I have a 47-1230 code 121 and they didn't have this bakelite block, but a terminal strip with two mica caps. I don't know if the difference is due to different standards in Canada, different time in production, or what.
I am putting a picture, its not super clear but we can see them.
I'm a bit confused about safety caps, here's a pic of the ones I got, are they any good?
I'd be surprised if those are mica caps, but they could be. If so, they are probably ok. I know Micamold made some caps that looked like mica but were actually paper.
I'm not the best person to ask about safety caps...I have to research them every time I need to use them to make sure I get the correct type. But here's how I try to remember: X safety caps go across the line, just as the lines of the X are across each other. Since C100 and C101 each go from one side of the line to ground, I think you need Y type caps. Hopefully someone smarter than me can weigh in here. There is some decent info here: https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/technic...apacitors/
Just to clarify, in case you don't know, yours are marked X2, so they are the wrong type. Plus, they are the wrong value according to my schematic...they should be 0.01uF. You need something like this:
I think I got these from Just Radios, right there in Canada!
You're right, wrong value.
But I'm quite certain I had some Y caps of the correct value. No wonder I was confused by the markings on these! I thought I had a pair of one type and a pair of the other...
Anyway, I ordered new caps just now.
Thanks for posting details guys. Next time I'm confused about these I'll refer to this post...
-Mars
(This post was last modified: 10-16-2020, 01:19 PM by Marsupial.)
Quote:I really HATE leaving old components in place, but one of the caps was really buried and I couldn't even SEE the ground lead, let alone get cutters or a soldering iron on it. So after measuring it for my documentation I clipped the other lead completely off and stuffed it down into the chassis as far as I could and it'll have to stay there.
Thank you for the response, I have been scanning your threads on your 47-1230 restoration. Great job ,I hope to be as organized. So I have been cross referencing your spread sheet to the parts list and schematics.
My radio worked until the power transformer melted. I just replaced the power transformer and a small transformer for the audio tubes, since a direct replacement isn't available. I am now planning my attack on this beast, I mounted both transformers and started cleaning up the chassis. Now I plan on replacing all the paper caps. My question is what TYPE of capacitors to I order, Film ceramic, electrolyte ? and where should I order from?
I am planning on purchasing a Variac and putting in a fuse. I may look and the values of some of the resistor values too.
Hey Rich S - Sorry for the delay in responding. The paper caps should be replaced with film caps...polystyrene, polypropylene, polyester. I've been buying from Just Radios: https://www.justradios.com/cart.html Any of those in the left column of that page. I've also bought from Sal's in the past: http://www.tuberadios.com/capacitors/
Be aware that 630v caps will work for all the paper caps in this radio except C15 (Sams) which is a 1000v cap.
For the electrolytics I used to buy them from Just Radios, but have decided I want to use caps that I am certain are good quality (not saying that those on Just Radios are not good quality...I just want to be sure), so I've been buying mostly Nichicon or Rubycon electrolytics. My favorite source for them (and many other things) is Digi-Key: https://www.digikey.com/
It's my understanding that the power transformer ALWAYS runs hot in this set. Both of mine get quite hot. Initially I installed an 18 ohm 50W chassis mount voltage dropping resistor in the AC line to drop the line voltage to around 113v, but it got so hot that the entire chassis got hot and some of the paper caps started loosing their wax (I restuffed them in one set). So I designed and 3D printed a box to house a bucking transformer and mounted it next to the chassis inside the cabinet. I started discussing it midway through this thread on ARF: https://antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtop...g&start=20 This setup has a switch that allows me to switch from full power (usually around 122v for me), to about 114v, or to about 106v. This does help to cool the transformer some, but it still runs hot.
Rich, Thanks for the reply, So yea, I ordered from just radios and should get them soon. As for the power transformer, I had to order two separate transformers since there isn't a direct replacement. I posted on how I think it should be connected , so let me know what you think.
Thanks
Ps: missed that 1000v cap will have to add to the order.
Well, I've been following your posts about the transformer. I have a transformer from 47-1230 which I could not repair. I see you are going thru all this and I would like to offer you my transformer. I know you have purchased these other transformers but I hate to see you go all thru this rigging. I don't want anything for it, just pay for shipping. The 47-1230 is a very tough radio to repair, and would be glad to help you out. Bill
