Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Philco 37-660 Veneer Cracks
#1

The veneer on the front corners of the console cabinet are cracking on both the vertical and horizontal grain pieces. What are my options, if any, for repair?

Richard
#2

rquam Wrote:The veneer on the front corners of the console cabinet are cracking on both the vertical and horizontal grain pieces. What are my options, if any, for repair?

Richard

Do you have any pictures of this radio and it's problems? Pictures really help.
#3

John L Wrote:Do you have any pictures of this radio and it's problems? Pictures really help.

My apologies for not including photos with the original post.

[Image: http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn275...racks3.jpg]

[Image: http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn275...racks2.jpg]

[Image: http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn275...racks1.jpg]
#4

I'm sure that there must be a better way, but I suppose you could apply a Titebond II PVA glue under the cracked veneer,and press it closed and clamp it.

The problem with thicker veneers is that if they don't adhere as easily as others. They can crack from loose adhesion underneath, of just FWT(fair wear and tear)

Here is what I would do. Since the finish is still on the surface, keep it there for now. Get some Titebond II, not the regular carpenters glue, and saturate the underlayment. then try to apply some pressure to the surface and clamp it . If that does not work all that well, you can come back, once the glue dries and apply a hot steam iron to it(use it at the silk, poly settings first). the Titebond will allow you to iron the veneer to the substrate, so you will be able to get a lot of it to glue down. After you get it all down, lightly sand smooth, and reapply a finish to the edges.

I have ironed veneer on substrates before, and it works well with Titebond II. The nice thing about Titebond II is that it dries in pretty much the shade of the wood you are applying it to. Don't try Titebond III, because it is much darker and dries VERY dark, which you don't want.

Give it a try, it may work well too. Never can tell. Keep us posted and don't forget to take pictures. Icon_wink

For lively debate that is Libertarian/Classic Liberal oriented, try Ai-Jane.org. We aim to please.




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Correct model 84 Ac plug an cord type
Hello Arran Yes, I also like the lampshade style plug ! Sincerely Richardradiorich — 08:46 AM
Restoring Philco 38-14
Hello morzh, Nice explanation on the x and y capacitors and glad you are narrowing down the issue with this set ! Si...radiorich — 08:43 AM
Correct model 84 Ac plug an cord type
From what I read Philco went to using brown rubber power cords in 1936, so cloth was used in the 1935 and earlier models...Arran — 11:25 PM
Correct model 84 Ac plug an cord type
Hi Bruce, I have not worked on an 84, but in general, power cords for almost any radio prior to 1938 was cloth covered...MrFixr55 — 08:34 PM
Restoring Philco 38-14
OK, well, so after staring at the sch again, I realized the problem had to be the #12/12A padder. I put a scope on the o...morzh — 08:15 PM
Correct model 84 Ac plug an cord type
Hello Bruce, I mostly use brown far as my cloth powercords go ! Here is the plug that I have used bakelite Acorn style...radiorich — 08:05 PM
Correct model 84 Ac plug an cord type
Looking for as correct as can find the right Ac plug an the correct colored cloth line. Ive seen many old photos but mos...Bruce — 04:13 PM
Restoring Philco 38-14
Rod Two Y-caps make sense if you use them from L/N to the chassis; this is only makes sense in the transformer radios...morzh — 10:11 AM
Restoring Philco 38-14
Mike, I'm curious about a specific use of he Y cap. Lately I've seen a single cap across the power transformer primary. ...RodB — 09:01 AM
Restoring Philco 38-14
hello morzh , That sounds like a plan ! Sincerely Richardradiorich — 07:45 AM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 3923 online users. [Complete List]
» 1 Member(s) | 3922 Guest(s)
Avatar

>