This appeared on my porch this morning for $30.
Appears to be completely original and intact down to the Philco tubes and the original grill cloth. The 7Y4 rectifier is missing and the power cord is trashed.
Case is in excellent shape. Advice on proper cleaning/polishing procedure would be appreciated.
I’ve just been using the standard yellow tubular caps I get from justradios - not sure there’s any advantage to upgrading to more expensive caps
Should be fun restoration after I get this SX-62 finished. That’s about done I think as soon as some parts get here.
You have received what should be when restored a very fine receiver, I have that set. It used to pick up SW with just internal antenna in the daytime. I use it now for AM and AM DX. I may have that tube for you if you need one and most likely any others if they test bad. LMK. BTW you paid 9.95 less than it was originally priced!.
I found the missing tube stuck in the back of the radio. A complete set of Philco branded tubes.
I’ve ordered a complete set of replacement caps this morning. And a can of non-abrasive Goop to clean up the case. The only missing part is a missing push button.
I’ll get on this as soon as I finish this SX-62. That’s about done so when it’s working I’ll put it on the end of the bench and let it play while I do this Philco. I figure about 10 hours of burnin should tell me whether the SX-62 is fully repaired.
Before I get started on this…I’m thinking of using a polarized plug with a 1 amp fast blow fuse before the line caps on the hot side of the switch. In the location indicated by the red dot on the photo. That sound about right or is there some other preference? To preserve the original look I think I’ll just use an under chassis fuse rather than drill a hole.
Hello BridKarl,
Yes, I buy those Safety capacitors from mouser and yes that set should be fairly easy and having a power transformer is a plus !
Sincerely Richard
More slow progress. I replaced the condenser block today using two .01 safety caps. I’m just replacing other caps later this week like the electrolytics.
It’s clear to me that I’m the second person to recap this as the 12mfd cap clearly isn’t the original.
I’m curious what the original power cord would have been - plastic? Run through a grommet? The previous owner just ran the cord through a piece of orange rubber tubing.
I’m finishing this up. As I tested my new parts I found that what is supposed to be a .006 cap for the tone control is testing out of circuit at .003. It’s a 1000 volt cap.
As the voltage value on the new cap is 1600 volts that’s fine - I’m just wondering how critical this would be - given that originally these had a 20 percent tolerance. Generally I’m not sweating this with these kinds of radios, but I’ve not done this Philco model before.
It would have some effect on the tone, I guess a lower value might make it a little brighter based on what I know of guitar amps. I’ll replace this later with the right value when I get it ordered, but will there be a any issues with basic functionality etc in the meantime?
(This post was last modified: 05-31-2024, 02:49 PM by bridkarl.)
I am not sure why exactly they need hi-V cap there. Seems like everyone had it at the time.
That is, I understand, that this guards against the unplugging the speaker hot.
But this is rare event, same as open voice coil.
I usually use 600V or 630V caps.
If I happen to have a cap with the right voltages, then yes, i use the one meeting the original specs, but that happened maybe once.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
In any event I have this all complete. Just tried bringing it up on the variac but have no voltages - even filament. Checked the fuse I installed and it’s good.
I need to check the tubes tomorrow. Fortunately I
have another unit of this model arriving today or tomorrow so I’ll have a set of spare tubes. Checked the rectifier just now and it tested good.
I just checked the power switch. With the switch pushed in - checking between the one lead on the condenser block and the other lead on the rectifier - pin 5 it looks like - I’m seeing no continuity. So it looks like the switch is bad.
Is this switch unique to this model or could I do a pull from another model? What would be the best way to by-pass the switch? Just put a switch in the cord ? I’m not sure how to clean this as it seems like a sealed switch - unless that round cover comes off?
(This post was last modified: 05-31-2024, 09:01 PM by bridkarl.)
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