I am looking forward to learning more about Phrank's guts, and cleaning and upgrading (the caps especially).
I'm a mechanical engineer with a vague understanding of electronics. In my high school electronics shop course in 1974 (yes that was a thing), I even built a simple tube radio- hand-bent the chassis box, soldered all the bits, etc. I wish I still had that radio, but especially the textbook from that class! It explained all the tubes and stages at a high school level, perfect for me.
The 655 schematic here shows a phono jack (or switch? It's an unknown symbol to me), a pick-up, and a phono-motor... none of which are present on mine. There is an unused knockout on the back of the chassis (circled below), maybe the right size for a jack...
Well, I know it IS. It's not broken and the indicator light is visible through it. But are the available repro dials "better" than what this looks like?
Your dial is just fine the way it is. Noyt just OK, it is very good. Some cleaning might take some dirt off.
The sole dial I bought was 37-116, and no, it was not only not better, but worse, inaccurate and even lacked the notch. Had to file the inner part. Maybe it is better today, but to me undamaged original is as good as it gets.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
Well I know it's NOT...yuk! I wonder what that electrolyte was?
I know I can mount the replacement cap under the chassis, but there's some appeal to sticking it inside the old can. Any tricks for opening the can from the bottom for access?
And yes I've read about restuffing the plastic case caps... looks like a sticky mess.
(This post was last modified: 04-19-2023, 08:06 PM by patmat2350.)
I, would leave the can in place, disconnected. Trace the wires into the chassis and see if there is an available terminal and for the (+) and the (-) that can comfortable span the leads of a replacement electrolytic with some sleeving over the leads. Most often there is a location. The location should NOT be next to the volume control or in the RF area of the chassis. If there is no location find an area where there is an existing hole and install a terminal strip to support the cap and bring the exist leads to it. Or, drill a hole in the side of the chassis for the same. FWIR this cap is above chassis ground so either lead wire must not touch the chassis.
The crust is borax combined with extracted sulfur from the terminal gasket.
GL
Chas
Pliny the younger
“nihil novum nihil varium nihil quod non semel spectasse sufficiat”
There are many more than one post here on the Phorum about restuffing old aluminum can caps.
Depending on the type, it might be better cutting off the top or the bottom.
Then you gut it, clean it, and put a new cap inside.
Just search by the topic; otehrwise this will be another duplicated therad on how to restuff an electrolytic: we probably have at least 10 of those, if not more.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
