04-12-2017, 12:19 PM
Ron has it except for a large variable concerning grain filler. It depends very much on what kind you use - all have drawbacks.
Por-o-pac type: Oil based filler (like clay). Can be brushed or troweled on and brushed off (excess). May be stained/tinted BUT! the tint will transfer to the bare wood causing darker/or different results than desired - fix: use lighter tint with careful application. Goes on best on bare wood - has trouble sticking to sealed wood, requiring more careful removal of excess.
Crystal-lac type: Water based filler (like old-school paste). Should be troweled on in multiple coats, since it shrinks (too). Should be applied on top of sealer NOT on top of finish lacquer since spraying of the top coat can wash the grain-filler out of the grain if applied on top of a finish coat. I have never felt the need to tint this stuff since it is clear UNLESS applied too thickly - in holes and such. Do not apply on bare wood.
There are other types/names, but all that I have found apply to one of the above types EXCEPT:
French polish type: No grain filler. Instead sanding sealer and finish coat lacquer is built up in many layers to fill the grain. Draw-backs: Much more experience is required with a LOT of careful sanding AND - since the finish WILL continue to shrink over months, it may take months to get it right. Beginners tend to get some or all of the finish too thick - especially with sanding sealer - resulting in cloudiness and/or cracking of the topcoat (lacquer finish needs to be thin) If you have troubles with BLUSH, this process can be a nightmare. NOT RECCOMENDED for RATTLE CAN applications. Long drying periods between coats/sanding required.
Toner can be applied after the grain filler is sealed.
Por-o-pac type: Oil based filler (like clay). Can be brushed or troweled on and brushed off (excess). May be stained/tinted BUT! the tint will transfer to the bare wood causing darker/or different results than desired - fix: use lighter tint with careful application. Goes on best on bare wood - has trouble sticking to sealed wood, requiring more careful removal of excess.
Crystal-lac type: Water based filler (like old-school paste). Should be troweled on in multiple coats, since it shrinks (too). Should be applied on top of sealer NOT on top of finish lacquer since spraying of the top coat can wash the grain-filler out of the grain if applied on top of a finish coat. I have never felt the need to tint this stuff since it is clear UNLESS applied too thickly - in holes and such. Do not apply on bare wood.
There are other types/names, but all that I have found apply to one of the above types EXCEPT:
French polish type: No grain filler. Instead sanding sealer and finish coat lacquer is built up in many layers to fill the grain. Draw-backs: Much more experience is required with a LOT of careful sanding AND - since the finish WILL continue to shrink over months, it may take months to get it right. Beginners tend to get some or all of the finish too thick - especially with sanding sealer - resulting in cloudiness and/or cracking of the topcoat (lacquer finish needs to be thin) If you have troubles with BLUSH, this process can be a nightmare. NOT RECCOMENDED for RATTLE CAN applications. Long drying periods between coats/sanding required.
Toner can be applied after the grain filler is sealed.
