[Greggshere]

I guess I probably should have tested my transformer first, but I guess I'm a backwards sort of guy anyway. So I have it off on the bench and I have the two black leads which I assume are the AC in, two bluish green wires, two red wires, two white wires, two yellow wires and one brown and one green.
I'm assuming the brown and green are the bias wires for the red and yellow leads since my ohm readings are halved by them when testing ohm's. The two black leads have only .3 ohms resistance between them which seems low to me. None of them show shorted to the case. When I hook the two black wires to the variac if I put more than 3 or 4 volts to it my 3 amp meter pegs. Am I checking this correctly or is the transformer bad? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Oh yeah, it's a 32-8248 transformer.

[morzh]

Was the transformer wired before you took it out?
If yes, have you made a diagram of how it was wired ?
To check it you do not need to take it out, most leads will go to no-load circuitry with the tubes out.

I usually check it by inserting V-meter in the rectifier tube's panel between the two plates and supplying it from a Variac into the AC in wires.
Start low, see the voltage going up; if it does, simply move it to 110VAC on the Variac and see if it reaches 500-600VAC between the plates.
After that do the same with the V-meter in the filament's pins in the panel. Should go to the rectifier tube filament voltage (say 5V for 80 tube),
Then leave it on a bit, see if it warms up significantly which it shouldn't.

[Radioroslyn]

Very important to note, mark, or take pics of any part you remove that has more than 2 wires. Saves a lot of confusion later. Some manufacturers do use the RMA color for transformers but Philco isn't one of them. I agree that the resistance is very low for the pri winding. If you aren't sure that the assumed winding is the pri I would have a look the resistances of the other windings. The two filament winding are going the be very low (a couple of ohms) and the HV winding is going to be much higher (like several hundred ohms). What you are looking for is a winding that is perhaps 10-20 ohms I would think. If you find a winding like that power it w/low voltage from your variac
An 80 tube is an old skool 5Y3 w/an octal base. No fat /skinny pin on the bottom. 2 and 8 are the filament and 4 and 6 are connected to the plates.

[morzh]

Even two wires. Might have polarity to it.

[Greggshere]

Thanks gentlemen, yes I did make a diagram and took photos before I took it out. The one black wire was on pin 8 of the rectifier tube and the other black wire was soldered to a chassis ground at the tube base on the next tube over. Based on what Radioroslyn said it might indicate that black wires are probably not the primary since the one was on pin 8. This radio had been gone into by someone previously and I changed the caps and resistors based on the schematic and assumed the actual wiring was most likely correct. That's what I get for assuming. I'll try changing polarity just in case on the black wires and check all the rest again and see what I get.

[Greggshere]

Ok so I got the transformer sorted out, it appears to be ok based on voltage and I got everything identified. Per Radioroslyn, the black wires were NOT the primary wires, the white wires were and they ohm'd out at 4 ohms. The yellow wires are the high voltage wires with a green bias wire, the ohms were only 110 between the two and 53 and 58 ohms between each and the green bias. The schematic shows it is supposed to be 260 ohms between the two yellow wires. The red wires ohm'd out at .8 between them and .6 between each and the brown bias wire. The blue wires ohm'd out at .4 and the black pair at .4 as well.

Under the voltage test, using the WHITE primary wires there was no amp draw obviously because it's on the bench and at 115 VAC I had 6.6 VAC on the black pair, 5 VAC on the blue pair, 6.5 VAC on the red pair and 680 VAC on the yellow pair. Based on the voltage output it would appear the transformer is performing correctly? I do not understand why the high voltage pair only ohm at 110 when the schematic shows them at 260 ohm's. What are the groups thoughts on this?

[Radioroslyn]

> high voltage pair only ohm at 110 when the schematic shows them at 260 ohm's.

I suspect that you are only measuring one side of the HV winding. Originally the wires connected to pins 4 and 6 of 5Y3 should give you the total resistance of the HV winding. There may be a separate wire connected to the midpoint of the HV (aka center tap or ct) or it maybe internal to the transformer. W/the transformer reinstalled and wired in measure the ac voltage from the chassis to pin 4 and then pin 6 with the 5Y3 removed. Voltage must be fairly equal within a volt or two near 340vac.

RMA wiring would have the blk as the pri, red HV/red yellow ct, yellow 5v fil, grn 6v fil and grey or brown as the 2nd 6v fil.

[Greggshere]

Thanks Terry, I'll reinstall it tomorrow and see what I come up with for voltages. I also got the Sam Photofacts for the set today 22-23, so hopefully those will also help me along.

[Radioroslyn]

Be advised that the Sam's information is the same as the Philco service bulletin as it all emanated from the same source. Sam's will have a redrawn schematic, sometimes a little easier to follow. The parts reference numbers on the schematic will be different which can be confusing when asking technical questions.
I did find a error in the Philco sb, the heater connections on the 6V6's appear to be in series but they should be in parallel.

[Greggshere]

I got the transformer all installed properly and it appears to be working ok now. I did find one wiring issue in my job of recapping where I put the C103 negative to ground instead of the opposite end of R100 resistor. Once I corrected this and installed a new C103 I now have power that I didn't have previously, only now I have too much voltage. Terry I measured from pin 4 & pin 6 with the 5Y3 removed and I got 333 volts on each. My problem is that when I start troubleshooting section one and step 1 & 2 I have way too much voltage, over 600 volts with each of the three tests. This is with all tubes in place and the radio set up as indicated in that section. Before finding my issue with C103 I had basically only about 6 volts in these tests.
R100 tests good, L100 tests good and I haven't yet tested T200. Anything else I need to be looking at? I have the High voltage green bias wire hooked to the R100 end with the negative of the C103. I'm not sure what I am missing here to have such high voltages. Any help is appreciated.

[morzh]

When you measure with the tubes in, you need to measure the DC voltages after the rectifier; I am sure you won't see anything close to 600V.
If you keep measuring between the plates though, the AC voltage, it will still be around 600V which is normal.

[Greggshere]

Hi everyone, I got back down to the workshop and took the readings again this time on DC and the following is what I came up with.

Step 1- E to C= 175 DCV, D to C= 253 DCV    Almost opposite as to what they should be.

Step 2- A to C= 271 DCV   Supposed to be 310 DCV

Step 3- B to C= 0 DCV   Supposed to be -16 DCV

Also for C102A and C102B I used 33uF caps, since I couldn't find the 25uF caps. For C103 I used a 22uF cap (original size). I don't know if the cap size is changing anything. Any ideas as to why my voltages are off? I did check R101 and it checked at 153 ohm's instead of 135 ohm's but that seems within tolerance.

Again, bear with my ignorance, as this is my first attempt at doing a restoration on this sort of project, so I'm learning as I go.

[Radioroslyn]

So what is the resistance btw C-103 - and chassis ground??
You need the -16v to bias the output tubes (6V6's) w/o it they will draw a fair amount of plate current.
Pull out the two 6V6's and see if your HV is about where it should be.

[Greggshere]

Thanks Terry, stupid me, I had R101 wired backward, so no ground. I corrected that and some of the readings look better.
Step 1- E to C= 251 DCV, D to C= 286 DCV

Step 2- A to C= 307 DCV Supposed to be 310 DCV

Step 3- B to C= -12 DCV Supposed to be -16 DCV

With the 6V6 tubes removed I have Pin 2=6.3 ACV, P3=386DCV, P4=386DCV, P5= -2DCV, P6=386DCV, P7 & P8=0

Getting closer but still not right

[Radioroslyn]

Ok your voltages so far look good, bear in mind that you don't have to be exact w/what the schematic notes. If you set in up to receive the AM band and have the loop ant connected are you getting any stations??