Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Toner question
#1

I'm wondering about what the best approach is for darkening the base moulding and pillars on a properly refinished Philco 90. By proper, I mean it was done with spray lacquer. To my eye, having looked at many pictures, the two areas mentioned are to light. 
Can someone walk me thru from where am am to the finish??
#2

Do you mean that your 90 has already been refinished but you are not happy with the darkness of the molding and pillars and want to do something to darken it? Can you post of photo to better help folks to judge what to do. Be aware you may get multiple opinions of what to do next Icon_biggrin

How to post pics.
#3

Here is a current photo.
#4

ah..yes it looks like the original finish was stripped off and then clear lacquer was applied to the stripped wood without any toner being applied.

I've restored a Philco 50 which used a 70 cabinet which has a similar look to a 90. I used Mohawk Ultra Classic Medium Brown Walnut on the front arch and Mohawk Ultra Classic Perfect Brown on the rest. then it was all coated with several coats of Deft Clear gloss lacquer available in most hardware stores.

As to going about fixing your set I think the guys that have more cabinet experience will offer the best advice.

It may be possible to add toner over top of the lacquer layers you already have and then apply additional clear gloss over the toner. I've never done it so I can't say how it will turn out. If it fails you've only lost the time and cost of the toner/lacquer. You can re-strip it and start the process over.
#5

Thanks Bob! My hope is that I can do as you describe and obtain a good result.
#6

IF that is lacquer already on the radio, it will work.

Study the shading on a good example before you start. Go light on the toner until the color you want is achieved.

"I just might turn into smoke, but I feel fine"
http://www.russoldradios.com/
#7

I haven't refinished a 90 myself but this thread from ARF has a very detailed walk through of the process:

http://antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtopi...7&t=220363

It's pretty long so you may want to skip to the toner step:
http://antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtopi...3&start=80
#8

I'm certain that it was finished with lacquer, so I'll mask off the top, sides and arch and see what I get. I have
#9

Mohawk ultra perfect brown, and extra dark walnut
#10

Thanks for chiming in Russ (phlogiston) I was hoping you would add a comment. I wasn't sure how toner over the clear would do. Good to know.
#11

Sam, the solvents in any lacquer product partially melt the existing layer of material. This is more so on lacquer that is months old as compared to 40 years old. So the "coats" blend together or bond together. BUT the toner coat is VERY fragile and can be easily scratched. This is why I never sand a toner coat, not to mention the disaster it would bring as far as light and dark spots. Put on the toner and then add several clear top coats before doing anything else.

"I just might turn into smoke, but I feel fine"
http://www.russoldradios.com/
#12

Thank all of you for the advice and information! Upon more careful inspection of the cabinet, I've decided to re-do the entire thing. (Maybe I'm just a glutton for punishment, but I think I can do this!) I'll strip the cabinet tomorrow.
I've read several threads and I know there are probably as many ways to do this as there are people on the forum. My plan is to strip it, grain-fill, toner, then numerous finish coats. I'm I missing anything critical? I've read various things about "sealing" the cabinet, but I'm not sure when this is necessary and with what product.
#13

Some grain fillers apparently can stain the wood as well as fill the grain. Applying the lacquer sanding sealer before grain filling help eliminate that staining issue. I don't recall which grain filler folks were talking about having the issue.
#14

Tinted clay-type filler like Por-o-pac. If you are going to seal it first use Crystal-lac (clear, needs no tint).

Let me caution you, the first time most people use ANY grain filler usually leads to some cursing.

"I just might turn into smoke, but I feel fine"
http://www.russoldradios.com/
#15

Russ, its more often than just the first time.... Icon_lol




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Philco 46-420 Code 121 Reception issues
You mentioned the Philco manual and going through the check points...just to be sure we're on the same page here's the m...klondike98 — 08:13 PM
Philco 42-1008 conversion kit
Interesting. I haven't seen that before.klondike98 — 07:02 PM
12' Philco
Yes I had looked for it on the web as well some time back and could not find it. I was glad to see it turned up in Ron'...klondike98 — 06:59 PM
Shadow Meter Bulb
Now if you had a set with a tuning light then the bulb type is important to the circuit, some sets used those prior to t...Arran — 04:58 PM
Shadow Meter Bulb
Ok. Thanks for the correction.RossH — 03:09 PM
Model 28L
For 28 you will probably need to buy a Hammond 125CSE. Or any of the series of the power you need, with SE suffix. Then ...morzh — 02:09 PM
37-60 revision 6
I am restoring a Philco 37-60 and it shows run 6 they removed the ground from G3 of the 6K7G and put the G3 to -2.5v for...bobbyd1200 — 01:01 PM
Shadow Meter Bulb
Mike is correct on the bulb connection, two separate circuits. I found that by rotating the bulb and sliding it forward ...RodB — 12:19 PM
Hickok AC51 tube tester
Cleaned ann contacts, switches and sockets, works great now.martinj — 11:32 AM
Model 28L
Hello, I'm restoring a Philco 28L and the output transformer is open. Part number of the transformer is 32-7020. Can...HORSTE — 10:32 AM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 7652 online users. [Complete List]
» 1 Member(s) | 7651 Guest(s)
Avatar

>