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42-1008 code 122
Hello all, I just found this forum yesterday and I can't tell you how happy I am that a resource like this exists.

Here's some background: My wife's grandfather bought a Philco 42-1008 with the Beam Of Light phonograph when he got back from fighting in the Pacific Theater during WW2. He's now 94 years old and gave it to my mother-in-law. It hasn't worked for decades, but 98% of the pieces are there and it's in great shape for it's age (mostly just very dusty and missing a few tubes). I've been wanting to to restore it to working order for almost 20 years and I now feel I have the resources and electronic know-how to tackle it. I'd love to let Grandaddy hear his old radio and phonograph working again.

Here are the questions:
1.I know it needs to be re-capped and probably needs the wiring replaced. Since most of the components and wiring inside the chassis will never be seen, should I bother with using cloth wiring and original-looking components inside the chassis?

2. What kind of capacitors should I use for the non-electrolytics?

3. Is there a source for the rubber wheels for the turntable drive?

4. I need to replace the power cord and want to use a polarized cord and put in a fuse for safety, what amp rating fuse should I use?

BTW, I'll be happy to post pictures of this project as it goes if anyone is interested.
#1 Doesn't matter much. Some find it easier to use shrink tube over the old wire.
#2 I like epoxy dipped ones. Mylars are ok too.
#3 Don't really need a polarized plug for this set as the line isn't tied back to the chassis. 1/4 (250w) or 1/2 (500w) amp should be fine.
"Just because the microphone in front of you amplifies your voice around the world is no reason to think we have any more wisdom than we had when our voices could reach from one end of the bar to the other"     Ed Morrow

It's been a long time since last I checked in here. I changed jobs, traveled to Europe and the Middle East (for both work and play, but not in that order) and moved to sunny Florida, all of which put this project on hold for months and months.

All compensators have been checked and repaired, all capacitors have been replaced. The tuning condenser has been cleaned out. The push button switch assembly has been cleaned up. Deteriorated wiring is 90% replaced. Still need a little more wiring, maybe 3 tubes, 4 replacement knobs, minor speaker repair, but I did get a good start on repairing the Beam-Of Light phonograph.

The good news is that in the pickup assembly, the photocell still works and the needle/mirror mounting isn't petrified. The drive mechanism is 98% intact and has been cleaned and lubed. The bad news is the rubber on the idler wheel is hard as plastic and half gone.
The 42-1008 was my 1st. antique and my 1st. short wave radio.

Does the phonograph have the original bell drive with the motor mounted horizontally or has it been "upgraded" with the rim-drive idler and the motor mounted vertically? If it is the rim-drive version I can send you a rubber o-ring that I used on my 1942 BOL. If it has the original bell drive then you might try getting some rubber tubing and slitting it length-wise to go over the edge of the drive bell.
It has the original bell drive with horizontally mounted motor. The nice thing about that is that the turntable speed can be adjusted by moving the idler in closer to the center or out toward the edge on the drive wheel surface. Therefore, I do not have to be exact about idler circumference.

I may have an idea of how to fix the idler. I am going to get a small can of Plasti Dip rubber tool coating and coat the idler rim in it, possibly with several coats (depending on how thick it is). I figure it's worth a try; the coating is under $10, and can be easily scraped off if it doesn't work.
Last weekend, I followed instructions posted in this forum for repairing a minor speaker tear. It seems to be OK, but my work isn't as pretty as the instruction video. Oh well, the grill cloth is in great condition, so nobody will know. My wife feels better about it-- she's who accidentally tore it while packing for the move.

I just got the replacement tubes I ordered from the guy in Orlando, so this thing is almost ready to fire up.

My next radio is going to be a much simpler set; this thing is a bigger project than I first expected.
Arrrgh. (That's frustration, not piratey talk).

I had installed a fuse on the incoming hot line, plugged it in and powered up the radio after seating all the tubes. Only the two 41 audio amp tubes lit, then the fuse blew after a couple minutes.

So off I go, scanning the schematic for possible causes for my trouble. First thing I realize is that the 5Y4G rectifier tube has an open filament- probably one of the original tubes, and no big deal to replace. I also went through and took some resistance readings on other components. I found the bad primary winding on the audio output transformer-- while not my main suspect, it needs to be dealt with.

However, a few days later, it suddenly hit me right between the eyes. I can't believe I didn't consider this before, but I never replaced the filter caps at the power transformer (facepalm). Icon_redface
Here's some pics to remind me of what I'm working on since the cabinet is still at my in-law's place in Northern Alabama:






P.S. Grandaddy is now 96 and still hangin' in there.
After two years of piddling around with this thing, I'm making a concerted effort to get it done by Christmas so I can get it back up to my favorite Mother-In-Law. I just ordered every single electronic component I haven't already replaced-- resistors, mica caps, and a new audio output xfmr.

My boss let me borrow his grandfather's old tube tester, and I found one of the NOS 7C6 tubes I bought previously is bad. So I have an order placed with Bob Dobush for that and the 5Y4G rectifier. I've also discovered a light socket that is shorting filament voltage to ground. That makes me pretty happy about my decision to install a fuse.

Yes, two years seems like a very long time for this project. But in all fairness, I've changed jobs once and moved twice. We just bought a house, so I finally have a permanent place for my work bench instead of using the kitchen table.

Maybe it has all been for the best. I've been on this forum a lot, learning tons of good stuff in the meantime. Many thanks to all of you who love to share info.

P.S. Once this one is done, I'll be on the prowl for another Philco project. I'm hooked. ;)
My parts order has arrived.

I immediately got to work replacing resistors. I got to the 5th or 6th one and discovered that I should have read the Code 122 notes before ordering-- resistor (57) 2.2kOhm was replaced with a 3.3kOhm resistor, among other things.

That one will have to wait until I can get up to Radio Snark in the morning and pay too much after answering the clueless kid working there what he can help me find and then ignoring the blank look on his face (bless his heart).

Let that be a lesson to always read the notes for the set being worked on before ordering parts online.
I've got almost all the new components installed. In the process, I found another couple of wires with bad rubber insulation. As I replaced those, I found another problem. The ground wire for the dial light was pulled up against the B voltage pin on one of the tubes and worn through.

I am really glad that I decided to go ahead and replace everything I could find. I have noticed things that escaped my attention before such as those bad wires tucked up in the corner. Also, I've been testing random components as they come out and most are 25% or more out of spec.
OK, minor issue.

Does anyone know why resistor (12) which should be 680 ohms (according to the schematic and parts list) is actually a 1 kOhm resistor?

This resistor goes from the oscillator coil to ground.
Hi Eric

The schematic you have will be for the Code 121 version of the 42-1008. Philco did not issue a revised schematic for Code 122, but they did publish the changes made to the Code 122 version, as follows:

Phono oscillator transformer (16) changes from 32-3785 to 32-3866.
Condenser (56), 0.2 uF, changes to 10 uF, part no. 30-2500.
Resistor (57), 2200 ohms, changes to 3300 ohms, 1/2 watt.
Power transformer (78 ), 32-8129, changes to 32-8217. The new transformer does not have a separate winding for the 7C6 oscillator tube filament. This filament is now connected in parallel with the other 6.3 volt tubes in the set.
Phono input transformer (91) changes to 32-8215.
Tuning shaft is 56-6196 FCP.
Tuning shaft drive cord is 31-2614.

After all of that, note that there is no mention of resistor (12) being changed - so I would replace it with a new 680 ohm resistor.
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand, IN
Я этого не понимаю
Thanks, Ron. I'll give that a try.

I had gone ahead and put a 1K ohm resistor in since the one in there looked like an original part.

I plugged it in without any tubes, the pilot lights lit and the fuse didn't blow. So I put all the tubes in and fired 'er up.

There's no radio static at all, but the audio section is alive. You can hear a very faint hum that's probably from my fluorescent bench lights and the speaker lets out a little pop when you turn the band switch.

I hope it just needs an alignment because I'm almost out of time.

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