Posts: 661
Threads: 141
Joined: Jun 2011
City: Elko,MN.
I had so much fun on the last 2cm, I picked up another to keep me out of trouble.
Bought a cap kit to re-cap, but noticed some wiring issues that have me wondering.
Noticed wires coming from 1st IF trimmers and 2nd IF trimmers have had a few wires cut and taped on the ends.
Any idea why this would have been jerry rigged?
I could send a pic if needed.
The radio seems to play ok on AM. Have not tried the SW bands.
Would like to figure out the wiring before re-capping.
What do you guy's think?
murf
Posts: 2,353
Threads: 92
Joined: May 2010
City: Clayton, NC
It could be that they go to the selectivity control (two position switch).
See if your selectivity control has continuity to both IF cans.
Posts: 661
Threads: 141
Joined: Jun 2011
City: Elko,MN.
Does not appear that way.
Wires were cut and the ends taped.
I think I will pull the chassis out of the other 2CM that I just finished and do a little comparrison.
Thanks
Posts: 661
Threads: 141
Joined: Jun 2011
City: Elko,MN.
I'll be darned,
TA Forbes, You are a genius.
You are exactly right.
I pulled the chassis from my other 2CM, and the wires in question go to the center 2 position switch.
Must be a sensitivity switch?
I can only assume that the switch was bad, therfore requiring the disconnect.
Should I try to replace the switch, or just leave it alone?
What are the odds that I would find another?
Thanks again for your expert diagnosis TA.
Murf
Posts: 2,353
Threads: 92
Joined: May 2010
City: Clayton, NC
The switch is easy to replace. It may not be what came in the set, but it will work.
You should verify that all three coils in both IF cans are good. The third coil is the one that is switched into the circuit by your control.
If both cans are OK, I would just get a replacement switch and be done with it.
Finding a replacement IF can for these WG based sets is tough. I have a Truetone D697 that has an open one and have not found a replacement yet......
Posts: 661
Threads: 141
Joined: Jun 2011
City: Elko,MN.
I don't know if I want to replace the switch now.
Looks there were some wiring mods made and a couple caps removed and others put in different spots.
Might be opening up a can of worms.
I wish people would not jerry rig these old timers like that.
Makes it hard to work on later for the next guy.
I think I will just finish re-capping it and call it good.
Don't really need that function anyway.
Anyone know why Wells Gardner has that metal plate laying under the chassis?
Just sits under there and it looks like it has a ground terminal on it.
Both of my sets have it, and neither one is attached to anything.
Have a great day.
murf
