[morzh]

Well.....I got a new Klein screwdriver; it and PB Blaster, and a bit of WD40 helped.
Not quite the way I thought they would, but they did.

The screwdriver came yesterday.

Yesterday I put a little WD40 on the screw just for good measure.....
Today having the screwdriver I felt ready.
I dripped a bit more PB Blaster on the screw, put the Klein screwdriver in it....no luck. I even think the tip (which I thought on photos looked quite thick and turned out to be razor thin) started to warp a little.
I took out my Kobalt screwdriver that did not work and was twisted, untwisted it some using vise...
What happend next was, well, the screw would not budge, and eventually the screwdriver lunged past it, having slipped out of the damaged slot and almost having punctured my finger, and...I felt the hub rotating around its axis.

I pulled it, and it just came off.
The screw also was then easily removed. It is M3 set screw, a very popular size, so should be easy to replace.

So, yes, it came off and I rewarded myself with a Warsteiner.

Considering I also found and bought the belts for the CD player, not too bad.

[morzh]

It is coming to either me ordering the Italian built idler, which many praise, or rebuilding mine, which is much cheaper but then many say it is not as good.

[KCMike]

Mike if you don't mind saying. What is the cost for the rebuilt idler from VOM? I know the Italian one is pretty expensive.
Sounds like getting the idler off was a challenge.

[morzh]

Mike

It is more or less $28 as shown there.
Then there is Terry's rubber rollers, I think it is around $35.

I decided for Audiosilente as it has many reviews, none of them negative and many saying it is better than the original. A few forum members who respond to my thread also recommended it.

[morzh]

Took the spindle apart. Lots of greenish oil inside, don't know if new or old, didn't bother to find out, cleaned it off.
I have German Kluber oil for sintered bronze, used in cassette decks (specifically on Naks).
Though many recommend Schopper oil, considering all the recommended oils are for cintered bronze against polished steel shafts, I think it'll do fine. Spindle feels nice.

Ordered grommets for the motor, I thought mine were not correct, they looked like usual bobbin type while I need those with the top part cone-shaped.

Took the motor off. Only had to desolder two things: resistor and a wire from the cable.
Better than all 6 colored wires, same colours times two, so photo wouldn't be enough, would have to label.

The set screws came out easy.
The pulley is not coming off.
I certainly do not want to pry it off, let alone there is nothing to pry it against: thin metal plate, already bent...
So I am administering penetraiting oil drip. Hoping it'll come off, same way the idler did.

The grommets which I thought were flat silicone, are ideed cone-shaped on top but are so soft they were mushed by motor weight into looking like the bobbin type. Let me put new ones in anyway.

[morzh]

I thought of waiting another day for the PB Blaster to work, but realized I am against a long shaft inside the pulley, so I would be better off holding the shaft and twisting the pulley instead of just trying to pull it off.

So..I took stubby needlnose pliers that could get to the shaft (space between the triangular plate and the motor cover is narrow). To not scratch the shaft I took two thin wood chips, taped them to the tips of the needlenose (just to hold them in place 'till I reach the shaft), 

   

then inserted them between the plate and cover, squeezed,  twisted the pulley and it came off.

Then I straightened up the bent plate using two pieces of wood and a vise, and finished flattening between two large allen wrenches as anvils inside the vise. It is as straight as it has ever been.

   
   
   

Then I took the motor apart, cleaned the bushings, put Kluber oil inside.
Reassembled the motor.
I will put it back when the grommets come.

[morzh]

Some sellers on eBay are nice folks.

I ordered the idler from Italy, ordered Friday. The seller, Simone, said he would ship Monday and upgraded the shipping for FedEx.
It came just now, Wednesday morning.
What can I say...I am yet to see the idler but it does have stellar reputation, so short of shipping damage.....
It is desinfecting in the garage (I am still waiting for grommets anyway).

[morzh]

Tried to install everything back.
The idler's bushing is a bit taller than the original one and so there's less space on the axis left for the fixing hub with the set screws.
Hopefully it is still enough to grip.

I have just found out why it is that one screw was loose and the other overtightened: the loose s rew is not in tact a set screw, or at least not an original type; it has a non-threaded head and the threaded part length is shorter than the hub's thickness, so it simply doesn't go through and grab onto the axis.

   


So they overtightened the remaining screw. Which is now a bit mangled, so I will have to get a new pair of M3 set screws.

[morzh]

I was told I do not need to install that hub by the mfr of the idler.

So, I put the flywheel in....does not go up to speed.
Wiped inner rim with alcohol, as I saw old traces of rubber on it.
Suddenly it works.

Now there is light knocking when the motor runs the stepped pulley, whether with flywheel disk or not. No knocking when the motor runs alone.

Time to borrow my wife's stethoscope (the automotive would be better as it has that long pin, but beggrars can't be choosers).

[thirtiesradio]

Hi Mike.
Hope you got your TD124 working! 

I've been using one I restored for a couple years now. I did a full rebuild and installed a new main bearing. Also completely disassembled every part including the motor. I have a Garrard 301 as well. 

Here's a photo of my TD124 when first rebuilt. I now use an Ortofon RMG212 arm instead of the SME. I do use an early 12" SME arm on the Garrard.

Best of luck with your Thoren's Mike!

   

[morzh]

I am about to try to restore my Rekokut tone arm.
Well...I have it, might as well use it.
People say it is good.
Restoring meaning rewiring.
Then we'll see.

[thirtiesradio]

How did your arm come out Mike?

[morzh]

I was thinking about how to proceed, and since I was not ready with my decision, I switched to 14LZX and Grundig for now.
I came to the decision to try taking a stereo RCA pair (I have one decent thick cable which I will sacrifice for that), tying it to the base, then threading the wires through and, after having acquired a cartridge, mount it.
But now I have to finish the Grundig first and, if I feel more like radios, maybe another one or two models I have in line for restoration.