Posts: 3,105
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Joined: Apr 2011
City: Lexington, KY
Mike, your Scott is quite impressive!
Quote: I just pray that when I'm gone my foster son finds them a good home, or sells them to someone who will want them.
LOL, I tell my buddies when I pass not to let me family think my box of new grille cloth is a bunch of worthless scraps...same with my knob and tube stash. There's three of us collectors who have agreed to help each others family dispose of their collection, but pity the poor guy who passes last...
John KK4ZLF
Lexington, KY
"illegitimis non carborundum"
(This post was last modified: 02-05-2021, 08:37 AM by Eliot Ness.)
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City: Sneedville, TN
I have been exchanging emails with Hayseed Hamfest regarding making the reproduction can condensers for my Scott. I sent them the full specs for C148, C156, C157, and C158 as they appear in the parts list in the manual, as well as the JPG of the schematic and the photo I took of these four condensers from inside the chassis to show the connections. Their communication has been excellent ! The prices they quoted for making these custom can condensers were quite reasonable to my way of thinking. I am awaiting an invoice with a payment link, and hope to have these in a few weeks.
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Joined: Oct 2011
City: Jackson, NJ
Mike
What are they, about $40 apiece?
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
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Joined: Oct 2017
City: Allendale, MI
I re-stuffed the lytics on mine. Used Nichicons as I recall.
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Joined: Jul 2014
City: Sneedville, TN
The two single condenser cans are $32.95 each and the double condenser cans are $33.95 each. Shipping to me will be $9.50. I know that may seem steep to some people, but this gives me un-molested new can condensers, I don't have to cut open and re-stuff anything, and, having seen their work before, I am sure they will be correct in dimensions and as close to the originals as they can make them. I consider the cost very reasonable. The versions they make a lot of are less expensive. These are one of a kind at present, completely custom. It is great to have a resource like them.
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Joined: Sep 2005
City: Ferdinand
State, Province, Country: Indiana
Not bad for custom made new manufacture twist-lok cans, no, not at all.
My Fisher TA-600 has Hayseed Hamfest twist-loks in it. They are good people. 
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
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City: Sneedville, TN
J found out the original antenna plug which mates with the connector on the back of this radio is a Navy type 49121 connector.
[Image: https://64.media.tumblr.com/a1a0edecdee4...112f63.jpg]
These are now virtually unobtainable, so, although it may upset the purists, and it pains me to do it, I am going to replace the original connector with an SO-239. The mate for these, the PL-259 is readily available, and these types have been standard antenna connectors for years.
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City: Sneedville, TN
I was a lucky boy today. Several parts came in, among them the SO-239s I ordered. I removed the original antenna jack and replaced it with an S)-239... here are pictures, first inside the chassis, then the back of the chassis from the outside...
[Image: https://64.media.tumblr.com/0b6ccd98feac...4c4e67.jpg]
[Image: https://64.media.tumblr.com/2729e46eea99...6c72e7.jpg]
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City: Sneedville, TN
I don't have much more to do on this radio until I get the new electrolytics for it. I put the cover back over the antenna inlet section and tested the tubes. They were all OK. I think most were the original tubes since they had the JAN numbers and markings and the military as well as civilian tube numbers. Wednesday, when I go into Morristown I am going to buy a cheap 18/3 SJT extension cord to connect to the power inlet connector. That is about the last thing I will have left to do before I do the electrolytics.
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How does that old saying go? "When in doubt, READ THE INSTRUCTIONS !" Well, I printed out the entire manual for my Scott SLRM, and have read it through. I found that, if people actually READ the manual, there should be no controversy about whether one should use an isolation transformer with this radio. Here are the pertinent sections of the manual :
[Image: https://64.media.tumblr.com/02a33b074349...114b3f.jpg]
[Image: https://64.media.tumblr.com/2538de6fccb8...482f66.jpg]
[Image: https://64.media.tumblr.com/c38432848d00...184922.jpg]
So, there you have it. If your house outlets are properly polarized, and you connect the inlet connector properly, you should not need an isolation transformer. I DO in fact have the original, proper power input connector to mate with the socket on the back of this radio, and it is clearly labelled with 1, 2, and 3 for the terminals. So, black, or hot, the narrow blade of the plug, goes to 1, the white, or neutral, the wider blade of the plug, goes to 3, and the shield, or ground, goes to 2.
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City: Allendale, MI
Thankfully, my SLRM also has the original power plug. Makes it "safe". To be sure, I measured all AC voltages from house ground to chassis etc.
(This post was last modified: 02-08-2021, 11:53 PM by rfeenstra.)
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City: Sneedville, TN
Today when I was in Morristown I went by Harbor Freight and bought a cheap 16 gauge 3 wire extension cord. I cut off the female end, and wired it to the plug which mates with the power inlet, the original, and checked to make sure it was wired correctly, that the black lead did indeed go to the "hot" blade for the wall outlet, the white to the neutral, and the green to the grounding pin. I then wired it as the manual says to, with the hot to terminal one of the connector, the neutral to pin 3, and the ground to pin two.
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City: Sneedville, TN
I didn't have anything more to do on my Scott until my condensers come in from Hayseed Hamfest, so today I took a picture of the contractor's plate on my SLRM to share with y'all. It's serial number 2446[Image: https://64.media.tumblr.com/e2ca3990adb3...7f9a8b.jpg]
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Tonight, just for fun, and to chase away some boredom, I replaced the two "dead man" condensers which go across the power inlet to ground. I removed the double condenser can which held them and replaced it with two new Y condensers on a 3 terminal strip. Afterward I tested the old condensers and found they are reading almost EXACTLY what they are supposed to be. This makes me feel better about all the rest of the "paper" condensers in the set, all of which are hermetically sealed in oil filled cans as these were. I would like to leave them as is. Anyway, here's what the new condensers look like installed, compare the picture to The one I posted earlier of that end of the receiver.
[Image: https://64.media.tumblr.com/2a9a220eea69...170301.jpg]
[Image: https://64.media.tumblr.com/efc925d590fe...b25b72.jpg]
Posts: 1,824
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City: Sneedville, TN
Today the 4 condensers I ordered from Hayseed Hamfest finally arrived. They were mailed on the 16th. There was a tracking number, but after it left their local post office there were no more scans of it along the way until it arrived today, then other scans magically appeared. I think the USPS was playing CYA.
I had to go to Morristown today for my eye treatment for macular degeneration. When I got back I began to replace the original electrolytic condenser cans. Much to my chagrin I found that the ones from Hayseed Hamfest were just a HAIR too big to fit through the hole in the chassis, and three of the four barely fit into the original clamp, the fourth didn't fit at all. I checked the specifications I sent them, which were exactly what is listed in the bill of materials in the Scott manual. They made them with a diameter just a little too big. The original spec for the three was 1 3/8" diameter, in other words 1.375", these were between 1.450 and 1.5" Fortunately I was able to fit these into the original clamp, with the clamping screw hanging on by about 3 threads, and keeping them raised a hair from the chassis top was able to use them. The terminals cleared OK. The fourth one was similarly over the specified size, but was so much bigger that it could not fit in the clamp, so I didn't use it. Instead I mounted a 20MFD 450V condenser on a 3 terminal strip, and screwed it under the chassis using one of the original screws that held the clamp.
Once all the condensers were installed there was nothing left to do but try the radio out. I hooked it up, and it works very well. I am able to pick up a LOT of stations on just my test antenna at my workbench. I still have a little more to do, clean the band switch contacts and other contacts but the radio actually works very well. So, here are pictures of today's work...
First, the four condenser cans before installation
[Image: https://64.media.tumblr.com/34ff199b2cca...eea753.jpg]
The electrolytics replaced, under chassis view
[Image: https://64.media.tumblr.com/ddbcb2457a7f...4408ce.jpg]
The electrolytics replaced top of chassis view
[Image: https://64.media.tumblr.com/c979e1c616b3...83f602.jpg]
My Scott SLRM alive and working on my workbench
[Image: https://64.media.tumblr.com/fb3c89adaf3f...636534.jpg]
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