[mikethedruid]

Thanks for the link, Ron !

[mikethedruid]

For the recommended technique for dealing with the alignment with the chassis out of the cabinet, see page 15-60 Philco of those shown on Nostagia Air. This is very similar to the setup for aligning my 38-482, where you make a marked paper and tape it to the backplate.

[Ron Ramirez]

Obviously it is a 6.3 volt filament circuit which the dial lamps are connected to.

Now, you are probably wondering what the Philco part number of the dial lamps corresponds to.

34-2040 corresponds to a type 51 lamp - 7.5V, 200 mA.

If they will fit, the LED lamps I suggested earlier will be a better replacement.

There is another lamp used to illuminate the phonograph bin - 34-2484, which corresponds to one of those 117 volt night light bulbs. Again, here I would use an LED replacement night light bulb - it will run cooler, draw less current, and last much longer.

I found this information in the 1949 Philco parts catalog, which is also in the Philco Library.
https://philcoradio.com/library/download...201949.pdf

Nathan has worked very hard to make all of this available as part of this website. Please, folks, consider looking in the Library before going elsewhere. And drop a "Thank you" note to Nathan while you're at it.

[morzh]

Ron

I took one more look at the burnt out lamp I have, which I thought said "54". Now that I took a better look - it is 51.

Thanks for the research, that will help quite a bit.


BTW they say that in Run 11 they replaced 110V lamp with 6V lamp 34-2039. This seems to be my case as when I looked at the two external sockets, they both are connected to 6.3V and not to 110V. I was wondering myself about it (from the sch where it is connected to 110V) how they made it safe. Looking at the harness it would be far from safe were it connected to the 110V. Luckily I think I only need 6.3V jobs there.

[morzh]

Nathan

Indeed, thanks for the great job you've done systemathizing documents we have here in the library.
It is a monumental task.

Cheers!

[Ron Ramirez]

Hmmm.

34-2039 corresponds to a type 55 lamp - 7.5V @ 400 mA. What was Philco thinking? That would barely illuminate the phonograph bin, although it would be safer electrically as you noted, Mike.

[PaulJames1959]

I am new to the Philco Phorum and new to the world of vintage radio restoration but here goes....
Far from a full-time pursuit; but, I too have just (barely) started restoring a Philco 46-1213.
As part of this restoration, I should replace the existing 12" speaker of which the cone is badly damaged (... and who knows what else!).
I understand that I can have the speaker restored including re-coning; but, for now, I believe I would rather replace it looking to hear this Radio-Phonograph as near as possible to the way it was intended to sound in 1946. Your comment on this choice is welcome.
So ... Please direct me to most likely sources of an actual Philco 36-1606 replacement part; or let me know if you(?) have one in stock.
I understand that I may have to settle for a "best match" replacement [from either vintage/used or newly manufactured(?)] so some direction on that would help as well.
Of course I still may not find exactly what I am looking for so, also, if there is a source for vintage speaker repair/restoration that you feel you can recommend please let me know.
Here's the spec. info I have:

Speaker Part No.: 36-1606
Speaker Type: Electro Magnetic Dynamic LS (moving-coil with field excitation coil)
Field Coil: 450 ohm
Hum-Bucking Coil: 0.2 ohm
Voice Coil: 3.3 ohm

Thank you.

[morzh]

I would simply re-cone the speaker. If you really think that you will hear it as near as possible to the way it was intended to sound in 1946, I have to disappoint you - you won't.
These speakers were in essence modern ones and do not sound a whole lot different from a speaker of the same type from 1960-s.
You will receive nothing but the cone (and possibly spider as the come together) of a proper size that is not likely to drastically change the acoustic characteristics to such a degree that, given the radio it is driven by you would notice much.
Also if you bought an original speaker, the speaker will be 75 years old, and that alone also changes certain things so, at least in theory, it won't sound as it did in 1946.
Plus you might have small rips (like I have) or de-centering, or....or and those all will require mending, and those things will also alter the sound somewhat.
I strongly recommend re-coning; also you are likely to pay more for the speaker than for the se-coning.

[morzh]

Does anyone have a good experience aligning FM on this radio or similar ones?

I attempted the alignment; nothing really worked the way the guide says.

First it wants to put un-modulated 9.1MHz into the grid of FM1000 tube.
Then put the tuning into a "quiet position".
It says I should hear beatings and should minimize them.
OK, I heard them not.
Then I decided that it is possible the cap is aligned such that I already have no beatings; then I should put AM modulated signal, also 9.1MHz and I should hear the sound, then find two peaks and align to the minimum between them. I did not hear anything, except in two points on the dial.

OK then they said to measure the AVC with the unmodualted 9.1MHz and align to maximum value. Trimming the cap did not change the AVC voltage value at all.

All in all, now what reception I had had before, I have no longer.

I have never aligned an FM, this is my first.
Any good advice/tricks/etc?

[morzh]

In short I was able to align it.
Works now.

Involved the scope to see the distortion while adjusting the caps.

Receives way many more stations than it did, plus louder.
Need to check outside the basement and with its own antenna.

[morzh]

Noticed the stations were not coming as good. I decided to align by ear, only the tuning cap trimmers. It helped, and now the FM band is teaming with stations.



Anyhow.

I am trying to understand the turntable.

Here are the pictures:


   
   


Questions

What are these long screws going through? I think they do not let the tray to slide out.
Should the tray slide out? Without the screws the tray will be separated from the metal tray.
But if it is not supposed to slide out, what are the joints that seem to be there to allow to pull it out?

[RodB]

Could they be leveling screws?

[morzh]

Could be. But they go through that wooden shelf and I think it is attached to the cabinet.

[morzh]

This changer is in the radio. I am not sure it is the original one. You could see how it is twist-wired to the cable.
Also the capacitor of 0.01uF is wired between the Chassis wire and the motor's screw instead of going there direct;y. The cap is Sprague and
not a Philco.

Does anyone know this changer and if this is the one that was used in this radio originally?



   
   
   
   
   

[morzh]

Two more.