I need to remove the tuning from my 116X to replace the rubber bushings under it. Mounting screws have copper braid solder to them and access is kinda tight. Is there an easy way or do I just remove the tone switch, loosen the band switch and volume control? Also looking for recommendation on which bushings to order from RR.
TNX
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Similar problems exist in many radios, 16 I think is one of them.
Here's what I do to screws wih the braid soldered to thm: I rirst unsolder the braid with my iron set above 750F, then take the socket wrench and, right after heating the hex screw real well, ram the socket in trying to displace the solder, and keep wiggling it while pressing really hard, and repeat it until enough of the hex head is there for the socket to catch. When the screw is out, I might do it again as now that it is not screwed into the bulk of the cap, it is easier to heat it.
Light hammering the socket wrench onto the head helps too.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
I do something similar. Once the screw is out I heat the top with a pocket butane torch to liquify the solder and then just tap the screw - the solder drips off.
Tnx guys,
I got one of those pocket torches, didn't think of removing it's pointy tip.
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Tried ordering them but I couldn't finish because it would let me select a method of payment. Don't know if it is a separate operation.
Think I'm going to use some solder lugs instead if trying to solder to the 1/4" screw heads.
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
(This post was last modified: 07-21-2017, 06:46 PM by Radioroslyn.)
Sounds like a good idea on solder lugs. I just finished a Philco 44 the other day and soldered the braided wire back to the bolt heads. Gonna use your idea next time.
So I've been on the hunt for a large soldering gun and I found one, a Weller D-550. It's a earlier model the newer ones are 200/240w the older 240/325w. Had set my budget at $30. There are a bunch of them on ebay but most were $45+ shipping making the total abt $60.
Found a bit of a dirty one for $28 shipped and it had a new tip and spare (worth abt another $8). It came in the mail yesterday and I went to work on it. Looks to have been in the flood or two over the years so a good cleaning was in order. The lights weren't working, one of the lamps was burned out and both socket were split (brass fatigue). A quick wrap of copper wire around the top of the socket and a little solder, good as new. The tip was loose so it wasn't working seller had said that it didn't get very hot. Tighten it up and a dip in some Nocorrode. Tinned up nicely.
Now for the acid test will it get hot enough to unsolder that braid? Is the tip long enough to get down to the connection w/o burning up the surrounding components?? Passed with flying colors and made this job easy on the parts chassis. Now I have to get a certain 41-608 out of my way and onward to the 116X. Would recommend the D-550 for any of these hard to reach/ need a lot of heat jobs. Was reading on some other sites that it's a handy gun for soldering large coax connector and even brass radiator repair. Below is a pic of a Weller Jr (100W) and the D-550.
I have some standard grommets that should work well in this application.
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
I successfully use regular Weller with the 40W pencil to do that, and you have a monster that is likely above 100W, if not more. Sure it'll do the job.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
I didn't try the Jr as I thought it would be too short to clear the parts around the bolts. My little red pencil iron wouldn't be anywhere near hot enough, maybe if you had all day. With it's pointy tip not a lot of surface area to apply the heat with.
325W gets it done quick.
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
So back the the 116X. Have been using it for the last month or two and just putting off the few repairs it needs. But today is the day.
Removed the dial and the two speed drive mech. Took it down to the ball bearings cleaned it up and regreased it. Reassembly was a little tricky as I'm getting forgetful so took a few tries to get it back and set arrow mask/dial position.
Getting the braid off of the screw heads was easy, getting the screws out was a little difficult. Not too much room the work on them. Didn't have a long enough solder sucker to clean the head of the bolts so the nut driver wouldn't work. Was able to use a pair of needle nose visegrips to get two of them out. The third one I had to loosen it from the top being careful not to damage the threads so it wouldn't get stuck when it was all most out. Eventually got them all out cleaned up and chased the threads for easy installation.
Never did get the replacement grommets from Ed but found some at the hardware that worked nicely. Used a whole one to fit in the chassis hole split one half on top and half on the bottom to keep it centered. This gave me abt an 1/8'' crunch zone and held the tc in place.
Needed to take a little break but should have it back together tonight. There's note on the back of the chassis that states that it was service in '40. Somewhere someone added a phono jack to the back of the chassis which is a handy thing but it's mounted just below the power transformer. No shielding on the wires and I'm getting some hum so am going to replace these wires w/some rg-174 (shielded wire) to hear if that helps. The hum isn't bad but it would be better if it wasn't there.
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
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