[PhilcoJohn]

It wont be long before these little critters come over to us. For the last two years we have been taken over by stinkbugs! They made their way over to us from China.

[Ron Ramirez]

I'm surprised that woodworms aren't a problem here, with all of the antiques that have been shipped over here from the UK.

[HOTWIRE]

I have to say that I would be amazed if the woodworm are not in the US.  Although there are several different species.   Obviously they are not as big a deal there as they are here as you guys point out.

I will go ahead and make a device over this winter.   I will incorporate a turntable to rotate the cabinet.  The standard domestic microwave oven will be ok for parts I think as it also incorporates power management - reduction.  You know those settings that allow you to "turn it down" to defrost.  I have acquired a good but surplus microwave to work with.

2450MHz which is right for it.   1200 watts max capacity so I will govern this to deliver the required 250 watts and try some throwaway infested cabinet as test.   Gona be fun eh.    But not for the critters.   Think I will hook it up to a (seconds) timer to get accuracy from tests. 

Any other suggestions Guys.  .

Will.

[Phlogiston]

Try the "popcorn" setting.

[HOTWIRE]

Hopefully the bugs will be poping.

I think I will look into the technical aspects of microwave behaviour from these magnetrons a little more before proceeding. I want a good all round saturation heat effect. I think I will need to avoid "cold" spots if I am to get all the bugs throughout the cabinet.

[Phlogiston]

Keep in mind that there may be many metal fasteners, such as nails.

[Arran]

 In the linked video the fellow was injecting that woodworm killer by injecting it into the holes with a hypodermic needle. I don't know what is in that woodworm killer but I would bet you could inject kerosene, mineral spirits, or naptha into the holes and it would have the same effect, bugs don't usually enjoy petroleum distillates. Another thing that would work is isopropyl alcohol, or methyl hydrate, injected into the holes. But I think I would just bake the cabinet in a oven, at low temperature rather then playing around with microwaves.
Regards
Arran

[HOTWIRE]

The various distillates etc mentioned above evaporate leaving little residue to be effective. They are also reliant on osmosis to get into the fibres of the wood. It is well known that this is extremely difficult unless there is prolonged soaking of the wood which in itself has obvious implications. Application of woodworm killer through good application with brush and syringe is probably most effective. I think it acts like a neurotoxin on the bug, However it is not effective against eggs and only effects the larva. Good, but not 100% effective again because of the saturation difficulty. All of this has been comprehensively covered in various forums including antique furniture etc.

Professional antique furniture restoration companies use Microwave technology to eliminate the Eggs, Larva and adults.
With Knowledge and safety in mind. I see no reason why a custom built microwave oven should be avoided.

A standard Oven may well also be of use if the temperature can be developed and held precisely in order to avoid damage to existing coatings and veneers and joints. The oven needs to be large enough to hold a cabinet.

Nails are dense enough to reflect microwaves.

Thank you for your suggestions and please be assured that my mind is not at all closed to any suggestions. indeed I would continue to use woodworm killer even after microwave treatment, but I have not yet heard a convincing reason not to proceed with this project.

So please keep em coming.

Will.

[Alan Douglas]

I don't know the life cycle of Irish woodworms, but here we have powder-post beetles. The adult insects lay eggs on suitable wood (the right moisture content, not finished, some wood species preferred over others), and the beetles start boring. After many years (at least ten, I believe) they emerge and fly off to lay more eggs. The holes are emergence holes, so it does no good to use insecticide there since the beetles are long gone. Also most insecticides won't penetrate solid wood. Certain levels of heat or cold will kill them. I think the safest is what museums do, enclose the items in a bag filled with carbon dioxide.

[Phlogiston]

How long would you have to leave them in the bag?

[HOTWIRE]

        Attached a Pye P74 I restored about four years ago.   It is from the family to me so has particular sentimental value. It was a gift to my parents from my godmother on the occasion of my birth.

Image1. shows it restored. Image2 shows flight holes which appeared two and a half years later. It had been well treated with woodworm killer and stored for months in a sealed bag.  There was no indication of infestation prior to restoration but it had been stored in a shed before being passed on to me which did have a piece of furniture which was infested.   I am convinced it picked up eggs in that short time storage environment.   Point is, the eggs obviously survived the treatment to emerge two and a half years later. Maybe the treatment got some or a lot of them.   I don't know. But I do know it did not get em all.

I WANT TO KILL EM ALL.   Every last on of the son of a guns.

I would like to feel more confident that the treatment is thorough.

[Alan Douglas]

How long would you have to leave them in the bag?

I don't know.  I left some parts of a reed organ in a bag for two years after tossing in some dry ice and sealing it.  I haven't seen any new holes since. I suppose the CO2 had leaked out by that time.

Before that, I tried injecting carbon disulfide into any holes since I had a bottle of it. That didn't work. It's used for fumigating grain but I wouldn't recommend it since it's very toxic.

[Warren]

I think a bonfire works best for those kinds of pests.

[Arran]

 I was looking for the name of the chemical they used to terminate termites, it's methyl bromide, it is, or was used for tent fumigation of a house. I think what is needed is a way to kill the eggs, which a lot of the suggested things will do, the residual effect is what you need to prevent re-infestation. The microwave idea will kill the eggs too, but there is definately no residual protection there either. Maybe the wood could be coated with a boric acid solution, that stuff kills carpenter ants and other insects, or a copper based solution.
Regards
Arran

[Phlogiston]

Cuprinol! It will be green and stink, but you can burry it and dig it up in a year after the bugs die.