[Chris h]

I just went thru my 37-116 code 122 this last winter.  I reluctantly chose to remove the RF sub-chassis, and in hind sight I am glad I did. There are several caps that are buried inside the band switch that even with removal of the sub-chassis are difficult to get to! I chose to cut one end free and leave them in place, placing the replacement outside the switch. Removal also allowed me to replace the rubber chassis mounts, and all interconnecting wiring. (Which was getting a little crispy.)  I did find a few connections that had never been soldered! The assembly quality left a little to be desired. Which surprised me a little. I was also able to get at, and replace a few OT resistors that I probably would not have found, otherwise. Checking and replacing components in the main chassis, directly behind the RF chassis, is also much easier with the sub-chassis removed.
I used my big Weller 100/250 watt soldering gun for the direct to chassis solder connections.  Much easier to handle and manipulate than my big "electric blowtorch" soldering iron, and made short work of the chassis connections. Especially with a new tip!
I took lots of pictures, printed them, and made notations on the prints, regarding where the wires and components were placed. I also labeled each interconnecting wire on both ends and noted them on the photos, along with the ROUTING! I won't pull anyone's leg and say it went off without a hitch. I did have one misswire, but was able to solve it without having to remove the sub-chassis again, thankfully!
Just take your time and don't rush it. Mine works well, and now sounds great. It was worth the effort. I might add that it was a dead chassis when I got it.