Greetings everyone, I just picked up yesterday a 1948 Magnavox "Berkeley" Model 134B and the cabinet is in mostly good condition (it has some dings and chips in the Mahogany cabinet) and it has all of the original Ken-Rad branded tubes in the radio (date codes on the tubes are mid 1947 and early 1948 which would be consistent with the radio being a 1948 model year unit) it also has its original 2-speed (33 1/3 and 78 RPM) record changer yet too.
I need repair the turntable audio cable as the original turntable audio cable was replaced at one point in time and they plugged it into the FM Tuner's audio plug input for some reason.
I would like to see if I could get the optional FM Tuner Assembly to install in my unit but I'm not sure where or how I would locate one of those.
I need to replace the power cord for sure and some other stuff on it but I can't seem to figure out how to get the chassis out of the cabinet, there are a couple of machine screws on the back that are accessible from the top side but when I removed them the chassis didn't seem to want to budge, so I checked underneath and sure enough there seems to be 4 bolts underneath but I can't seem to get them loose, plus I'm not sure if this chassis comes out from the front of the cabinet or the back of the cabinet, the way it looks, it looks like it should come out from the front, but I'm not sure.
It appears that the two screws at the back of the chassis are a sort of 'locator' to adjust the face clearance at the front of the cabinet. Once it has been centered the screws (notice the elongated screw cut-outs) would be tightened to hold it in position. The four screws underneath would then be tightened to lock the chassis into position. The four screws underneath are very probably sheet metal threads tightened into pressed screw anchors built into the chassis sides. They mostly rely on friction fit between the threads and the screw anchors. Over the years these can sort of "weld" themselves to each other due to humidity, dirt, and corrosion. I would suggest if they are hex head to use the correct socket (preferably a six-point socket) and a breaker-bar of some sort to apply steady pressure. The screws should break free with a little effort. Once out the works should slide out from the back. Keep us posted on your progress. Take care and BE HEALTHY! Gary
"Don't pity the dead, pity the living, above all, those living without love."
Professor Albus Dumbledore
Gary - Westland Michigan
Alright thanks will do. A quick Question, how hard is it to find a FM Tuner Sub-Chassis for this radio? I'm asking because I would love to try and find one and install it inside this radio so I can also listen to FM radio as well on here besides AM and SW.
I got the radio chassis out, the two phillips bit screws on the back of the top side of the chassis had to be removed and then the chassis slid out through the back.
The chassis is all original yet, nothing has been changed on it (all original caps and resistors and tubes) and not a spot of rust or corrosion on the chassis anywhere.
The only visible chage/alteration I could see made to the unit was that someone changed out the original record player output plug at some point in time but that's pretty minor in the overall scheme of things.
I'd love to find an FM tuner Sub-chassis for this radio if at all possible.
See picture below for the radio chassis underside.
So I've checked the record changer mechanism, and the motor mounting grommets were dry rotted on this unit and I'm not sure what kind of motor mounting grommets this is supposed to use, does anyone here know what types of motor mounting grommets this record changer uses?
I figured out the type of motor mounting grommets that the changer used and replaced them and it works as intended now.
I just need the correct audio plug for the record changer as the origial one (which was a round 2 prong unit with one prong larger in diameter than the other.)
I know, neither have I, the set actually works really well yet without a recap surprisingly enough.
I have a feeling that this set was not used much by its original owners (possibly it was just a display piece and only used for special occasions.)
the only issue is that the original phono audio jack (which was a 2-pin paxolin style plug) was replaced with a 4-pin paxolin style plug and then plugged into the "FM" jack (which was a 4-pin paxolin socket) which wouldn't work because the record player wouldn't get any power in FM mode unless you powered it off the "Aux Power Socket" on the back which was specifically for the FM Tuner, so I'm on the hunt for a proper 2-pin paxolin style plug to attach to the record player audio output wire so I can get the record player working on it again.
I'm asking because I've noticed that there appears to be a Bias Cell Holder (battery holder) underneath this unit, and if so, what kind of battery needs to be installed, and would it hurt this radio to run it without that bias cell installed?
See picture below.
(This post was last modified: 04-05-2022, 03:47 PM by captainclock1988.)
Not a bias cell holder but it is a ceramic trimmer capacitor. Usually those type are small value of just a few mmfd up to about 45mmfd.
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
This radio is actually working as is without any capacitors being replaced in it, unfortunately the 6J5 tube for the AF Amp stage became microphonic (it was unfortunate because every tube in this radio was original to this radio, I also had to replace the original tuning eye tube because it was so dim that it couldn't be seen anymore, unfortunately the 6U5 tubes are getting kind of expensive now, even though they are the most common of the tuning eye tubes.
