[jcassity]

edit update to this post 1- date of 25 april 2017
For the subject line of this thread, during the restoration i found out i would need to be using the 46-1226 code 122 prints.
Code 121 is close, but code 122 are a match BUT,, there are updates to to the code 122 such as some filter cap changes, PM speaker mod and power supply secondary re-wire tasks.  THERE IS NO KNOWN print to specifically match code 125,, dont even ask.  in order to restore a 46-1226 code 125, you must combine code 122 prints and the updates which will then equal code 125.  

5may2017 update= lessons learned- If you obtained a set of prints from Chuck at the philco work bench **and** you are restoring a code 125, ****USE ONLY*** the fold out schematic for rewiring as this iwll accuratly represent the changes pertaining to the V1 7AF7 tube socket updates.
You will recieve a technican repair guide pamplet and that represets the component layouts for an *earlier* radio version.,,, use the pamplet as a guide only but revert to the fold out schematic to work through your troubleshooting or repair.
if questions call scott at 304 772 3411, thats me.

Restoration of a code 125 , 46-1226 in work.

First question,
~has anyone encountered loctal tube sockets being installed bass ackwards?
a couple of mine are that way on v4 and v2.  I find it historically interesting that i can see with a magnifying glass the assembly line person actually scratched off the numbers.  Everthing is wired per the code 121 diagrams and matches fine if ii simply just reassign pin 5 as pin 1.... LOL.

also, i found a great resource for you all, he is selling everything,,, up in medina ohio.  Play things of the past is his company name.
simply read the instructions , follow exactly what he says to do with your order.  copy and past "HIS" inventory line into your order.

back to work while i wait for code 125 diagrams from Chuck at the philco work bench site.

[klondike98]

Be sure to check out Ron's resources page, it has many great listings. http://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=14950
Play Things has been a great source for many years.

There are some strange wiring setups, often as repairs but sometimes factory.

[jcassity]

for the smaller "resistor" look alike caps, if they are not burned up, do you guys replace them?
Man i cant wait to get my hads on the code 125 diagrams, running into a lot of resistor conflicts on my code 121 diagrams.

I will take some pics and post, i am going through it one ckt at a time.

moving on to opening up the large metal canisters that hold caps, and find out what they are so these can be replaced.

I will kill some time and look in the for sale section of various things.

looking for another Hallicrafters S38d for my son and an isolation transformer to power it up.  perhaps i will find a huntron for sale and maybe an old simpson 360.

[David]

   
Hope this helps. David

[Mondial]

The small caps that look like resistors are early style ceramic caps and do not need to be replaced unless they are obviously bad. They do not deteriorate with age like the paper and electrolytic types.

Do not replace unnecessarily, as some are in RF tuned circuits which will affect alignment.

[jcassity]

thank you david!
I am working off a print that i got emailed to me in like 2003 from a member at notstalgia air. I printed it out back than and put it inside the radio where it lived for all these years. I notice nostalgia air still has the code 121 still up ,, although i suspect i am code 125. Chuck at the philco work bench is getting me a package together.

some pics for the board.
 
finished inventory of all components
for the record, 46-1226 code 121 schematic is what i feel comfortable in saying 99% accurate for use in working on a code 125.

The largest difference is the filter capacitor section, the code 121 diagrams do not match what i have infront of me, that i can work around.
the wiring on the on/off switch does not match either.... one leg of my on/off sw lands on the rectifier V8 tube,, the schematic says otherwise.

Let me be clear though, i have  no evidence to prove that the reciever i am working on is infact a code 125.  I use code 125 because that is what the cabinet lable says.  Nothing on the reciever tells me i am a 46-1226 code 125.

i am providing pics to aid in a historical reference point of what components were original.  this one seems to be all origininal except for a couple of small issues.

i have removed the audio output transformer for access reasons.

there are two dozen compacitors that will be replaced.  Next i will lift, isolate and measure all resistors and pluck some replacements from my stock. 

One thing about the resistors i worry about is the wattage on "some" as they are very large or are being heat sync'd to the chassis. 

next up would be an OCP at the power chord entry point which i may mount on the top next to the large transformer for ease of access using a fast blow 3amp.  Just guessing right now on the ampacity requirements.

next is a polarized chord and to finally locate a small remote mounted isolation transformer i can phycially attach / hide inside the cabinet so it has its own onboard iso-xfrmr.

I can simply make my own by disecting wall wort power supplies , goodwill has lots of random power supplies and often i see two matching ones.
I did find two matching 120vac to 18.5vdc wall worts. i can simply put those two xfrmers back to back to make isolation,, they are both 450watt.
i can just delete the rectifier section , put both xfrmrs inside a project box and see how that plays out.
the diagrams dont tell me the unit power draw

[jcassity]

more pics, need to read on how to do multiple attachements in one post.. cant see the option in my clicks to make this happen.

[jcassity]

ahh i see now,
to add attachments i pick "new" attachment", to add more i pick "add" attachment. seems redundunt. It should read "add more attachments" or "additional attachments"

[jcassity]

Here is the inner guts of the filter capacitor.
My code 121 (incorrect set) says these are .01uf each,, unknown voltage.
i dont know what voltage caps to get.. help on this pls

also shown is the side view i can barely read.  I plan to insert new caps inside this container.

I took apart a couple IF Xfrmrs because i heard something rattling around inside.   Never had one apart before and found a loose Belleville washer.   In the navy if something didnt belong inside something else we called it FOD.
Has anyone any idea if it does look like a factory mistake and this part is fod?

Still waiting on my diagrams,, i think they will be here tomorrow.

[Arran]

For those of you who do not know FOD is an acronym for Foreign Object or Debris, although I've mostly heard that term used in relation to pieces of junk on the tarmac or runways of an airfield. It was a piece of FOD that fell off of a DC 10 that caused one of the French Concordes to burn and then crash.
Regards
Arran

[Steve Davis]

An isolation transformer is not necessary for a radio that has a power transformer. The power transformer automatically provides isolation. If your radio were a transformerless, AC/DC, with a hot chassis, you would want to use an isolation transformer at least while the chassis is out of the cabinet being serviced.

The capacitors you need for that block are, .01 "Y" rated safety capacitors.

Steve

[morzh]

I always power my radios through an IT while it is in restoration mode.
While Steve is correct in describing the power transformer function, the isolation might fail without the transformer stopping to function as transformer if it has no short turns or opens. However small is the chance, it might happen and it does happen, and I saw it happen, so I use IT on all my radios while working on them, and then when they are in cabinets and on the shelves, they get powered directly from outlet.

I'd rather be safe than sorry.

[jcassity]

the iso-transfromer is for my Hallicrafters S38d primarily.. putting one on this chassis is dumb now isnt it,, LOL.

[jcassity]

got my prints, working things out with chuck.

just for general conversation... and to add some respect for what all you guys deal with more often than what i have,,,
i find it totally amazing that the same part number and model could yield two toally different prints.

Just to recap,, I am a 46-1226 code 125 ***per the cabinet sticker.
This link here matches up 99%  **but*** it follows a code 121 layout.
http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Resources/588/M0013588.htm

I ask the questions here, go to the source for good information which i am very happy with, yet here is the confussing part.........
I requested code 125 info and got code 121,, (not busting balls here,, because i totally get the trivial task)

my point is i have a set of code 121, yet the prints i got in the mail are also "CODE 121" but a totally different radio.
all the stuff i got was for a 46-1226 code 121.

my code 121 stuff from nostalgia air illustrates a 8 tube system.
The prints i got in the mail illustrate a 9 tube system yet its pn & code are the same~~~!!!

moral to the story,,, have some respect for the guys who have been doing this for years,  
I have no idea how much pocket knowledge is required to even provide such information becoming now nearly a 100 years old.

second part to this update...........
Can anyone tell me if there is value in a serial number.
My reciever has no model or code number on it, it does have this number stamped on it which is 0234661


What i am attempting to clear up is
Am i a code 121 or a code 125?

I have yet to see any full wiring diagrams with Code 125 on them.

am i supposed to use "code 121" and refere to "code 125 updates only or what.?

[sam]

jcassity
first off if you are working things out with chuck
why say something here. keep it between you two

you say the sticker says 125  but the 121 matches what you have
may have the last of the 121 stuck in your cabinet to finish out production line

you said earlier the 121 not same  now you say it is?

sam