11-26-2010, 01:26 PM
I would be happy to help, although there are folks on this forum with much more experience than I have. My cabinet was in good shape, but the photofinish was toast.
Tools you will need:
Clothes Iron
X-acto Knife
400 and 600 grit sandpaper
Steel wool 0 and 000
Steel ruler
Spray Mister
Green Scotch Brite pads
Disposable 1â paint brushes
Supplies
Clear gloss lacquer
Lacquer sanding sealer
Medium Walnut Lacquer toner
Wood GRAIN filler in walnut
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2020580...alnut.aspx
Lacquer Thinner
Citrusol stripper
Brown Spray Paint
Titebond II
Steps:
1. Remove all the guts of the cabinet including the antenna and speaker
2. If you look at the top of the speaker slats you will see a single slotted screw that holds them in remove the screw and push the slat inward and you can wiggle it off the dowel pin. Remove all the slats.
3. Blow out the cabinet to get rid of dust
4. Mask off the outside and the labels inside and re-shoot the interior of the cabinet with the brown paint
5. Using lacquer thinner and scotch-brite start stripping off the finish. Soak the surface well and use a cabinet scraper along going WITH the grain on the flats.
6. I hit the grooves and any stubborn areas with Citrus-sol followed by scotchbrite
7. Let dry overnight and repeat again the next day
8. I continued with lacquer thinner and 0 steel wool until clean
9. Wipe down the cabinet with a rag or paper towel wet with lacquer thinner until they come up clean.
10. Let dry overnight
11. Fill any dents/scratches with wood filler
12. Prepare for the veneer. I think this would be much easier with paper backed veneer if you can find it reasonably. These are essentially peel and stick like contact paper made of woodâ¦. I used unfaced veneer I got off ebay
a. I made a paper template of the areas to be veneered
b. Using a steel ruler and x-acto knife cut to size
c. The area under the radio cutout is easiest to do first Do one piece at a time
d. Mask off the surrounding area and paint the console side with a thin c oat of Titebond and let dry
e. Put a second coat on the console and a single coat on the veneer and let dry
f. Heat up the Iron and then lightly mist the front(unglued) side of the veneer with water to make it flexible
g. Starting at one edge Iron the veneer onto the cabinet use a cotton rag or a paper bag between the iron and veneer to prevent scorching. Work slowly and make sure to eliminate any bubbles mist as needed to maintain flexibility
h. When you do the curved pieces next to the speaker area it is easier to work from the console side toward the speaker hole. Keep things damp to aid getting it over the curves. If you get lifting along the edge I let everything else set and then used a toothpick to transfer more glue under the lifted edge and hit it again with the iron.
13. Once the veneer was finished I sanded the entire cabinet and slats with 400 and then 600 and blew off the dust. I went over the whole thing carefully and looked for any lifting veneer or chips that needed to be repaired.
14. Thin the wood grain filler to a paste and paint on the cabinet and slats. Use a rag to work it into the grain . Cover the whole cabinet including the veneer.
15. Once dry sand again with 400 then 600. Run your hand over the wood and refill any spots with raised grain . I used sanding blocks and sandpaper wrapped around foam to get into the contours. Once I was happy I hit it with 000 steel wool. And cleaned with a lacquer thinner moistened rag blew off all the dust.
16. Spray with Sanding sealer and once again hit it with 000 wool
17. Reattach the speaker slats to the cabinet
18. I found this video to be helpful http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Enyd1JEO9pE
19. Use the toner in multiple light coats to get where you want from a color perspective
20. Topcoat with gloss lacquer then 000 wool again and blow off dust
21. 2 more coats of gloss then 000 again add the decal and one more coat of lacquer.
Tools you will need:
Clothes Iron
X-acto Knife
400 and 600 grit sandpaper
Steel wool 0 and 000
Steel ruler
Spray Mister
Green Scotch Brite pads
Disposable 1â paint brushes
Supplies
Clear gloss lacquer
Lacquer sanding sealer
Medium Walnut Lacquer toner
Wood GRAIN filler in walnut
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2020580...alnut.aspx
Lacquer Thinner
Citrusol stripper
Brown Spray Paint
Titebond II
Steps:
1. Remove all the guts of the cabinet including the antenna and speaker
2. If you look at the top of the speaker slats you will see a single slotted screw that holds them in remove the screw and push the slat inward and you can wiggle it off the dowel pin. Remove all the slats.
3. Blow out the cabinet to get rid of dust
4. Mask off the outside and the labels inside and re-shoot the interior of the cabinet with the brown paint
5. Using lacquer thinner and scotch-brite start stripping off the finish. Soak the surface well and use a cabinet scraper along going WITH the grain on the flats.
6. I hit the grooves and any stubborn areas with Citrus-sol followed by scotchbrite
7. Let dry overnight and repeat again the next day
8. I continued with lacquer thinner and 0 steel wool until clean
9. Wipe down the cabinet with a rag or paper towel wet with lacquer thinner until they come up clean.
10. Let dry overnight
11. Fill any dents/scratches with wood filler
12. Prepare for the veneer. I think this would be much easier with paper backed veneer if you can find it reasonably. These are essentially peel and stick like contact paper made of woodâ¦. I used unfaced veneer I got off ebay
a. I made a paper template of the areas to be veneered
b. Using a steel ruler and x-acto knife cut to size
c. The area under the radio cutout is easiest to do first Do one piece at a time
d. Mask off the surrounding area and paint the console side with a thin c oat of Titebond and let dry
e. Put a second coat on the console and a single coat on the veneer and let dry
f. Heat up the Iron and then lightly mist the front(unglued) side of the veneer with water to make it flexible
g. Starting at one edge Iron the veneer onto the cabinet use a cotton rag or a paper bag between the iron and veneer to prevent scorching. Work slowly and make sure to eliminate any bubbles mist as needed to maintain flexibility
h. When you do the curved pieces next to the speaker area it is easier to work from the console side toward the speaker hole. Keep things damp to aid getting it over the curves. If you get lifting along the edge I let everything else set and then used a toothpick to transfer more glue under the lifted edge and hit it again with the iron.
13. Once the veneer was finished I sanded the entire cabinet and slats with 400 and then 600 and blew off the dust. I went over the whole thing carefully and looked for any lifting veneer or chips that needed to be repaired.
14. Thin the wood grain filler to a paste and paint on the cabinet and slats. Use a rag to work it into the grain . Cover the whole cabinet including the veneer.
15. Once dry sand again with 400 then 600. Run your hand over the wood and refill any spots with raised grain . I used sanding blocks and sandpaper wrapped around foam to get into the contours. Once I was happy I hit it with 000 steel wool. And cleaned with a lacquer thinner moistened rag blew off all the dust.
16. Spray with Sanding sealer and once again hit it with 000 wool
17. Reattach the speaker slats to the cabinet
18. I found this video to be helpful http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Enyd1JEO9pE
19. Use the toner in multiple light coats to get where you want from a color perspective
20. Topcoat with gloss lacquer then 000 wool again and blow off dust
21. 2 more coats of gloss then 000 again add the decal and one more coat of lacquer.
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