[rfeenstra]

The dial string does not go around twice.  There is a spring (on mine, it is a double spring) that tensions the cord ( you can see it in one of my pics.)  The Phenolic wheel that the dial cord goes around is spring tensioned against the tuning shaft. This speing does not tension the cord, just presses phenolic cord drive wheel against the drive shaft.

"Where does the nod go?"  Not sure what the question means!

[morzh]

I probably meant "knot".
Hey, it is my second language.

Yep see the spring. Now need to find one.

[morzh]

Rfeenstra

There is that tab there on the dial drum. It looks like the spring really wants to hook at it.
Are you sure the spring grabs at that opening like you show it?

[rfeenstra]

this is the way it was when I got the radio.  I assumed it was original.  The little tab definitely works with the looped or knotted end of the cord.  There is a hole below that tab that I thought the spring would hook into, but it just doesn't work there.  Close examination of the marks on the drum definitely point to the way I have it in the picture.  One of my pre-disassembly pictures shows it this way as well.  The cord is exactly the correct length.  I'm assuming in all of this that the cord is original.  it looks like it is.  The important thing is that it works well!

[morzh]

Good to know, thanks. Tomorrow will try it.

[morzh]

Strung up the tuning mechanism.
I had to wrap the cord twice around the driving pulley, as otherwise no matter how much I made the cord taut, it would slip.
After putting the second loop around it the tuning works fine.


   
   

[rfeenstra]

I'm thinking that the cord on mine is a lot thicker.  Perhaps that makes it wedge into the drive better.

[morzh]

Yes it does look thicker and probably this is why it is. But this is what I have and the two-loop thing cured the deficiency.

[morzh]

Today I grafted the rotor from 37-640 Philco tone control to the 45C. They have the same case. Possibly the shaft is longer in 640 but it will do.

I assembled the radio having installed the tone ctl and the tuning cap, and it was unstable. Then I realized I did not solder back the grid cap wure to the pentagrid. Hmmm....same problem. Then I remembered I have to solder the GND braid to one of the tuning cap screwes.
Then it worked normally.

However. I used the values for the tone ctl PN 30-4178 from Ray Bintliff's book, and it shows the permanently wired cap being 1nF, and then going CW it should engage 10nF and then 20nF in parallel.
So when only 1nF is engaged, the radio whistles, and then when 10nF is parallelled it plays fine with good highs.
So I wonder if the 1nF value is correct.
I will probably have to parallel an extra cap to the control, now that it's potted.

Anyone has the values for the 45, are those correct?

[morzh]

It took me almost 1-1/2 month to get myself by ear and literally drag to the basement to proceed with the radio.
There were delays, distractions, then the vacation, and after vacation I was just ... complacent.
And then Saturday I decided to get the shingles shot and first my hand was sore (to be expected) and then I felt like I have some virus infection - you know, when your skin hurts and the knees are weak etc.
So yesterday on my wobbly knees I went down to the basement and started and finished rebuilding both electrolytic caps. BTW, this is the operation I hate the most.
In the end I was successful, but then the radio refuse to receive stations (which obviously had nothing to do with the power caps) so I found some bad connection of the 6A7 - it took quite a bit of wiggling and rocking in the socket. Well, my workshop is a bit damp. And running dehumidifier in it would add the 3rd one to the bill. This could explain it. Anyways, in the end it started receiving well across the dial.

I have to say, this fairly small speaker, even without the cabinet, plus the cone has been repaired with the rubber cement at the rippled part, this speaker really sounds well. I had some bigger radios with bigger speakers that don't sound as good.

If I am ok this week, some time about Wednesday I will attempt the alignment.

Which brings me to this question: what end of the dial should have the aligned grade with the light pointer when fully meshed or unmeshed: the upper or the bottom one? Right now my upper end is aligned when the cap is fully meshed, but the lower goes about 1/3" below the light pointer (beyond the scale) when unmeshed.

Mike.

[rfeenstra]

That's the way I have mine set.  The pointer lines up with the 53 mark and goes way beyond the 1700 mark.  Tracking is quite good across the dial.

I had a similar reaction to the sound of the radio.  It sounds better than it should.

[morzh]

Thanks!

My dial shows 1200kHz where it should be 1160 (the local station) so I do not know if the alignment would be able to move it that much so it behaves well through the whole alignment (sometimes what works for oscillator trimmers does not work for the antenna padders etc).

But I will try to align first and then see if I want to move the wheel just a little.

[Paul Philco322]

Have you had shingles, good to get a shot, those sets are cool. while some radios from a manufacturer have similar looks the Butterfly has a pretty unique look. 

Hope you feel better. 

Paul

[morzh]

Paul,

Yeah I am better now, thanks.
I had chicken pox when I was 4 or 5, and then shingles when 15. I don't want this to happen again, even what I had was a fairly mild case.

Hence the vaccine.
Whatever I feel as sideffects, which are pretty mild, doesn't even start to compare with even mildest case of shingles. Totally worth it.

[Paul Philco322]

I was about 50 and had a bad case of shingles, worse pain I have had, even after surgery is not as bad, I too later got the shot and was told if not on my insurance would be expensive, never got a bill and I was certainly not calling too see if they forgot. 

Be well, finish the Butterfly. 

Paul