[DavidK]

I recently acquired this unit (see attachments) too and want to know where best to get insight and assistance for it.  The turntable is missing a few key drive parts.

[MrFixr55]

Hi Daved, U must have gotten a "twofer"  Schematic below.  This is also a rather neat radio, as it has several shortwave bands, and the push-pull 41s will put out a rather clean 5 watts.

Coronado was the house brand of the Gamble-Skogmo department store chain.  The radio is likely built by Detrola Radio and TV, Wells Gardiner, Belmont or Arvin.  Based on the circuit, I am betting Detrola.  The radio was likely from the upper Midwest.  Not the radio stations that start with K (west of Mississippi River) and C (Canada) as well as W (east of Mississippi River)

Schematic below (Courtesy of Nostalgia Air):

Coronodo 43-7651.pdf Size: 290.75 KB  Downloads: 80

Like stated in my post about your GE, please ensure that you replace all capacitors, especially the electrolytic filter caps.
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[b]DavidK[/b] 
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[b]#1[/b]

1 hour ago
I recently acquired this unit (see attachments) and want to know where best to get insight and assistance for it.  The bonus was it came with two small USA flags (with 48 stars in the blue field), two Wheat Pennies, and 3 records (including a very thick Edison and another one that is probably on the Banned LP List).   [Image: https://philcoradio.com/phorum/images/sm...on_shh.gif]


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[b]David[/b] 
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[b]#2[/b]

1 minute ago
Nice looking set will link to some info. Check the pennies dates might have some value  http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Resources/641/M0007641.htm.

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[b]MrFixr55[/b] 
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[b]#3[/b]

Less than 1 minute ago
Hi David 

This is a rather neat Unit.  This is likely equipped with a GE "RPX" Phono Cartridge.  This was the next best thing to a true "Hi Fi" cartridge in the late 1940s. IMHO, this cartridge performs much better than a crystal or ceramic cartridge.  I have not heard the Philco BOL (Beam of Light) cartridge but it, too, shoud have lower distortion than a crystal or ceramic cartridge.  Stylus for this cartridge are still available.  I do not know whether your turntable is 78RPM or 3 speed (or 4 Speed).  Post a pic for it.  Magnetic cartridges of this vintage put a smaller signal than crystal or ceramic cartridges, hence, they require a preamplifier.  The upside down chassis below the radio chassis is the phono preamp.

Interestingly, the first electronic phono pickups back in the late 20s / early 30s were also magnetic. They put out a higher signal, but were very heavy and still used the same steel needles as the original victor diaphragm "sound box" acoustic pickup.

The Edison record will fit the turntable, and you can likely hear the record faintly at the turntable but will not hear sound from the speaker.  that is because Edison records do not move the needle left and right, they move the needle up and down.  Victor, Columbia and everyone else move the needle left and right. I am ot sure if this was to get around Edison patents. In addition, the Edison "sound box" had a saphire needle that was much more advanced than the Victor steel needles and tracked somewhat lighter. (The Victor put the full weight of the swivel portion of the tone arm and the sound box on the record.

Attached below is the schematic for this Unit, courtesy of Nostalgia Air:
[Image: https://philcoradio.com/phorum/images/at...es/pdf.gif] GE 326 Radio Phono.pdfSize: 216.49 KB  Downloads: 0


Before powering up the radio, the electrolytic filter capacitors must e replaced.  It is also very important to replace all other paper /foil capacitors.  We can help you with information on how to do this.  There should also be many You Tube videos on the subject also.  Good luck repairing / restoring this Unit.

---

"Do Justly, love Mercy and walk humbly with your God"- Micah 6:8 david.  You must have gotten a 2fer

[radiorich]

Hello Guys,
I too have
Coronado Radio-Phonograph mine is a diffrent model it has two doors and phono on the right and radio on the left I will post a Photo after work .

Sincerely Richard

[DavidK]

Here is what I have for the phonograph.  I put comments on the photos regarding missing/damaged components.  Anyone know where to go for replacement parts?

[DavidK]

Well, I finally got back to the radio chassis.  In an effort to help me understand this beast and minimize my potential harm, I did the following:

1. I know the Rectifier Tube is bad and I still need to replace caps before I can do anything too major.
2. I decided to take the "death voltage" out of the equation by unsoldering the High Voltage and 5 VAC from the Rectifier socket and label/cap them for another day.
3. I decided to eliminate the 6.3 VAC "filament" activity by unsoldering that wire from the terminal block.
4. I then unsoldered the Pilot Light line and shrink wrap it to the 6.3 VAC line.

So, while I don't have a "radio" at this point, I still have "all the parts in the box" and (after replacing the bulbs) the dial lights come on via the Volume Switch.  I guess I also technically have power to the phono too.

I did observe the 110 VAC between the two rectifier terminals (as expected) and 110 VAC differential between one terminal and the chassis (GND) due to the CAP-to-GRN.  And once the switch was turned ON (releasing power into the transformer), the chassis differential dropped to 55 VAC due to a second CAP-to-GRN now in the circuit.  Is that assumption correct and am I still within a "zone of safety"?

See attached photo with circled "mods".

   

[MrFixr55]

Hi David,

Updated 03/24/2023

This is a neat radio, between the push pull output and the inductive tuning (common for car radios, very rare for a "home" radio), shortwave bands, etc.

If by "rectifier terminals you mean the rectifier secondary to the plates of rectifier (Pins 4 and 6), this should be a lot more than 110V. It should be about 700V between the legs and 350V between either leg and center tap (all of this +/- 50 - 100V). If you meant the record player chassis, what you are measuring is the normal current through the AC Line capacitors, C30 and C31.

Disconnecting the rectifier plate and filament windings and the filament winding to the other tubes is usually unnecessary. Merely pull the rectifier and the radio is safe to power up.

For this radio, it is not necessary to "stuff" caps (hollowing out the old ones and installing the replacement caps inside). For the electrolytics, merely install a terminal strip and move the wires from the old can to the new caps. Replace all other paper caps. However, because some radios are unique (this is unique) and valuable (I don't know how collectable this is; it is a great radio, but it is not an EH Scott, a Zenith Stratosphere, etc.)

Definitely either replace or merely remove the caps that goes from each leg of the power line to the chassis before powering up. You will get a "tickle" if the caps are good and a flat out shock if either or both of the caps are bad. These caps filter AC Line interference from the radio. They are not critical, therefore they can be removed, but they should eventually be replaced appropriate "safety" caps.

As for the turntable, I don't know if the Voice of Music website will have a capstan wheel or tire. You might try to take the wheel to a hardware store to see if they have an O ring that will fit. Not perfect but better than nothing. Regarding the cartridge, that one takes either old Victor needles or a replacement with a more permanent sapphire needle. I prefer to put in a more modern ceramic cartridge, but you want one that has the option of a 78RPM needle, as 78RPM needles are bigger in diameter than LP styli. Playing 78s on a LP (33 1/3 RPM) stylus will heavily damage both the record and stylus.

The motor wiring can be resolved by splicing in new wire using heat shrink tubing.

[DavidK]

Thanks again for the help!

Those two CAPS-to-Chassis puzzled me but I figured as long as I didn't hold the chassis in one hand and poke the Rectifier plate/tabs with a finger from my other hand then I was "safe"...or have I just been lucky that I wasn't grounded when holding the chassis?

I noticed the filaments were "glowing" and didn't know if that would cause problems so that's why I unsoldered that line.

Yes, I identified an O-ring via Amazon.com that should fit that Idler Wheel (rim); just haven't ordered it yet.  The weather has been favorable so I've been working on the cabinets lately.