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What type of caps to use?
#1

I've been doing a lot of reading and research about my new hobby. After having three sucessful restorations I have a question: What is the difference between the yellow axial caps and the orange dipped caps? Does anyone have a preference and why.

Thanks,
Eric
#2

Either will work fine, as long as they are the correct voltage and value. I've used both and don't really have a preference. Axial are usually a little less expensive, but other than that, I don't know of any real advantage one has over the other.
#3

Thanks Dave. I guess the axials do fit better.

Eric
#4

If you touch the yellow one with the tip of your iron GAME OVER it's shorted. I like the drops a bit better.
Terry
#5

I knew there had to be some reason. Anybody else?

Thanks,
Eric
#6

I've been buying the Russian surplus paper-in-oil jobs off eBay.

Steel shells, hermetically sealed like the old "Vitamin Q" caps.

Zero failures with hundreds bought. Most are painted green.

Cheap, and small enough to restuff old paper shells without problems.

Dennis

Pacing the cage...
#7

Thus far I've only used the yellow axials, but I've also had to chuck a few and replace after I committed the aforementioned soldering iron foul. I think this was also the day I burned my finger on the iron and called it quits for about a week.
#8

I never killed a cap in my life and I've been practicing for 43 years. Killed few transistors though and a few chips. The only caps I saw killed died on their own free will, such as SMT ceramics or tantalums - they love to burn when solder-stressed or from infant mortality.

No matter which type, as long as it is film, it matters not. Choose the one that fits the best to the form factor of the space. I don't buy those with short leads, usually they are line filter types, as they are inconvenient to solder and lead-form. They are good for PCBs. Not for resoring old radios.

With electrolytic caps I do try to buy better ripple-current if possible without overpaying much; they at least in theory will last longer.
#9

I prefer the yellow ones. EVERYONE knows radios play better with the YELLOW ones......Icon_wtf
#10

I don't have the wealth of experience as many others here, but I do find the yellow axials a little easier to maintain good lead dress with. I have also had a few instances where the leads were just long enough to fit. I seem to recall the orange drops having shorter leads. Anyone else know for sure? At this point a bought a couple assortments from justradios.com, which are all the yellow axials and have been using them with no issues to speak of. I have not however touched one with a soldering iron. Now that I know about that issue I shall be even more careful!

One cannot forbid people to be idiots....all one can do is try not to be one. -Morzh
#11

Matters not.
#12

Thanks for all of the input. I think I'll stay with yellow from just radios.

Eric
#13

All kidding aside, Eric, it gets down to what you are most comfortable with using. That is assuming that you have a choice between caps of the same voltage and capacity rating.

PERSONALLY I prefer axial leads, the only radials I have are values that I can only get in radial configuration. \

The "orange dip" caps get too physically large for my taste when you get into values greater than .1mFd. The yellow axials are smaller and easier to use/fit.

Same goes for the film caps when you get into values larger than 0.5 mFd, physically too large. For values larger than 0.5 mFd I use electrolytics.
#14

Sounds good, TA. Thanks for the help.

Eric
#15

If I could avoid electrolytics altogether I would, but of course to the date theirs is the highest capacitive density, hence for some capacitance/voltage combinations there is no simply any other choice.
Also electrolytics are the cheapest way to get a high capacitance.
Say, when designing low voltage DCDCs when I need a low ESR cap I use X5R ceramics as they can reach over 100uF at 6 to 10V working voltage. However they are also expensive.

However electrolytics have the shortest lifespan of all, overly sensitive to temperature and used at their max current rating (ripple vs temp) will live as little as 2000 hrs.

Luckily in tube radios they are usually not used at their max rating. Still when buying, I try to get the max ripple rating at an acceptable price. This will ensure a long life.
This is why it is usually a good idea to know what the ripple rating is that the capacitor is subjected to.




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