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Philco 86
#16

Thanks Gary,
I went ahead and applied citrus strip on the worst part, cleaned and let dry. I then alternated using sanding sealer and 800 grit to get most of the reddish parts off. Today I will try to re-tint the legs, maybe with the light walnut. I didn't know about the 0000 not taking the shine off. I will post a new pic later today.
Thanks again for your help.
George
#17

Applied some light walnut, but it is shinny. What grade of steel wool would take the shine off but not the finish?    
#18

You can buff it lightly with 0000 and it will have a satin finish. Buff with the grain. Try it first in an out of sight spot.
#19

Also bear in mind that toning lacquer is not meant to be a finish coat, but only a colorant. After toning, the cabinet needs to be sprayed with clear lacquer of your choice (satin, semi-gloss or gloss).

Did you reinforce that leg in some way? If not it is just going to break again, and quickly.

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#20

Hello George,
I hope that Leg holds up far as strength goes!

Sincerely Richard
#21

Thanks for the inputs. When I mounted the leg back on, I put a wooden dowel in the leg and cabinet. Question, If I can't get all the shiny out would it look OK if I used a high gloss topcoat on the cabinet?
#22

Regarding the toner: Again, it is not a topcoat. It is merely a colorant.

To get the level of shine (or lack thereof), your finish coats of clear lacquer will do that. Select your choice of satin, semi-gloss, or high gloss.

The cabinet probably would have had a high gloss finish originally.

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#23

Thanks Ron,
I think I will use clear Gloss instead of semi-gloss as the top coat. It doesn't look like I can get the shine lighter, maybe the gloss will help it blend in better. The legs still aren't exactly like the back ones but will do. Now I need to learn how to replace some of the broken veneer and new grill cloth. Pic to be posted later today I hope. You guys are sure a wealth of info for newbies like me.
George
#24

I applied some clear gloss on the legs and think I will leave them as is. Next to the rest of the cabinet.


Attached Files Image(s)
   
#25

A little more progress, bear in mind I am not trying to make it look new, just decent. Ordered some veneer hopefully I can do it ok, especially on the speaker grill.
George


Attached Files Image(s)
   
#26

I'd say it's shaping up nicely- BTW your pics loaded VERY slowly on this end. Maybe a problem or not?
Simon
#27

That's a nice looking repair, George. I also do not need to get a radio to look pristine or like it just came out of the box. My feeling is that a radio that has a 70-90 year history will usually look it. I like clean and complete, but not necessarily perfection. I certainly don't look like I did when I was new, so why should my radios?!?! I believe a radio that's used looks it! Take care and BE HEALTHY! Gary

"Don't pity the dead, pity the living, above all, those living without love."
Professor Albus Dumbledore
Gary - Westland Michigan
#28

Thanks to you both for the kind remarks. I really think it's important to keep these old treasures around. Still learning but enjoy this hobby.
George
#29

I got some walnut 1/16" veneer from Constantines, but I cannot apply it to the insides of the grill piece. Every time I try to cut it from a template it cracks. This is driving me nuts. I can cut straight lines with tape on the backside but not the curved cuts I need. I'm about ready to give up and take it to someone who restores old furniture. Does anyone have a good way of doing this? I'm talking about the scroll cuts in the middle of the grill opening.
Thanks,
George
#30

I'm not the best guy to answer this as I've only done a limited amount of reveneering but you might consider putting a piece of veneer over the entire grill. Once its glued to the grill you carefully trim away the veneer that is not glued to the grill. Hopefully someone who has more experience with it will chime in here as well.




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