07-15-2014, 06:45 AM
Hi Micheal
Welcome to the Phorum.
Basically your auto radio is the same as a table set with a few differences. The main difference is the power supply. It operates from 6volts DC at a fairly high current. I'd take a guess and say you'll need about 10-15amps of current to power is little puppy. This also means you'll need some large gauge wire for the power connections, maybe 10Ga or so. If you use wire that is too thin it will get warm and will cause a voltage drop.
The key part of the power supply is the vibrator. It's job is to chop up the 6VDC and turn it in to 6VAC. It's very important that the contacts inside are clean and smooth. Often they get pitted (very much like your distributor points) One reason for this is worn out buffer condensers in the power supply.They usually are connected the the contacts of the vibrator and have a very high volt rating like 2KV or so. Don't skimp on the volt rating as there are very hv spikes at that point and under rated one will short out. Once the power supply is working correctly you are on your way.
What I have done in the past to operate a 6V car radio for testing is to use a bench supply to provide heater and HV. 6VDC at a few amps and 180-220VDC for the HV To me it's easier and don't have to worry with the battery running low and voltage drop across the wiring.
As mention by others do replace all of the paper condenser and electrolytic ones too. The resistors due tend to change value over time so check them with an ohm meter. They where probably 20 percent jobs originally. If they still check within 20 percent your good if not time to change.
Have fun with it! Oh the other big difference between it and a table set is it can be a bit cramped and hard to get to some of the parts. Personally I don't like working on them because of that fact.
Would love to see a pic or two of the car it's going in to!
Best of luck with it and you have found a good source of technical help here. Lots of good smart folks that know much more than I
Terry
Welcome to the Phorum.
Basically your auto radio is the same as a table set with a few differences. The main difference is the power supply. It operates from 6volts DC at a fairly high current. I'd take a guess and say you'll need about 10-15amps of current to power is little puppy. This also means you'll need some large gauge wire for the power connections, maybe 10Ga or so. If you use wire that is too thin it will get warm and will cause a voltage drop.
The key part of the power supply is the vibrator. It's job is to chop up the 6VDC and turn it in to 6VAC. It's very important that the contacts inside are clean and smooth. Often they get pitted (very much like your distributor points) One reason for this is worn out buffer condensers in the power supply.They usually are connected the the contacts of the vibrator and have a very high volt rating like 2KV or so. Don't skimp on the volt rating as there are very hv spikes at that point and under rated one will short out. Once the power supply is working correctly you are on your way.
What I have done in the past to operate a 6V car radio for testing is to use a bench supply to provide heater and HV. 6VDC at a few amps and 180-220VDC for the HV To me it's easier and don't have to worry with the battery running low and voltage drop across the wiring.
As mention by others do replace all of the paper condenser and electrolytic ones too. The resistors due tend to change value over time so check them with an ohm meter. They where probably 20 percent jobs originally. If they still check within 20 percent your good if not time to change.
Have fun with it! Oh the other big difference between it and a table set is it can be a bit cramped and hard to get to some of the parts. Personally I don't like working on them because of that fact.
Would love to see a pic or two of the car it's going in to!
Best of luck with it and you have found a good source of technical help here. Lots of good smart folks that know much more than I
Terry
