That looks like some funny man's idea of a fuse, a wire with a bolt wrapped around it bypassing the fuse holder. I could be wrong but that does NOT look original. The Good All caps are garbage, just like the plastic molded paper caps, so best to replace them all.
Regards
Arran
Black Beauty Alert! Arran is right, looks like someone rigged this. You have the correct idea though. Looks like you have the schematic, take lots of before pictures and begin replacing everything that is not to the schematic. I like the radio though, '50's utilitarian.
Joe
Matthew 16:26 "For what does it profit a man if he gain the whole world, yet lose his own soul?"
In honor of Skip's project I grabbed a Gooney out of the garage and started on it. Replaced some caps cleaned it up a bit and was rewarded with a working set that makes about 30w of AM. A buddy has some knobs for it. Still needs some more cleaning and a volume control. Band conditions up on 10mtrs are pretty poor so I'm in no big rush. It's circa 1958, that's a change most of the time I'm younger that the sets I've been working on!
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
(This post was last modified: 04-09-2017, 07:31 PM by Radioroslyn.)
Looks great Terry.. But its a 10 meter one. Mine is a 6 meter one. Joe has a 6 meter one in the house that we went up to. Will probably get that one too..
Anyway.. Back to the power supply..hear is the schematic I have..
Major difference is 2 things. My B- from power supply goes no where... and my 80 uf 300 volt cap is grounded.. Well were not exactly true a Blk lead from Transformer goes to a Rectifier , cap and coil and a 100 uf 150 Volt cap to where the B- is supposed to go to TX.. Also I have NO 10 uF 250 Volt cap..
Also noticed the 80 uf 300 volt cap is not polarized? can I use a electrolytic one there?
What you have is a voltage double circuit. On the gonset schematic Pin 6 is the HV. Pin 4 is - bias. Pin 3 is B-/chassis ground. The 80mf cap is the filter for the HV and IS polarized (+ to HV - to chassis).
On your schematic there is no - bias. The junction of the 2 -150v caps is NOT B-. It = 1/2 of the B+ voltage. There is no connection like this on the original.
Boy the Gonset schematic is Awful!!!!!!!!!!!!! Couldn't put the whole thing on 1 pg!!!!!!!
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
(This post was last modified: 04-10-2017, 12:04 AM by Radioroslyn.)
I think that I would try to put it back to the way it's shown on the schematic, someone's been playing around inside this set, possibly a Ham who thought his license was an engineer's certificate. That bolt with the wire wrapped around was bad enough, now it looks like they replaced a six pin plug and socket with five pin ones on the power supply. There is almost no point in trying to trace this out, it's like any other hacked up wiring job, there is no guarantee that the last guy who had his soldering iron in there knew what he was doing, or that it even worked afterward.
Regards
Arran
Question about the .5 UF 50 Volt caps..can they be replaced with 0ne .5 uf cap?
See schematic.. in previous posts
There are 2 terminals coming out on both sides. 2 are shorted together and grounded. Other 2 are not But when measuring from one to other its a short. but from either one to the shorted ones it measured .5 uf ..
why would they do this ?? seems like you could use just one cap..
>Question about the .5 UF 50 Volt caps..can they be replaced with 0ne .5 uf cap?
No because the 2 of them in parallel =1uf.
>why would they do this ??
It looks to be a filter to eliminate vibrator noise from getting back into the dc power source (6v or 12v). SW201 is the power switch. A switches the 120vac when it's being powered from the AC line. B switches the power from the DC source. If you are not going to use it in your car I wouldn't lose any sleep over it.
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
(This post was last modified: 04-11-2017, 10:54 AM by Radioroslyn.)
OK, Finally replaced all the Caps in power supply and RX and TX.. I left the rest of power supply as found..Turned on and I get a load hum. I do get audio over the hum but I can still tell its there..Rx and TX works. TX puts out about 8 watts.. The RX meter pegged to the left on RX works on TX both Exciter and Output..
(04-12-2017, 11:44 PM)vecher Wrote: But how do I get rid of Load HUM...
If you pull the audio output tube does the hum level change??
On the guess meter there probably is an adjustment pot to set it at 0.
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
(04-13-2017, 08:07 PM)vecher Wrote: I just measured the B+ voltage.. It reads 350 Volts.. Looks high.. As the TX schematic say B+ should be +200 Volts on RX and +250 volts on TX..
So where are you measuring the B+??
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
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