Hi all, new guy here, and if you happen to be on the Philco group on Facebook, you may have seen my posts about my find. I just picked up a 48-1276 in really good shape cosmetically, but completely original where it counts the most. My game plan is to start with a re-cap, and the first parts order gets here Monday. I’ve asked in the Facebook group, and gotten some great answers, but not everyone does social media, so I’ll also ask here. C108 is a non polar, 30mfd, 30V motor run capacitor, and on the 4th chassis run, they added another 30mfd 30V across C108 in parallel, that makes a total of 60mfd at 30V. Has anyone had any luck finding a reasonably sized cap for this? I’m not above using a standard motor run cap with much higher voltage, but would rather use something a bit more manageable size wise. I’ve had some great ideas on the Facebook group, and just wondered if someone has found the “silver bullet” I’m looking for.
Thanks for your time, and I’m sure I’ll have more questions as I get deeper in this thing.
Hello,
That is a great looking console that you have there!
My 39-116 used motorized volume control because the remote control operated the volume. I just used a 33mfd, 100-volt non-polarized electrolytic cap for this application. seems to operate just fine.
Good luck
We had just recently discussed that one in "For sale online".
Sheraton or Hepplewhite (same radio) are one of my bucket list. A Hepplewhite is still being sold in MA, in Boston. Yours is in great shape and with the original turntable.
As for the capacitor, considering the size of the motor, I doubt a large size cap is needed. The today's motor run caps are for larger motors.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
Thanks for the replies. I mis spoke when I said it was a run cap, it’s actually listed as a start cap in the service manual, with a later service addendum to add a second 30mfd cap in parallel. I have a couple of 33mfd 100v electrolytic audio crossover listed caps on the way.
Thanks for the compliments, it really is beautiful in person. Once the electrical service is done, I can’t wait to give the cabinet a good cleaning, and waxing to see it at its best. I plan to add a Bluetooth module, and gift it to a dear Friend that has a love for music, as well as appreciates things with history. I bought it from the family that bought it new, and heard all the memories associated with it. I’m sure my Friend will make even more memories with it with her children.
It can be pretty loud: a large co-axial speaker (2 in one, I think, wide-band and a twitter) and at least 15 Watts.
I was surprised by 30V for a run cap. For a start cap, perhaps. Although today ones are also at least 125V.
The tell-tell sign is the centrifugal switch: if it has one, then it is a start cap, and the motor has aux winding; if there is none, then it is a run cap.
Also start caps are usually electrolytic whereas the run caps are film caps, as they have to be rated higher in continuous duty current.
Yours is nonPol electrolytic, therefore it is a start cap. Does the motor have the switch?
I worked on a Perpetuum Ebner turntable in my Grundig; it had a start cap.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
(This post was last modified: 03-25-2023, 07:25 PM by morzh.)
15 watts is rather conservative, even for the GA version of the 6L6. I just reviewed the schematic. The tweeter is used only in FM Mode. This thing should totally ROCK in FM Mode. Wonder how it sounds compared to a Fisher of that version. This thing looks like they did not scrimp.
"Do Justly, love Mercy and walk humbly with your God"- Micah 6:8
Best Regards,
MrFixr55
(This post was last modified: 03-25-2023, 10:43 PM by MrFixr55.)
I didn’t see a physical switch, and the schematic doesn’t show a switch. It does call out a bi polar electrolytic, and calls it a start cap in the earlier factory manual I have.
I agree that it should sound really good, and I’m keeping my fingers crossed!
OK, I see....I thought we were talking of the turntable motor. This is the bandswitch motor. Those are run for a short time. So there is no continuous action, and no switch is needed.
The sch shows 30uF polarized capacitor. Not sure why polarized.
But I think you could simply use a NP electrolytic here, as the motor is small and is short action time, few seconds worst case.
Not all induction motors that use a capacitor also use a switch. The bigger ones do have a centrifugal switch. I have seen quite a few fractional horsepower motors use a cap (I don't think that it is a "run cap" but it might be), but do not use any sort of centrifugal switch. I would try to find a 30 uF 200V non-polarized electrolytic from a company that sells fractional horsepower induction motors or Grainger (not cheap but they do have EVERYTHING that a "Plant Operations" department of an institution would need). I am not sure that a 100WV (working Volr) electrolytic is hefty enough but it is in series and I am usually (but not always) cautious.
"Do Justly, love Mercy and walk humbly with your God"- Micah 6:8
Best Regards,
MrFixr55
(This post was last modified: 03-25-2023, 10:47 PM by MrFixr55.)
Since my last update, I’ve made progress. I managed to unlock the secret to replacing all the waxies in the band selector section, and I’m just waiting on one more oddball electrolytic.
Once all the waxies were replaced with poly’s, it left a lot of open room to look around, and inspect things.
That’s when I noticed there was a cut wire from the 1st IF transformer. I pulled it, and found the transformer had been removed, butchered, parts lost, then bolted back down.
So for a day and a half, I pondered what I was going to do with this boat anchor.
I managed to find a 48-1274 nearly complete chassis on that auction site, at a reasonable price.
My first radio restoration has turned into a Quest, and I am determined that this White Whale will live again.
