Posts: 19
Threads: 2
Joined: Jul 2012
City: Perkasie, PA
I'm working on a Model 116 and need to remove the 1st IF can to replace the bad grid wire. It looks like all
three cans are physically connected together and I can't see any easy way to get them off the chassis.
Anyone have this problem before and have a solution?
Thanks
Chuck
Posts: 7,215
Threads: 266
Joined: Dec 2009
City: Roslyn Pa
All three come off as one unit as they are welded together. Unscrew the two screws per can on top. On the bottom there are two per can squeeze fasteners. Get all that loose and the cans jump right off!
GL
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
Posts: 19
Threads: 2
Joined: Jul 2012
City: Perkasie, PA
Thanks
I figured that was the way, but just wanted verification
Chuck
Posts: 7,215
Threads: 266
Joined: Dec 2009
City: Roslyn Pa
Philco did make a tool to release those clips, p/n 45-2146 listed in the '38 parts catalog.
Older sets used sheet metal screws to mount the base of the coil covers down.
I think you could use a small deep well socket maybe 3/16" on a straight handle. If you press that over the end of the clip to compress it enough to release. Would use something like some nickles and masking tape to slip under the edge the can and tape the nickle to the chassis so it won't re-clip it self.
I did it with pliers but it was pretty frustrating and ended up breaking some of the clips.
Great set! Is it a X or a B?
Good Luck!
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
Posts: 19
Threads: 2
Joined: Jul 2012
City: Perkasie, PA
I'm guessing it's a B, no identifying labels on the chassis my customer just gave me the chassis and speaker to restore.
I was looking for a schematic that matches the wiring on this chassis. This one has the later(?) detector circuit and volume control
and has the second AVC line to control the suppressor grids of the RF and 1st IF tube, but they also connect to a
fixed -2.4V tap on the divider resistor. Was this another change in the design? I removed the fixed -2.4V connection and the sensitivity got
better (recovers good audio down to 5uV @ 18MHz) and appears to help quite a bit on very high RF inputs, tested up to 5,000uV.
Chuck
Posts: 7,215
Threads: 266
Joined: Dec 2009
City: Roslyn Pa
There's 2 versions of the 116B an early and late. Early uses a 10 1/2" spkr the late an 8'' spkr. The 116X uses the same chassis but instead of the p/p 42's it uses p/p 6A3's, bigger pt and rectifier tube. Spkr is 14" or so.
The 116B is aka the code 121. Didn't disistinguish between early and late. And the 116X is aka code 122. The only service revisions I could find were in the Riders, Philco lists a bulletin #222 but we don't have it in the library. Pretty sure the rf,IF and det stages are the same between the two sets just audio stages and p/s are the difference.
5uv @ 18MC sounds good for this old guy! Any of the 16's or 116's are great players! When rebuilt properly.
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
(This post was last modified: 07-01-2021, 10:38 AM by
Radioroslyn.)
