[Stall-U-Rated]

"Yaaaaaay" i FINALLY was able to get a moment to myself and put in a cap order to justrads. Managed to find exact uf replacements.. So has anyone had luck with blow dryers or do i need to purchase a heat gun to remove the old innards from the bakelite caps?

Thanks

Steve

[morzh]

Are you talking of the large metal can or small backelite blocks?
Small blocks are easy and have been described many times here and elsewhere, plus Steve made a toolkit.
The large can is a bit of a pain. Chisel, scredriver, hammer, some use hotplates or ovens.

[Steve Davis]

Harbor Freight has a heat gun for $14.99 that will do the job quite well. While you're at it, better get a set of these   http://www.philcoradio.com/phorum/showth...?tid=19091    

Steve

[Stall-U-Rated]

Thanks guys:

Morzh, yep doing BOTH.. Ive read the tutorial here concerning the bakelite overhaul procedure.  I see they added some cool tools since i last read that thread.

Im hoping  im lucky enough the cardboard sleeve in the big can will give up the goods easily, if not, ill keep the chisel handy

Steve: Looks like im going to HF, I just wanted to debunk the hair dryer method before i committed to one..

Steve

[morzh]

Somehow with 16 I was luckier than with 20, but in either case it was messy.

[Stall-U-Rated]

Quick question Do i use the X or the Y safety line caps in this radio? i ordered 2 of both types and i need to contact my supplier and modify the order so i figured ide drop one pair and add a pair of .5 caps i forgot to add...

Thanks

Steve

[klondike98]

X caps are used across the power line, Y caps are used for line to ground applications. See JustRadios ABC's of safety caps information.

[morzh]

What Bob said.

To add, most safety caps today are XY rated. Datasheet will tell you.

[Stall-U-Rated]

They have the X1/Y2 discs in .001--.0022--.0047--.01 sizes... Which value shall i order??

Steve

[Steve Davis]

.01uf would be great.

Steve

[klondike98]

Disposable latex or nitrile gloves are your friend! I use them a lot when cleaning the chassis, stuffing bakelite blocks, etc. They don't work when stripping cabinets...you need something more robust but they are great for the generally dirty tasks.

[Stall-U-Rated]

The old caps are starting to pile up nicely, i have 3 left to do which includes the tone control and the BIG condenser bank. Which brings up a few questions as i explore this radio.

1. Why did they bother to put rubber insulators on the tuning gang mounts if they were going to solder ground leads to the chassis?

2. Anyone have any procedure for removing the condenser bank? as in removing attached parts prior to removal. Or did you remove the bank with external parts still attached to it?

Thanks..

[Radioroslyn]

#1, To help eliminate microphonics.

[Stall-U-Rated]

Well.....THAT was fun... Didnt have to remove the entire unit to replace the guts.. Pretty lucky with the cardboard liner, just slid a knife around the edges and it popped out..
All caps have been replaced... DIG THAT PILE!!  im getting an itch to light it up and check my progress..
The radio has lost some weight as well  

Steve

[Stall-U-Rated]

And so.......I went for it.... Exactly one year to the date that i got the speaker back from Sound Remedy..  

I hooked it up..... Gave it the juice.... Turned the switch on and.... QUIET.......

Moved the band selector and heard it make noise with every click....

Touched the antenna terminal.... And..... TALK RADIO!!!  

So i added a length of wire and it  got louder...   AM band is working right out of the gate, And i do have static noise on the other bands as well..

Still have to get the tuner mounts (theyre present, but sloppy)   And the slow tune is iffy because the drive tires need replacement, but im encouraged by these first signs of life..

Ah, the rush of  hearing an 80 year olds first words  

Steve