Welcome Guest! Be sure you know and follow the Phorum Rules before posting. Thank you and Enjoy! (January 12) x

Thread Closed
Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Sears 6050 Re-stuffing Ecap question still need answer
#1

I am re-repairing my 6050 and someone at one time just threw a 50 uf Ecap under the chassis to replace the 40 20 that was there.

I had started by just replacing the 50 with a new 50 but was still getting a loud unchanging buzzing from the speaker so I ditched that idea.

I have removed the Ecap and have put in the new 47 and 22 Ecaps to their marked terminals but want to make sure I am getting the grounding right.

I have both negatives twisted and going to one of the outer twist lock terminals of the can. the can says negative is the can so is this correct?

Lastly, Where they put in the replacement cap is now not needed so I just clip it out and don't need to do anything else right?

Here are some pics:


Attached Files Image(s)
               

Times I have been electrocuted in 2021
As of 1/01/2021
AC: 4 DC: 1
Last year: 6
#2

Looks like that 50uf is in backwards. Make sure you didn't make that same mistake in the restuff.
#3

I thought that too but Thats how the other one was in. I'm guessing thats why it was making all that buzzing but I turned it around and it still has the loud buzzing. Hoping the re-stuff will fix it. All wires and caps were replaced so I don't know what else it could be.
I'm not good with trouble shooting as can be seen...

Times I have been electrocuted in 2021
As of 1/01/2021
AC: 4 DC: 1
Last year: 6
#4

If it is any help, an electolytic stuffed in backwrds is likely to blow open or short depending on the fusisters put in place. Best replace everything in voltage divider network and get a handle on current draw with a good old fashioned DC ammeter to find the gremlin. Work from the output stage "backwards" to the antenna. Best of luck.
#5

Can you look at the chassis and tell us which version you have?

http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel...017327.pdf

John KK4ZLF
Lexington, KY
"illegitimis non carborundum"




Users browsing this thread:
[-]
Recent Posts
I'm starting to restore a Philco 16X, I need spare parts. Help me find it
Arran. As always, the information you have provided is very valuable to me. Thank you. Yes, it is a Canadian Philco 316A...RadioSvit — 04:04 PM
Philco 42-345 Restoration/Repair
Best to use the one from the library on this site, then when you refer to part 30 we know which part you are referring t...RodB — 03:32 PM
52-942
Welcome to the Phorum, Ken! The included schematic for your set is located in the Philco Library at the bottom of our Ho...GarySP — 03:13 PM
Video Source for Predicta
You can also source a used VCR and use that as a modulator to feed your DVD source into.TV MAN — 02:57 PM
52-942
Just received my 52-942. Its a handsome set. When I opened the back to examine it I noticed there are not connecting wir...Ken Arroyo — 02:54 PM
Philco 42-345 Restoration/Repair
"Your radio tubes get these voltages from the power transformer secondary windings. The A voltage is supplied by th...osanders0311 — 01:40 PM
Philco 42-345 Restoration/Repair
Please correct me if I am wrong, while working on this radio I noticed under the chassis where the bottom of the tubes p...osanders0311 — 01:28 PM
Philco 42-345 Restoration/Repair
"BTW there's a 2.2k resistor from B+ to one of the XXL tubes so you have to identify those resistors before you rep...osanders0311 — 01:04 PM
Philco 42-345 Restoration/Repair
BTW there's a 2.2k resistor from B+ to one of the XXL tubes so you have to identify those resistors before you replace t...RodB — 11:08 AM
Philco 42-345 Restoration/Repair
Okey dokey, let's get on the wayback machine. Back when radios were running on batteries, they were powered by three DC ...RodB — 10:34 AM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 804 online users. [Complete List]
» 1 Member(s) | 803 Guest(s)
Avatar

>