[Kestas]

I don't use a dremel. I use a coping saw with the finest blade available.

[Jake Blake]

I don't use a dremel.  I use a coping saw with the finest blade available.

We use what we have.  I had a hack saw.  Maybe I could have done what you suggest ( nibble) with it also, but again, hind-sight
Do you have any pics of your work? How did you disguise the cut there?

[Kestas]

What I used can be considered a small hack saw. After cutting I dress the cut on each side by sanding (or filing) down each side, then rejoining with JB Weld. The cut is disguised by the structure under the cap.

I also prefer this over cutting at the bottom because it makes the can stronger, in case the chassis is handled by the can or if the can is bumped.

[Jake Blake]

What I used can be considered a small hack saw.  After cutting I dress the cut on each side by sanding (or filing) down each side, then rejoining with JB Weld.  The cut is disguised by the structure under the cap.

I also prefer this over cutting at the bottom because it makes the can stronger, in case the chassis is handled by the can or if the can is bumped.

I see.    Ok.  Thanks.

Jake

[Phlogiston]

Jake Blake pid='154526' dateline='1555805590']

If you will cut that cap at the factory crease, just above the base, smooth the cut a little with a grinder (very little) then glue it back together with silver silicon, no one will ever know it was taken apart.

I am doing one right now - usually this style of cap is newer than the radios I prefer to work on - anyway if you would like to see pictures - - -

Yes bud, one pic,... a 1000 words.  I would appreciate it.
...I'm a little confused at what you just said. The crease is at the TOP of these caps, not the bottom. . .  .but I thought you indicated cutting at the base. If I attempt this again, I'm leaning toward favoring cutting at the bottom, which looks like it would facilitate the working of the new caps, as well as enabling a crimping of the base , then fitting the top over the base, covering a lot of sins.    It's clear my drawback was not having a Dremmel-type tool.

That depends on the style of the can. The older ones have the seal/fold/seam at the top, though the oldest ones (Mershon) have the fold at the bottom AND a seal at the top. You must deal with each style in a different way.

These newer style cans are my least favorite to deal with. I just realized that my silver silicone sealer has gone bad. It does not last a year. So I'll seal it up after a trip to the store.

   


   


   


   


   

[jcassity]

I also prefer this over cutting at the bottom because it makes the can stronger, in case the chassis is handled by the can or if the can is bumped.

that's a very note worthy point,, i will change the way i do things not on these caps considering what your saying.


for the record,, i use aluminum exhaust pipe tape for cars to seal up the cut area, just a tiny skinny band.

the reason i cut low was for future access and repairs though, this way i remove the tape and lift off the can.

[jcassity]

Phlogiston

i really like your style using the return bar as a support structure for the caps as well.

[Phlogiston]

Oh, and P.S. - -I have also ground down the lip that secures the base then pulling the innards and base out in one piece with some heat. This is not really hard and the base is reinserted with some glue. I did not do this one that way since it would have required the removal of those resistors which were good - AND - this project really is a  resto-mod for my own use rather than a real restoration.