Posts: 7,215
Threads: 266
Joined: Dec 2009
City: Roslyn Pa
Good. To answer your question about blow caps in the power supply. The power supply seems to be working fine. The bias voltage is a little high but nothing to worry about. So how about the voltage on pin 2 of the detector amp?
Terry
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
Posts: 217
Threads: 40
Joined: Dec 2009
Ok if iam on #2 pin not sure from chassi 15 volts . pins are a little off set from your drawing.
Please be patient teaching me alot . Starting to understand schematic ect.
Thanks Denver
Posts: 7,215
Threads: 266
Joined: Dec 2009
City: Roslyn Pa
I took a pic of a real 5 pin tube and number the pins for you. This should you a little better idea of how to count them. I'm very patient I just hope don't have as many posts as Ron's total before where done with this set . If you were on pin 2 the voltage is a little low should be about +35V. Check resistors #44, 500K, # 46, 250K & #51, 25K for proper value. While I was drive around today I had a thought,it doesn't happen often but tell me what is the resistance from the antenna connection the chaiss. You may have an open winding on the antenna coil, It's common of early Philco's
Terry
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
Posts: 217
Threads: 40
Joined: Dec 2009
Ok pin #2 - 37 #44 514 omhs #46 260k ohms #51 24k ohms resitance anttena is 28 omhs .This is touching chassi and wire to anntena .
thanks for pics helps alot.
Denver
Posts: 217
Threads: 40
Joined: Dec 2009
Checked all resitors checked good .Decided to check volume pot 60 volts turn 1/4 turn 0 volts
denver
Posts: 7,215
Threads: 266
Joined: Dec 2009
City: Roslyn Pa
I posted this morning but I must have hit the wrong key as I don't see it here on the forum. Things are tougher after 35 and way back in my rear view mirror.
OK pin #2 - 37 #44 514 ohms #46 260k ohms #51 24k ohms resistance antenna is 28 ohms .This is touching chassis and wire to antenna .
thanks for pics helps a lot.
Denver
To be clear, if you have a #37 tube in this set it will not work well. A # 37 is a 6.3 volt version of the #27 it will fit dandy but with only less than 1/2 the filament voltage on it the gain will be very low. #44 should be 500,000 ohms or 500K. K=times 1000. Not 500 ohms or .5K. Antenna coil resistance seem right, if it was a few 1000 ohms then I'd say it's open. -60vdc at the volume control is fine. It comes right off the bias voltage for the 45's control grid's.
Here's something else to try. Take your antenna wire and hook it to the grid cap of the #24A rf amp tube. Does this make an improvement on how loud it plays when the set is on and tuned to a station.? Do the same to the grid cap on the 24A mixer tube. Any difference?
Was visiting a radio friend and we got talking about your set and I was telling him that it would be handy if you had a signal generator. I gave me a spare he had. It's no great prize made about 1940.It's a Precision Model E-200C I had one just like it and used it for years. Generator tunes from 50KC to 120MC. If you want it I'm more than happy to give it to you. Let me know and I'll check it over to make sure it's working properly. Would like shipping cost covered. I may be able to dig up a manual for it too. Just PM me and we'll do it if you want.
Next installment we'll check the plate and screen voltage on the rf,mixer,&if tubes. By the time we get this beast work you'll be the next super tech!!
Terry
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
Posts: 217
Threads: 40
Joined: Dec 2009
Ok should of said -37 volts
Please give me till tommorw after noon.
yea 35 is in review for me too .
Thanks alot Denver
Posts: 7,215
Threads: 266
Joined: Dec 2009
City: Roslyn Pa
As always no rush. Took a quick look and found the manual on line. This manual is for a new version of the one I have but it's basically the same. I
http://bama.edebris.com/manuals/paco/e200c/ it's a good manual as it show you how to use it and do some troubleshooting.
Terry
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
Posts: 217
Threads: 40
Joined: Dec 2009
Well thanks to you a great radio man i didnt know anything about old radios. but with your great patents i started under standing a little.
Last night i started checking a few things .This radio has local distant range switch suppose to check everything in local mode .
I decided to swith it picks up alot better volume much better to. Then after it got good and warmed up it would just quit .receving.
So i keep looking noticed filament voltage on 1st rf tube was not right had a extra , so i changed it so far doin good.
St
ill has a buzz when volume is down is this normal? Iwill pm you on gen.
THANK YOU SO MUCH Denver.
Posts: 7,215
Threads: 266
Joined: Dec 2009
City: Roslyn Pa
Great! I'm glad to help get it working and share a little experiences I had over the years. We all had to start somewhere with someone who we willing teach us newbies a thing or two. I was lucky as it was my dad.
Hummmmm ? Well I'd try hooking an 20 to 40mfd @ 450V electrolytic cap from points C (going to the + side of the cap) and point D (going to the - side of the cap). Also having a good ground may help. A little bit of hum would be normal.
On your rf amp tube may just need to clean the socket. My model 70 chairside had a similar problem with the 27 the in the oscillator. It would play for a while then die. The filament would go out.
I was wondering if it had local/distance switch. The printed diagram I was using is kinda small. Now that you mention it I see it on the primary of the first if transformer. Haven't seen many Philcos with a L/D switch.
Terry
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
Posts: 217
Threads: 40
Joined: Dec 2009
THANK YOU LEFT YOU A PM ill try this.
Posts: 7,215
Threads: 266
Joined: Dec 2009
City: Roslyn Pa
Here the correct polarities for those condensers. Sorry can't seem to get camera to work. Will try later. Off to work.
Terry
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
Posts: 217
Threads: 40
Joined: Dec 2009
Ok i checked # 9 #10 to #3 polarites arrows to #3 . For some reason #3 to #10 keeps shorting .It shows #1 & 2 to #11 # 4, 5, 6, and 7 to #11.
And #8 to #9 with a 0.15uf @ 1000 VOLTS SPRAGUE. On terminals #1 and 2 are wired together #8 and #10 together. Also #3 to#5 tied together .
Checked every wire in radio none touching. What little i know about radios lost.
THANKS Denver.
