12-16-2010, 12:43 AM
Hi Mike,
I would also suggest the painting of the chassis. Although it is clean, it is not uniform. The overall paint job will look great. Tedious masking though, but just camp out on it, take your time, it will be worth it.
That speaker, I have repaired worse. I had a large Zenith speaker from a guy, and it had burn marks on it! I don't know what happened, but there were missing pieces of cone, all fire burned. I used material from a shot donor speaker, cut the pieces slightly larger then the holes, and rounded the whole patch.
I used Weldwood contact cement, but you can use white glue too. Smear a slight amount on the cone area, then apply to the patch. Make sure it is lined up, because sometimes when you use the contact cement, you can't re position it. Keeping it from drying out too soon will give you time to position it.
Do the same for the other holes, largest first. One thing to think about too is not to put pressure on one side of the speaker, In other words, you don't want your patches to 'pull' on one side of the cone more than the other. That can lead to the voice coil rubbing.
Although the mice have chewed through the main wires, be happy that they didn't get to the coil wires. (I hope they didn't!). Just take your time and find and ID each chewed wire and replace it. I recently bought a Silvertone console that had a large mouse house under the chassis. Pulling the chassis, at least 30 small nut shells fell out, and all kinds of insulation and shredded paper followed! I gave it a preliminary cleaning, no coil wires chewed, just the larger cloth covered wires. I sort of look forward to redoing that chassis.
As far as your cabinet, I am not sure if there is some Photo Finish on the front where it says Philco. Photofinish is the faux woodgrain appled to cheaper wood. That might be real veneer, it's hard to tell. Anyone know? If it is Photofinish, do everything you can to touch up that section, then prevent it from being stripped off. Your refinisher could retouch it (if it is PF)using oil colors or toned clear, then apply a clear lacquer. Mask it off to do the rest of the cabinet.
See if she works with lacquers, as that's what's on the set right now. Applying polyurethane can give problems later if you have to refinish or repair a section. Lacquer and toners (clear with color dye) can be very forgiving in case you need to strip again and refinish a certain area.
Grain filling will also be needed on this cabinet after stripping the old finish off.
Thanks for deciding to save this cabinet and chassis. I's good to do one of these every now and then, that makes your next restore seem easier
Good luck, and if you'd like to see photos of that speaker repair, I can post those later.
Gary.
I would also suggest the painting of the chassis. Although it is clean, it is not uniform. The overall paint job will look great. Tedious masking though, but just camp out on it, take your time, it will be worth it.
That speaker, I have repaired worse. I had a large Zenith speaker from a guy, and it had burn marks on it! I don't know what happened, but there were missing pieces of cone, all fire burned. I used material from a shot donor speaker, cut the pieces slightly larger then the holes, and rounded the whole patch.
I used Weldwood contact cement, but you can use white glue too. Smear a slight amount on the cone area, then apply to the patch. Make sure it is lined up, because sometimes when you use the contact cement, you can't re position it. Keeping it from drying out too soon will give you time to position it.
Do the same for the other holes, largest first. One thing to think about too is not to put pressure on one side of the speaker, In other words, you don't want your patches to 'pull' on one side of the cone more than the other. That can lead to the voice coil rubbing.
Although the mice have chewed through the main wires, be happy that they didn't get to the coil wires. (I hope they didn't!). Just take your time and find and ID each chewed wire and replace it. I recently bought a Silvertone console that had a large mouse house under the chassis. Pulling the chassis, at least 30 small nut shells fell out, and all kinds of insulation and shredded paper followed! I gave it a preliminary cleaning, no coil wires chewed, just the larger cloth covered wires. I sort of look forward to redoing that chassis.
As far as your cabinet, I am not sure if there is some Photo Finish on the front where it says Philco. Photofinish is the faux woodgrain appled to cheaper wood. That might be real veneer, it's hard to tell. Anyone know? If it is Photofinish, do everything you can to touch up that section, then prevent it from being stripped off. Your refinisher could retouch it (if it is PF)using oil colors or toned clear, then apply a clear lacquer. Mask it off to do the rest of the cabinet.
See if she works with lacquers, as that's what's on the set right now. Applying polyurethane can give problems later if you have to refinish or repair a section. Lacquer and toners (clear with color dye) can be very forgiving in case you need to strip again and refinish a certain area.
Grain filling will also be needed on this cabinet after stripping the old finish off.
Thanks for deciding to save this cabinet and chassis. I's good to do one of these every now and then, that makes your next restore seem easier
Good luck, and if you'd like to see photos of that speaker repair, I can post those later.
Gary.
