Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

40-190 - suggestions on finishing
#1

I recently got a 40-190 from a friend who had this radio in the attic of his old farmhouse. As you can imagine the cabinet finish is in really rough shape with much of the photo-finish missing. The rest of the unit (chassis/speaker/antenna/etc) is in fine shape however and doesn't appear to have mice damage.

My thoughts were to not even attempt at fixing the photo-finish and to sand it down and paint it a color that would have been popular at that time while also attempting to capture some of the previous detailing in some fashion. Finally adding the reproduction labels and covering the cabinet with a coat of something to protect the new finish.

Any thoughts/suggestions on a good paint color to start with that would compliment this unit? Has anyone ever attempted this before as an alternative? I hate to scrap the cabinet as I love the design and it's actually really structurally sound.

[Image: http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i295/b...G00461.jpg]
[Image: http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i295/b...G00481.jpg]
[Image: http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i295/b...G00471.jpg]
[Image: http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i295/b...G00491.jpg]

Brian Mattson
Coon Rapids, MN
#2

Hi

First of all, forget the paint. This set did not use any photofinish; it actually has real veneer on its front panel.

Take a look.

http://www.philcoradio.com/gallery/1940a.htm#ae

I would use Medium Walnut toning lacquer over the entire cabinet once it has been stripped; add Perfect Brown on the bottom trim for a little contrast. Finish with clear lacquer.

To finish the cabinet using other products (paint, polyurethane, etc.) would be to give the cabinet a finish that was not used originally.

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#3

Looking at it - I thought on the front it was veneer - but the sides and arches looked a whole lot like pine or another cheap white wood! That's wonderful news that it's not a photo finish and to be honest I really HATE painting wood as a general rule! I thought I was just up a crick without a paddle here!

Brian Mattson
Coon Rapids, MN
#4

Wow. Aside from the flaking of the original finish, that cabinet looks to be in GREAT condition, right down to the original cloth.
#5

Toned laquer hides a multitude of sins. If you want more character you can always use artists oils thinned down with paint thinner on soft wood, but use sparingly and let it dry at least a week before laquer regimen. When touching up, I have found out that the grey level or gamma, is more important than the actual hue, once everything is done and over, and a semi-gloss sheen is achieved.
#6

Hi,
You can use the toner on the veneer to get your color right. On the trim areas, You could use a pigmented toner. That will help hide the cheaper wood frains, while adding a walnut color. The dye toner on the veneer will let the grain show through.

I would suggest that you fill the grain of the veneer. Otherwise the walnut veneer doesn't look all that good with the deep pores of the grain still showing.
There are many Youtube videos showing methods to fill the grain. Don't use 'wood filler' they do make grain filler in either oil base or water base.The water base dries too fast IMHO, so when this runs out, I will use oil based.
You can tone the filler as dark as you like. I prefer a darker grain pore than the surrounding wood color.

Your set overall looks great. The grillecloth is good shape too. I'd only use a soft brush and fllick off the dirt. If you attempt to wash it, you rish it falling apart. I have had it happen to me. It looks ok as it is, blow off and brush the dirt off.

Using oil stains mixed with clear may work, but it does take a long time to dry.
Good luck with your set.




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Philco 38-7 Speaker
I have let this one sit because of other duties. Now I am back, and I have a couple of questions. I hooked up a Hammond ...tludka — 05:34 PM
Philco 42-390, code 121 speaker
>>A closer examination of the very small print schematic indicates that the speaker is a PM type. This shows a ...morzh — 05:18 PM
Philco 60 Squealing
Litz is typically tinned by simply rubbing it with the soldering iron tip while immersed in solder (and a bit of rosin f...morzh — 05:14 PM
Philco 6K7
The suppressor grid (if by G3 you mean the S) is usually at the Cathode potential, which in this caes is GND. I am not ...morzh — 05:10 PM
Philco 16B Parts
Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately the radio was removed before bidding was over so I didn't get a chance to bid.dconant — 04:10 PM
Philco 16B Parts
Hi Dan, Mike is correct, there's a lot of painted stuff on the chassis but it looks pretty good. The sm is all there,sp...Radioroslyn — 03:50 PM
1930s Stromberg-Carlson Tombstone Radio need help identifying model number
Hi Cap'n Clock, Unfortunately, I do not have this radio.  This is a shame because this should be a good performer.  2A...captainclock1988 — 03:43 PM
Philco 42-390, code 121 speaker
Using a 5W  1.5k  ceramic resistor in place of the field coil and using a 4 ohm PM speaker, I was able to bring the radi...Stevelog — 02:57 PM
Philco 60 Squealing
I have taken out the 2nd IF and found a problem or not. I believe the coils are litz wire. There is a very small strand ...dconant — 02:13 PM
Philco 6K7
I am restoring a Philco 37-60. The am reception is very good, but the shortwave is very weak. Run 6 Philco removes the g...bobbyd1200 — 01:35 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 4705 online users. [Complete List]
» 2 Member(s) | 4703 Guest(s)
AvatarAvatar

>