11-10-2012, 08:55 AM
I see Steve answered one of your questions...and Arran answered another. And I also see that you used stain instead of tinted lacquer. But I'll post my thoughts anyway, just for fun.
#1)
Tone Finish and Ultra Classic colors are tinted lacquer. In other words, lacquer with pigment (Tone Finish) or dye (Ultra Classic) to color the lacquer.
Here is Light Antique Ivory from Wood Finisher's Source:
http://woodfinisherssource.com/cart/aero...m104-0417/
and in Almond:
http://woodfinisherssource.com/cart/aero...m104-0401/
And, for your next project, Medium Walnut Tone Finish.
http://woodfinisherssource.com/cart/aero...m101-0205/
#2)
Gloss would match what was used originally, but is considered too "glossy" for today's collectors, most of whom prefer semi-gloss.
Sanding sealer is not a finish, it is used before application of toners and finish (clear) coats.
Steve, I did not know that Minwax made any kind of lacquer. I thought they were one of the main proponents of the false teachings of the School of Poly Urethane.
#3)
Moot point now, but yes, PHILCO decals are available as are TRANSITONE decals. The TRANSITONE decals don't look ike the originals, but after years of complaints to Radio Daze, they finally corrected the PHILCO decals so that most of them now look authentic.
And if you must strip, I don't think a cabinet looks right if you try to strip around a decal - you can never completely blend it in with a new finish, it always seems to show.
#4)
Arran gave the best answer.
And, finally:
I would like to know about the tiny staples, myself. I messed up a nice refinish on a 38-14 cabinet last year by using a staple to hold in a piece of grille cloth mounted on the backing board - it made a tiny outward dent in the finish.
More recently, I have used contact cement to hold the dial covers in place, rather than repeat that mistake with a staple. I am sure there are better solutions. Others will chime in with those better solutions, I am sure.
#1)
winkydink Wrote:I can find Mohawk Tone Finisher, and Ultra Classic Toner in Medium Brown Walnut, but not a tinted lacquer.
Tone Finish and Ultra Classic colors are tinted lacquer. In other words, lacquer with pigment (Tone Finish) or dye (Ultra Classic) to color the lacquer.
Here is Light Antique Ivory from Wood Finisher's Source:
http://woodfinisherssource.com/cart/aero...m104-0417/
and in Almond:
http://woodfinisherssource.com/cart/aero...m104-0401/
And, for your next project, Medium Walnut Tone Finish.
http://woodfinisherssource.com/cart/aero...m101-0205/
#2)
winkydink Wrote:#2) I can find Deft in spray cans online (but not locally, my Lowes & Home Depot do not have them in stock). Which should I use: Gloss, Satin or Sanding Sealer ? ? ?
Gloss would match what was used originally, but is considered too "glossy" for today's collectors, most of whom prefer semi-gloss.
Sanding sealer is not a finish, it is used before application of toners and finish (clear) coats.
Steve, I did not know that Minwax made any kind of lacquer. I thought they were one of the main proponents of the false teachings of the School of Poly Urethane.
#3)
winkydink Wrote:#3) If I go the stripping route for the finish, what can I do about the Philco decal in the front ? Are new ones available ? Do I mask that off and try to "blend" the finish around the decal area ???
Moot point now, but yes, PHILCO decals are available as are TRANSITONE decals. The TRANSITONE decals don't look ike the originals, but after years of complaints to Radio Daze, they finally corrected the PHILCO decals so that most of them now look authentic.
And if you must strip, I don't think a cabinet looks right if you try to strip around a decal - you can never completely blend it in with a new finish, it always seems to show.
#4)
winkydink Wrote:#4) Cleaning cabinet with Gojo. I have read that you use #0000 Steel wool and the gojo ? How do you clean the gojo off the cabinet, just wipe it off after it has been rubbed in ?
Arran gave the best answer.
And, finally:
winkydink Wrote:In putting the cabinet and eschulon (sp) back together. The speaker cardboard and the front dial lens were held on with staples (small ones). What do people use to reapply this. Is there a small staple gun for tight places ect ????
I would like to know about the tiny staples, myself. I messed up a nice refinish on a 38-14 cabinet last year by using a staple to hold in a piece of grille cloth mounted on the backing board - it made a tiny outward dent in the finish.
More recently, I have used contact cement to hold the dial covers in place, rather than repeat that mistake with a staple. I am sure there are better solutions. Others will chime in with those better solutions, I am sure.
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN