[Ron Ramirez]

Woo hoo, I don't mind missing out on the computers now...I just bought a late 1935 version 16B for $190...

Sorry for the off-topic post, I just had to share my good news.

[Chuck Schwark]

They have shots for the 16-itis Virus now . . . .

[Ron Ramirez]

I'd rather have 16-itis than Zenith Walton-itis...

The Zenith Walton-itis vaccine costs ten to twenty times as much and is nowhere near as effective.

[jepstr67]

Wow Ron! You Rock!

Now I have to keep up my end and go buy some parts!

Thanks,

Todd

[scottwkurth]

I decided to take some time and put together a partial schematic of the 38-40 showing the Pbpix mod to add a 1/8" stereo jack (see below).

Full credit for this mod goes to Peter G. Balazsy, with his permission. I only redrew a 38-40 schematic below to show how Peter's mod can be used on a 38-40.

Ron - now that I have an operational 40-185 my next todo is to install an aux input for my iPod. I read through the thread you pointed to earlier and spent some time looking at the modified schematic you posted for the 38-40. The self-closing Radio Shack plug seems to make this a fairly simple modification, eliminating the need to add a selector switch to restore the circuit to its original design.

Looking at the schematic for my 40-185, I'm a little bit stuck on exactly where to break the circuit. On which side of cap #38 should i install the jack - where the red dot is or the blue? My theory is that it should be where the red dot is so that the cap provides some protection for the iPod as mentioned on the other forum, but I can't say that I can really defend that scientifically.

Thoughts or advice?

Note from site admin: Sorry, but the photo which was attached to this post is no longer available.

[Radioroslyn]

Go with the blue dot. Great to hear you got the old girl up and running !!
Terry

[Ron Ramirez]

I have to agree with Terry, I like the blue dot better as the place to break the circuit for the jack.

Congratulations on getting your 40-185 up and running!

[scottwkurth]

I put the aux input jack in yesterday and had mixed results. Most disappointingly, the jack doesn't seem to fully break the connection back to the radio portion and leaks signal through when there is a plug inserted. Hearing sports talk radio in the backround behind Sinatra is not what I was hoping for. I'm trying to get a higher quality replacement than what was available at Radio Shack.

The other problem is with output levels. There seems to be some impedance mismatch between the iPod and the radio as I have to turn up the volume to the max to have even low volume output. Admittedly, right now I'm technically using the headphone jack off my iPod and my final installation will be using a line level output from a different device, so things will change slightly. Has anyone else attempted this modification and succeeded in solving this problem? I'm not really sure where to begin.

[Radioroslyn]

Have used a small transformer to match the Z. It isn't very critical as I used a 115v/24v transformer and it worked great! 24v side the to Ipod / 115v side to the amp.
Terry

[Texasrocker]

I have added CD/ Ipod type inputs to a few different brands of tube type radios over the years with mixed results as/ per customer requests. The audio quality doesnt always sound that good anyways after all the hassel. To keep the radio signals out, you will have to add a switch to break the radio circuit where you input the signal thru the amplifier sections only. Since portable Ipods & portable CD players have their own volume controls, you can bypass the radios controls and use the volume of the Ipod to control the volume. In many cases however, your mixing apples & oranges to try to get a distortion free signal due to impedance mismatches, it's really not worth the trouble for the sound quality that any radio produces from the getgo, nomatter Console or tabletop types. A LPAM transmitter would be the best solution as others have suggested, and keep the radio chassis original.AES sells a LPAM kit as many others offered on the internet. I have a home brew 12 watter plate modulated rig here that does about 10-20 miles ( depending on antenna & radials testing) using a 6L6 or 6550 in the final, but it's not street legal! Last time I played around with it, I custom-wound a loose-coupled tank circuit and it would tune up anywhere from about 950- 1600 khz, and the RF output will light up a neon bulb laying on the other end of my workbench. It has great tone quality also over the air! Can drive around many miles, and the signal rivals local AM stations (daytime) Nightime, the other stronger stations limit it to about 2 miles or so. Still tweeking it when I have spare time. I have a ol-timer USN retired radio tube- tech helping me with it. We have fun here playing with transmitters indeed, but dont fire it up very often for obvious reasons.

[jerryhawthorne]

Don't add extra inputs to any of my radios. Just run a small power SSTRANS transmitter and I can push FM, CDs and my i-pod signals to any radio in the house without modifying them. Of course, if you only have one radio, perhaps not the most cost effective solution. Perhaps 100 bucks.
Jerry

[w4rtc]

You got it Jerry
I have been using a SSTRANS for about two years and it works perfect. It has good coverage and it has very good sound I use it connected to a computer and run old time radio 24/7. You can plug stereo devices in also and it comes out mono perfect.
Joe

[Arran]

I actually just removed an MP3 player jack from a Westinghouse Columaire 8 radio that a fellow brought me to repair, for one thing there isn't a spot for the jack anymore after replacing the aftermaket IF can with a factory correct one. The owner told me that it never did work properly, and no surprise there, the volume control in this set does not work like a set of a few years newer, it works by changing the cathode bias on the RF, Ist detector, and IF amplifier tubes. In any event he doesn't care about the jack, he's going to get one of those part 15 type transmitters so he doesn't have to screw around plugging the MP3 player into the set directly.
Personally I don't like aftermarket jacks added to radios, I've run into to many amatuerish installation jobs of adding an RCA phono jack to a sets that never had a phono input and always remove them. It's easy enough to find sets that had a phono input straight from the factory to bother trying to make someone's hack job work or messing with the audio circuits of a radio. If you want such an input to work it must be tied into the volume control/avc circuits in the proper way with shielded cable, coupling caps, etc otherwise you will get a load of AC hum and static coming through. It is also unnecessary to drill holes in the chassis to accept an input jack, the jack can be mounted on a plate attaeched to the back of the cabinet fed by a shielded cable going through an existing hole in the chassis.
Regards
Arran

[jerryhawthorne]

Aaron, I agree, I don't like adding external inputs to radios that don't have one. If they don't, my SSTRANS handles anything I want. If they do (phono or television) I make up a small external box to velcro to the back of the unit which contains the caps to couple the two stereo inputs together and a plug for my ipod that I move around as necessary. Sound is certainly better but then again, it is only two Scotts that I have done this to. Both have inputs. No messing with shielded cable inside the receiver or matching. Just works well. No messing with the inside of the receiver. JMHO Jerry

[Tondi007]

Thanks for this thread. I've inherited a number of antique radios and want to update a great sounding 42-1006 to include a aux jack. I've been fumbling around with the schematics and after a failed attempt to install the Radio Shack jack to the vol pot. (same jack you're using -- forgot the part number), I ran across this thread.

I am new to this but tried to identify where to break the circuit. Could someone confirm that I'm on the right path -- Or put me on the right one? One thing I'm confused about is were to but the ground. Also, there is a 3-pin jack on the back of the 42' model. Perhaps that would be easier to access.

I've posted the schematic below and marked my best guess where to break the circuit. The resolution is poor so it is also available here: http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel...013486.pdf

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