c circuit still in play? If so put the transformer in. Sounds like you don't have any negative voltage on pin 4 on one or both of the 42 output tubes. Should see about -24v. Check transformer secondary resistance and make sure the cap on the power transformer hv ct have the + to the chassis and - to the ct. 300v is ok on the 42's w/the proper bias.

[NostalgiaRadioTime]

Thanks once again Terry. No I didn't put the driver in yet. Will give that a shot tomorrow night.

[Radioroslyn]

You can check the bias voltage on pin 4 w/o the 42's plugged in. W/o bias it's hard on the 42's the 80 and the opt.

[NostalgiaRadioTime]

Question on the #97 capacitor block...it says there's just a .3 mfd inside, yet there are three terminals on top of the block, and three wires coming up from the bottom of the block through the holes, one wire connected to each of the three terminals. I'm not seeing a third wire on the schematic....it just goes between the two 8 mfd electrolytics. Is this some special three-legged cap?

http://www.nostalgiaair.org/pagesbymodel...013141.pdf

[Radioroslyn]

No Just connects across the two filters. Is one one of the lugs grounded by the mounting screw?? Where does the 3rd wire go??

[Ron Ramirez]

Those 6287-F and similar 0.3 uF blocks actually contain two 0.15 uF caps wired in partial parallel (one end common and wired together internally, the other two ends wired together at the terminals). A new 0.33 uF film cap probably won't fit in the block, but two new 0.15 uF film caps will (barely) fit inside...which is probably why Philco did it that way to begin with.

[Steve Davis]

I would use 10uf for each of the filter capacitors and just remove the capacitors from the 97 block.

Steve

[Kenneth F. Besso Jr.]

E-bay has a 116 speaker for $20.00

[Radioroslyn]

E-bay has a 116 speaker for $20.00

For a X or B?? There was a member looking for a X (console)

[Kenneth F. Besso Jr.]

didn't say

[Ron Ramirez]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/371737783841

It's an H series speaker for a 116B - and in mighty poor shape, in my opinion.

I am the member who was looking for a 116X speaker (and I still am...but Phorum rules do not allow ads in this section).

[NostalgiaRadioTime]

Speaking of speakers... the speaker on my model 16 has a bad rattle anything over a 1/4 volume.  It plays fine at low volume but once you get past 1/4 turn on the volume control, it rattles and distorts the sound.

I don't see any visible damage that could be causing it. The web in the center looks intact without cracks and is pliable.

   

   

   

   

   

Can anyone tell me what could be the cause of this and walk me through what I need to do to fix it?

[NostalgiaRadioTime]

Well i'm convinced the rattle and distortion is caused by the volume control. I took it apart and cleaned it but it is heavily worn inside around where the wiper goes. The distortion first starts after a 1/4 volume and the starting point is very noticeable. So I'm trying to get ahold of Mark for a new control. Hope he responds soon.

So now I'm trying to get the shadow meter to function. I have a model 4319 / Philco part number 6497-Y. The coil measures 830 ohms and the movement is free.

I've been using the guide on Chuck's site to try to repair it but my shadow meter doesn't have a horse shoe magnet below the coil. It has a straight thin bar 1/4" × 3/4" x 1/16" thick. It is not magnetic or no longer magnetic. Is it supposed to be magnetic and if so how can I get it that way again?