05-18-2018, 11:24 AM
With any stripper the first thing is to read the instructions and determine how its neutralized. In the video, he does mention that the klean strip he uses is a water neutralized product. Some methylene chloride strippers are water neutralized, others are solvent neutralized, he's using lacquer thinner to finish stripping because he's not stripping all the finish with the stripper, frankly, I think that cat been inhaling too many fumes.
My favorite stripper that I've used is an Old Masters product called TM-4, it's water neutralized. The worst I've had to use of this type stripper is the most commonly available product called Zip-Strip. Their anti-evaporators are waxy and can remain behind in the wood and it will be a problem during finishing and shows up as fisheyes.
With that being typed, here's a key thing to stripping, washing after the stripper. I've always used a TSP substitute in a warm water dilution followed by a cold water rinse. The can be problematic for radio cabinets if you're trying this at home without much stripping experience as too much water will wreck the thin ply construction of most cabinets.
The TSP is what will remove the stains in the woods if it was stained, it is even somewhat effective on old berry based stains. Of course that isn't a problem with Philco's because they're finished in toned lacquers which is essentially just a paint job.
Plenty of (cotton) rags for each step, nylon bristle scrub brushes for the TSP wash and final rinse, and some towels to help dry the piece after rinsing. Work fast and efficiently to avoid damage to the ply. It is not easy, but when done right it's a beautiful thing, the piece will look like brand new wood before you even begin filling and sanding.
I have yet to find a useful purpose for the citrus based strippers.
My favorite stripper that I've used is an Old Masters product called TM-4, it's water neutralized. The worst I've had to use of this type stripper is the most commonly available product called Zip-Strip. Their anti-evaporators are waxy and can remain behind in the wood and it will be a problem during finishing and shows up as fisheyes.
With that being typed, here's a key thing to stripping, washing after the stripper. I've always used a TSP substitute in a warm water dilution followed by a cold water rinse. The can be problematic for radio cabinets if you're trying this at home without much stripping experience as too much water will wreck the thin ply construction of most cabinets.
The TSP is what will remove the stains in the woods if it was stained, it is even somewhat effective on old berry based stains. Of course that isn't a problem with Philco's because they're finished in toned lacquers which is essentially just a paint job.
Plenty of (cotton) rags for each step, nylon bristle scrub brushes for the TSP wash and final rinse, and some towels to help dry the piece after rinsing. Work fast and efficiently to avoid damage to the ply. It is not easy, but when done right it's a beautiful thing, the piece will look like brand new wood before you even begin filling and sanding.
I have yet to find a useful purpose for the citrus based strippers.
