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Starting to refinish my Highboy 90
#7

It's a tough call to make without seeing it in real life. Unless I'm going to totally re-veneer a very large area, I don't like the paper backed veneers. I've found that most radio work is just patching in small places where veneer has chipped off. For that, I like the new veneer to be a little thicker, or at least as thick as what is on the radio. If the new veneer is a little thicker, you don't have to sand the old veneer much to get a match in surface height, does that make sense? The paper backed veneer I've seen is very thin. That's why I like to strip veneer off of old, scrap cabinets.

I am assuming you are just planning to patch the veneer on that radio.. so

if I were overseas, and If I had to order some for the radio you are working on, I'd get this..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Walnut-wood-vene...0970144399

It's a nice piece of walnut veneer and should provide a lot of wood to fix typical chipped cabinets. The color is dark enough to blend in with most old wood with years of patina. If I've got to have a mismatch in veneer color, I'd always prefer the new piece be a little darker than the original. I find it's easier to hide the mistake when it's dark. A lighter color really stands out like a sore thumb.

If you are going to re-veneer a large area, then I'd look at the paper backed, iron on veneer. If you are ever at a flea market and see an old table or cabinet with peeling veneer for sale cheap, buy it. It's great to be able to just go break off a small piece when you need it.

The artist formerly known as Puhpow! 8)


Messages In This Thread
RE: Starting to refinish my Highboy 90 - by Jamie - 09-14-2013, 02:34 PM
RE: Starting to refinish my Highboy 90 - by Jamie - 09-15-2013, 10:27 AM
RE: Starting to refinish my Highboy 90 - by Arran - 09-15-2013, 11:03 PM



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