09-10-2017, 07:59 AM
Year 41 radios are very similar underneath the chassis. I have just finished a 41-280.
Mostly loctal tubes and rubber-insulated wiring.
I got lucky, my wiring did not need change, still very pliable abd not at all crumbling. If you are this lucky, your job will be 25% of what you otherwise will have to go through, which is full rewiring plus the rest.
What others said, ditto that.
Almost all lictal tubes willhave oxydized pins, a blackish film forms over and precludes contact, so before testing the tubes, scrape the pins well with an exacto blade or do something else to remove the oxydation.
See if the wires inside are good. If you see cracking or crumbs, have to rewire. Deoxit the switches.
Clean the chassis, just Windex or alcohol is sufficient. If the tuning cap grommets are still soft (mine were) - just blow the cap with a canned air and ribse with any electronic cleaner, like Blue Shower. If not, will have to replace grommets.
Start somewhere. It'll sructure itself out somehow, abd we will be helping by answering questions.
Welcome!
Mostly loctal tubes and rubber-insulated wiring.
I got lucky, my wiring did not need change, still very pliable abd not at all crumbling. If you are this lucky, your job will be 25% of what you otherwise will have to go through, which is full rewiring plus the rest.
What others said, ditto that.
Almost all lictal tubes willhave oxydized pins, a blackish film forms over and precludes contact, so before testing the tubes, scrape the pins well with an exacto blade or do something else to remove the oxydation.
See if the wires inside are good. If you see cracking or crumbs, have to rewire. Deoxit the switches.
Clean the chassis, just Windex or alcohol is sufficient. If the tuning cap grommets are still soft (mine were) - just blow the cap with a canned air and ribse with any electronic cleaner, like Blue Shower. If not, will have to replace grommets.
Start somewhere. It'll sructure itself out somehow, abd we will be helping by answering questions.
Welcome!
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