[morzh]

https://grandbrass.com/18-5-brown-cloth-...2054436765


This is brown cloth-covered 5-conductor cable. Exact same that goes into AK10A.
Mine is usable but if I wanted to solder/unsolder it, it is brittle and hardened. And the copper is oxidized.

I need 12' (measured 11-1/2').

The cable itself is 3/8".
the depth where the cable enters the board is 13/16" - 13/64 milled down at the bottom.

[radiorich]

Hello mike,
That Where I buy my cloth cords and PVC modern cords and lamp parts I have been buying from them for years they are great company with good products and prices .

Sincerely Richard

[morzh]

Rich

Yes, they have very good reviews, and they seem to be a very old venerable company in this business. Yesterday I went and bought this cord. At $1.00 or so a foot, 12 feet is not bad at all; if it werent another 9 bucks for shipping, would be just supercheap. I wonder why they don't sell on Amazon.

I also need some glossy fiberglass insulation for those wires going to the amp: the old one is all cracked.

[MrFixr55]

Hi Morzh, 

Joseph left a post about "spaghetti" insulation available from Amplified Parts (formally Antique Electric Supply).  Attached here is a picture of it.  
   

You will find it on their website under "wire"


It may be a little "newer" than what A-K used, but certainly more period correct than heat shrink tubing.  Just make believe that the radio was restored in 1939.

[morzh]

I bought this from Amazon

I bought this on Amazon. @ $.046 a foot

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082KG5BY7?ref...title&th=1

   


Seems to be the same stuff. Only I get free shipping from Amazon and it will be here tomorrow.

BTW the black on AES is actually 0.82c a foot.

[morzh]

OK. Today the sleeving came.

Here it is.

   



Now the Howard results.
As I said, the closest one color-wise was Mahogany.
I am not a fan of the result. Where the lacquer was present, it is shiny, where it was not, it is dull.

   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   

These are the before and after under the amp side-by-side:
         


The place under the potentiometer was looking burnt when I removed i t, and I am still not sure what it is. Almost looks like the factory figured the defect will never be discovered. The potentiometer itself is good.
My theory: it was misassembled, the pot burned, charred the board; they replaced it and that was it.

   


Maybe Howard was not what was needed for this one. So I am not sure, should I refinish it or not. I have no experience in wood refinishing.
Up close when all is mounted it won't strike the eye as much, but the result is far from perfect.

[MrFixr55]

I wonder how much a furniture refinisher would charge. Otherwise, you can try to sand, stain, varnish and finish polish an invisible area, such as under an island, coil or cap can and see how it turns out. If comfortable with the results, then do the same to the whole board. The area under the 3 tube island First shot of it is beautiful! Restore to original or love the "patina". Your decision alone.

[morzh]

Thing is, it is winter, so all has to be done in the basement. Which then will spread the smell to the rest of the house.
And the basement is not very warm.
I'd love to refinish it.
I take it, judging from the area with the original finish preserved, it was high gloss mahofganyg finish.

Another thing I could do (probably gonna cost me) is to find a furniture restoration business around (actually I did look some time ago and found some with very good reviews) and ask them to refinish it.

Patina...at some point I will feel like refinishing and then I will have to unsolder all again. Don't want to do it.
So lemme try to find that furniture workshop.

[radiorich]

Hello mike,
glad it's just a small item not like a antique desk or dresser to refinish and no fancy grille work like with old radio cabinet.
Sincerely Richard

[morzh]

Actually I could try to kill one bird with two stones...oh, wait...it is to kill one stone with two birds. Anywho.
There are a couple of reputable shops nearby who restore antique furniture. If the one I pick does this one right, I might ask them to do the radiobar. If they provide the haul.

[Arran]

Mike;
I have no way of knowing for sure but this set may be old enough that the mahogany board was finished with shellac rather then lacquer, if shellac it may react differently then lacquer to this stuff. Still I would have a go at cleaning the Howards off, if it is actually an oil based product and not a "refinisher" refinishers are usually acetone based, sometimes with a bit of lacquer thrown in, and will redissolve an existing finish with the idea that you can spread it around to cover the bare spots. If it is oil based you should be able to get it off with mineral spirits/varsol or even kerosene if you have some. Shellac is basically an insect based product, and dissolves with alcohol if you want to test for it, in an inconspicuous area.
Regards
Arran

[morzh]

Arran,

I decided i want this professionally done.
I spoke to two shops. Both are furniture restorers; the latter if further out but seems to know what to do. About 10 miles from me.
If the price is right (that is makes sense), I will use them.
And if i like the job, might as well use them for other things.

I mean, Fred Taylor probably is unsurpassed, and I have one of the examples of his work, which is just superb, but he is in TX.

[radiorich]

hello Mike,
Sounds like a good plan !!
Sincerely Richard

[morzh]

The new wire has just come.

Excellent match, same number of wires (5).

   
   

[radiorich]

Hello mike,
Very nice I bought same stuff to install in my General Electrice Console between the chassis and the speaker .
Sincerely Richard