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Almost done with a model 60. The gear reduction tuning shaft slips at various points. I have cleaned and oiled the bearings to remove any sticking of the capacitor but still get some slip. Any tips on how to clean or fix this?
Thanks
BTW; this work would have been almost impossible without the model 60 evolution information available here. THANKS!
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Welcome to the Phorum!
I did a 60MB not too long ago and was looking at my pics, unfortunately I did not take a lot of the tuning shaft mechanism, just what was in my
thread.
UPDATE...I had the wrong URL to the above thread...corrected now.
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You take off tat bell-shaped cap where the tuning shaft enters. Be careful not to spill the balls when have it opened.
Clean everything. Put the bell back and tighten. I am not sure there should be any grease inside. I usually leave it dry.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
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(01-09-2017, 02:18 PM)morzh Wrote: You take off tat bell-shaped cap where the tuning shaft enters.
OK. Good to know! I did not see that the bell could come off. I will give it a try tonight after removing tuning cap so I can keep the balls under control.
Thanks.
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You don't have to remove the cap on account of the gear. It is quite nicely accessible with just the dial off.
Unless you have to remove it anyway, than sure.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
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(01-09-2017, 02:48 PM)morzh Wrote: You don't have to remove the cap on account of the gear. It is quite nicely accessible with just the dial off.
Unless you have to remove it anyway, than sure.
Yes, I was planning on removing it anyway since the rubber mounts are shot and need to be replaced. It was helpful to have it on the workbench and keep the balls from wandering off. I took them out and cleaned inside the shaft with a q-tip then cleaned the inside of the bell cap. It all makes sense now. The bell shaped cap is the race for the 3 balls that make up the friction drive / gear reduction and the bell is held on by a copper leaf spring which gives the tension for the drive. I had not seen a mechanism like this before so I added a bit of knowledge.
However I am finding at my age that my memory has saturated and for every new piece I get something else leaves. Sadly I don't get to pick what bit goes away. :-)
Thanks for the tips!
Rick
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Like Kelly Bundy
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
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Another bit that puzzles me. The tuning cap is isolated by the rubber feet, but then has a ground strap soldered to the rear mounting screw by a braided ground strap directly to the chassis. This is a very awkward setup. You have a screw that has solder all over the top making it difficult to remove. Why not just ground the frame of the cap to the chassis directly? I am thinking of putting aluminum or brass spacers under the cap. Is there a valid reason to shock mount the tuning cap??
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The rubber grommets are NOT to isolate the cap but to remove the microphonics. You have to understand the function of something you question before reworking it.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
