[Pepperoni]

I stained the cabinet on this 40-190 this morning. I had to strip someones rather poor attempt to refinish it sometime in the past. I've used Deft lacquer "sanding sealer" before on new veneer but is it necessary to use it when refinishing a cabinet that has had no new veneer put on it? Can I just shoot the finish lacquer over the stain once it's good and dry?

Thanks,
Pepper

[exray]

I always use a sealer. That way you avoid any possible incompatibility with the stain or any previous unknown finish chemicals that may still be imbedded in the wood. Better safe than sorry

[Pepperoni]

Thanks!
Pepper

[Pepperoni]

I've heard that after a new lacquer finish has been applied it should be rubbed out. Is this necessary if the new finish is smooth and looks beautiful? If so what should it be rubbed out or polished with? A paste wax?

Pepper

[Ron Ramirez]

I use automotive polishing compound...gently, not rubbing too hard...followed by a good quality paste wax. This should not be done until the new lacquer has been allowed to "outgas" a minimum of 1 to 2 weeks.

[37silverstreak]

I've heard that after a new lacquer finish has been applied it should be rubbed out. Is this necessary if the new finish is smooth and looks beautiful? If so what should it be rubbed out or polished with? A paste wax?

Pepper

I usually use 0000 steel wool to gently buff out a new finish. It does a lot to even out the finish and cut down any "orange peel" effect from spraying. Afterwards I use a good furniture paste wax.

[codefox1]

I like to wait a week or so before I touch a finish, not having drying ovens of a furniture factory. Two weeks is better in the summer or tropical climates. A litle lemon oil with a pad of soft linen or paper towels works wonders. Gently rub.

[squeeker7]

I spray Deft lacquer all the time in the restoration of antique phonographs. I just posted several photos on "the talking machine forum" under "Machines" and the article is "Edison B19 Rescue". At any rate. I use a HVLP system and always after stripping a cabinet and restaining I mix my own Shellac with Shellac Flakes to a 1-lb cut. I tint the Shellac with Aniline dye to during the process to control the color. I spray 2 coats of Shellac and both coats are steelwooded with #0000. Once the cabinet is good and dry - 2 to 3 days I spray a tinted coat of Deft semi-gloss. The first coat when dry is steelwooled and another coat of Deft is sprayed. Once the final coat is dry I steelwool it. Deft is great stuff as when it is sprayed it flattens and evens itself out wonderfully.

After the final coat is dry I let the cabinet sit for 2 weeks and then hand polish with Behlen Deluxing Compound. I have been using this stuff for years and years. It does not streak and brings out the luster and depth of the lacquer.

[ipwizard]

On my 71B I sprayed a couple coats of Deft semi-gloss then steelwooled it (#0000). A couple more coats then let it dry for about 4-5 days. I used Behlen's fine pumice stone with some mineral oil and rubbed the finish out, then I went to rottenstone and mineral oil for the final polish. This got rid of all the orange peel any any overspray. Finally I buffed the finsh with some Minwax wood wax.

[TA Forbes]

I'll second that about pumice/oil, Keith! I like using 0000 steel wool, then pumice/oil. I dont use rottenstone only because I want a semi-gloss finish.

[magicclocks]

Careful with sanding sealer. I just bought some and it said right on the can. Do not use under lacquer I put on a couple coats of stain and then lacquered and it came out fine

[LedHed]

I have been using the Deft sanding sealer for lacquer as well as the Deft gloss lacquer. I have read that the gloss lacquers are actually harder than the semi-gloss or satin because of the component in the lacquer that cuts the gloss. I sanded every four coats or so, and in the end block sanded everything down to 600 grit, and then buffed with 0000 steel wool followed by Howards citrus furniture wax.

[Ron Ramirez]

Yes, you have to make sure that the sanding sealer you buy is for use with lacquer finishes.

I used Deft lacquer sanding sealer on the cabinets I refinished last summer, with no problems. These received Mohawk toners over the sealer, followed by top coats of Deft clear lacquer. They still look as good now as when I refinished them.

Interesting side note about the hardness of Deft. I accidentally dropped my 53C while moving it from one shelf to another. It landed face down on the carpet, on top of a knob which fell off when the radio fell. I picked it up, expecting the worst...and it had no visible marks. And its final finish is semi-gloss. Whew!

http://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=3807

[Pepperoni]

I haven't checked in here for a while and I see lots has been added. I've read them all and I appreciate them all. I've learned a lot. I thank all of you very much.

Pepper

[gary rabbitt]

Hi Pepper,
All good info here.
But I always heard that sanding sealer is not grain filler. Yes, it can help to fill in minor pores in the wood, but larger pores should have grain filler applied. That will smooth out the pores. You can tint the filler.

Spraying on Deft right after your stain , you will end up with surface where the pores really show depending on the light. Almost a "sparkly" appearance with all the pores reflecting back at you.
With the filled grain, the surface is totally smooth. Whether glossy or satin,the surface looks a lot better.

Layering on too much sanding sealer can cause issues because it is 'softer' than your lacquer.
I never had any trouble applying one coat of sealer, then using Deft.
Again, if there are pores left after your sealer, you should apply filler. Trying to fill in the pores with lacquer can be time consuming and waste a lot of lacquer.
Good luck!