[Arran]

Arran

yes, this is what I ended up doing; ordered an excess number of caps from Mouser. Good caps are expensive, I ordered the Vishay  with 630VDC/220VAC rating tubular, this one:

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDeta...1813410635

and it is $1.28/pc.

I am sure there are cheaper ones but not from Mouser. Another plus of these: they are large and come with sturdy long leads which helps. As for those caps some suppliers sell, no-name or names unknown to me, I simply do not trust.

As for the twist lock, like I wrote above, found corrosion inside as it was not reforming well. You can always tell by how the reforming current behaves, whether the cap is improving or not. I restuffed it and I did not quite follow the values as from the sch the 5uF can be replaced with 12uF, 15uF 450V - with 20uF (it is not the first rectifier filter cap so the value is not critical if it is larger), and the 15uF 250V - also can be 12uF without any ill effects.

The first 30uF rectifier cap - I found two solutions, the Nichicon high ripple cap that provides about 500mA ripple, which is not bad, and then I decided to go with two 68uF caps in series that will afford almost 800mA ripple. I hope they fit in the can, I think they should. I almost always do this when restuffing the first cap in all my larger radios; with smaller ones I use a single high ripple cap solution. I use full voltage rating or close on each cap: this gives me two advantages: 1) no leakage equalizing resistors needed, and 2) higher voltage dictates higher ripple rating.

Basically if the old rectifiers did not rely on the capacitance size to determine the magnitude of the output voltage and the rectifier tubes itself did not limit the output cap size, I would simply use 100uF high ripple across the board, those have more than enough ripple rating, but unfortunately it s not the case and one has to be crafty with these to balance between the size, ripple rating and the needed capacitance, as today's caps simply smaller than those from the days of yore.

Mike;
  For replacing paper caps I use the ones from WJOE radio, which are semi generic, they have the brand name of some Taiwan company, but I always put them through my EICO resistance-capacitance bridge tester and test them at high voltage first, I haven't found a bad one so far. I have bought some from Radiodaze before, with those you sometimes get a no name cap but in other instances they sent me Mallory brand caps which have an "M" with a horizontal line through it. If you don't mind radial lead caps Panasonics are pretty good, they have a new series of large value film caps, with a built in fuse feature, which could be useful for early AC sets like a Philco 20 or an RCA Radiola 18 that used large paper caps as filters.
  There seems to be a difference of opinion about adding equalizing resistors when running electrolytic caps in series, in some books they suggest this but Allan Douglas cited some material that suggested it as being unnecessary, at least with modern electrolytics. Perhaps the manufacturing tolerances are better now, which would make some sense. I've used old photoflash capacitors salvaged out of disposable cameras and they didn't seem to mind being connected in series without the resistors, they were 330 VDC though, and usually of the Rubicon brand.
  From my understanding the value of the input capacitor is what is supposed to matter in terms of size, at least with rectifier tubes like a #80 and their octal descendents, the output side is not supposed to matter. It's something I didn't really observe in the past, I used those same photoflash capacitors in series and some were 160 uf as singles, it didn't seem to make much difference in the B+ voltage, or in the life of the rectifier, but then again these almost always had a field coil on the other side as a choke. In AC/DC sets I often used the 160 uf straight on off the 35Z5/35W4, same story, and many of the sets I did this with were used as "Daily Drivers". I wonder if this is related to the fact that they are intended to be used in camera flashes, in that they are supposed to charge quickly from a cheap inverter supply powered by a AA cell, or just the fact that they are electrolytics of a more modern design and formulation?
Regards
Arran