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Philco 16B
#1

Going to start on this.. 

1st Question  One of the backlite blocks .. the number is  3615-AS  I cannot find that number listed anywhere..  Am I missing something?

2nd question  my radio had a type 80 tube as rectifier.. How do I know for sure that's what its supposed to be there and not the 5Y3??  Both use the same socket..

Thanks

Skip
#2

I found the answer here:

https://www.philcorepairbench.com/bakeli...ondensers/

It contains a .05 uf condenser and a 250 ohm wire resistor.
#3

Question 2 Ans. You can't fit a 5Y3 into the same socket as an 80. The 80 is a four pin socket and a 5Y3 is an octal base with 5 pins. The 5Z3 may be the substitute for the 80.
#4

The resistor in the bakelite block is a hank of wire, it is as good as you can get, if in good condition, I would just reinstall it.  Since this is a 16B, the rectifier is a type 80. If this were a 16X the rectifier would be a 5Z3. You would not want to use a 5z3 in your chassis, because the higher filament current would stress the power transformer.  The 16 chassis used in console models, had a more robust transformer.

Steve

M R Radios   C M Tubes
#5

+1 what Steve mentioned about the resistor wire. If it ohms out close enough reuse it. One I rebuilt had fish paper wrapped around it, then stuffed into the bakelight casing. In my case it was looking less than reliable, so I replaced it with a 250 ohm 1 watt resistor. (probably could have used a 1/2 watt) Take care and BE HEALTHY! Gary

"Don't pity the dead, pity the living, above all, those living without love."
Professor Albus Dumbledore
Gary - Westland Michigan
#6

Next Question.. The grommets for the tuning cap.. what size and where can you get them

Skip
#7

Hello Skip,
well Far as the grommets there is a guy who makes new ones, but the business changed hands and the new website is not up and running yet but, on that website, he sold everything from grommets to radio knobs .

Sincerely Richard
#8

Hi Skip, I ran into a similar problem with the 66B I restored some months ago. I ended up buying grommets from the local auto parts store which would fit nicely in the holes in the chassis for the originals. They turned out to work OK. By fit, I mean the slot on the grommet fits nicely into the hole in the chassis, with rubber above and below. You have to kind of squish them and work them in for them to fit, but once they are in the mounting screw for the condenser fits through the hole.
#9

Ok There are 2 capacitors that are green in color Number 30-4020-X no values on them and cannot find them listed on schematic..

Any clue?

Skip
#10

30-4020 is a .05 uF 200V paper cap, according to the Philco parts book. What circuits are they connected to?

https://philcoradio.com/library/download...201936.pdf
#11

How do you leave the original good resistor intact in the bakelite block when replacing the capacitor? I imagine the only choice is to snip one lead from the capacitor and put the new one on the outside.
#12

You don't. You just replace all the parts in the block with new ones attached to the appropriate terminals and wired correctly internally.
#13

hello Kestas ,
Well, I did exactly what mike said!

Skip, here is a good article on how to rebuild those Bakelite blocks

https://philcoradio.com/library/index.ph...soldering/

Sincerely Richard
#14

OK All, My OSC is not working on 11-13 Mhz.. above 13 Mhz everything works fine all other bands work..

its the last band 11-23 mhz.. anyone run into this problem?

Skip
#15

Just to put a conclusion on this thread Skip and I were discussing the problem over the phone. And it ended up being a uncooperative band switch contact. So the set did get fixed and is working dandy. That was a month or so ago.

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry




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