[OldRestorer]

I have a GE GD-60 on my bench right now and am 99% finished recapping but the Ecap is frustrating me.

It is a 20+12. I got a 16 and a 10 to replace them? I dont know why I didn't just get a 20 and a 12 in the first place so I think I might.

But I dont know how to seperate this large Ecap into 2 new ones or where to attach them. I stink at reading schematics and I have never replaced an Ecap so I need some guidance.

The Ecap has 2 leads from one end going to cathodes of the 25z5 and the other end leads going to 2 separate terminals.

I figure I would twist the 20 and 12 leads together on one end but do I twist the negatives or the positives?

and then where do the other end of the 20 and 12 go to?

I know I can just follow the old wire but which one connects to the 20 and which one to the 12?

I am lost yet again. I have added the sch. below Any help is appreciated.... the schematic has a change for the GD-60 below the schematic for these Ecaps.

http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByMode ... 007883.pdf

[gregb]

Hi Kirk:
From what I see twist the positive leads together and connect to the cathodes of the 25Z5 tube. The negative of the 20uf goes to the input side of the choke which connects to one side of the line, change the cord to a polarized one and make sure that is the neutral side. The negative for the 12uf goes to the other side of the choke. Hope this helps and if not ask away, I am not the best instructor.

Gregb

[OldRestorer]

Ok I don't know what a choke is, lol

what do you mean:
"change the cord to a polarized one and make sure that is the neutral side."

[skyscraper]

A choke is just a coil of wire, you can google for pictures of them.

AC/DC sets (I assume this is, can't find the schematic) weren't polarized, ie the blades on the cord are the same size. This is dangerous because one side of the power supply is attached directly to the chassis in most cases, so there's a 50% chance 120 volts will be on anything metal. Especially dangerous to repairmen. When replacing the cord, use one with a larger blade (which is neutral). Connect neutral to the ground side of the circuit, that will make it safer.

I hope this applies to your radio, again I didn't find the schematic with a quick search.

[klondike98]

Here's the schematic: http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Resources/883/M0007883.htm

[skyscraper]

It is AC/DC, but it doesn't look like the chassis is grounded to the line. I don't think it matters much at that point, but I'll defer to more experienced minds

[OldRestorer]

When replacing the cord, use one with a larger blade (which is neutral). Connect neutral to the ground side of the circuit

what is a cord? and what is a blade?? <---new guy here

schematic is above

[gregb]

OK, the two positives are going to the 25Z5 cathodes so that leaves just the other two leads which will be the negative leads. In the radio you should be able to locate the two original leads that were connected else where, not the 25Z5 tube. Those are the two negative leads you need. If the schematic is true to the actual construction of the radio the input to the choke is also connected to the on/off switch. One of the original negative leads should be connected to this point, check with your ohm meter, should read zero ohms between the correct lead and the on/off switch. This is where the negative for the 20uf cap goes. The other negative for the 12uf cap goes to where the remaining lead goes.
Hope this helps

Gregb

[skyscraper]

The power cord. The two prongs that go in the outlet are the blades, old radios used 'non-polarized' meaning both are the same size and can plug in either way. Modern polarized plugs have one blade bigger, which is neutral or 0v. The small blade, or hot, is 120v.

[gregb]

The cord is referring to the power cord. A polarized cord like explained in another reply is one that has one wide blade and one narrower blade, the blades are the two metal prongs that go into the wall outlet. In this case you want the wide/neutral blade connected to the negative side of things in the radio to help with hum reduction. Like in one of the other replies some chassis have one side of the line connected to the chassis which is dangerous and needs to be connected to the neutral/wide blade.

Gregb

[morzh]

>>what is a cord? and what is a blade?? <---new guy here

Kidding, right?
If you have got to caps, you gotta now your chords by now.

The power cord.....the thing that looks like a kinda snake....with the power plug at the end.....the one you plug in the outlet....don't tell me now "OK, what's outlet". We gotta keep a little sanity here

[Joe Rossi]

Sanity? What's that?

[OldRestorer]

I know it was the snakey thing but blades? come on, the only blades I know are with Wesley Snipes! lol,
thanks and I'll let you know if it explodes.

Ok one lead goes to pin 8 of 6A8G
the other lead goes to pin 5 of 40A
Which is 20 and which is 12?
I dont see a wire to the field coil

Do I need an X2 cap since the .02 is in the line?

Kirk

[skyscraper]

Not sure what the 40A is, not on the schematic I'm looking at. But the 12mf one goes to the 6A8G (and the 6K7).

The field coil should be connected between the two ecaps. The two positive ends it looks like.

Safety caps aren't strictly necessary, I didn't use them on a couple radios, but a very good idea.

[gregb]

Sure the 12uf negative goes to the 6a8 cathode like Skyscraper says and the 20uf negative goes to the remaining original lead. The positives go to the cathode of the 25z5 for sure.

Gregb