[TV MAN]

Those 110 pF caps are wax-paper-foil.  

Use replacement 110pF silver-micas.

#6 on page 1. They sure look like micas, but I noted in the parts list some say "mica", and others don't. Now that I look, #43 does say it's a mica (it also seems to depend on which part list I look at!). Oh well, I didn't like the way it was soldered in there, so it is replaced. Probably wont hurt anything anyway for an 80 year part. Thanks for the link to find those washers. Gonna tackle #45 next.

[TV MAN]

I had a chance to work on things again today, and it has been interesting. To begin with, my solder sucker came from togetherness and flew in different directions. So, I patched it with electric tape until I get a new one. I am working in an area of this radio that has some previous service, or hacking may be a better term. It seemed this radio liked to do quite a bit of smoking and the repairman liked to destroy the bakelite blocks. Most resisters have been replaced, and huge globs of solder on the terminals and a half fried dogbone. Oh, if you look at the far left bakelite (23), the terminal was also clipped, and left with no cap attached! I guess the cap shorted and the repairman just clipped it to fix instead of replacing with something else. Maybe wasn't too critical. Enough of these resistors have drifted or been fried that I may replace all.
Below is the #23 bakelite in the IF section .1 and .01 and I verified that I have these connected properly.
   
   
Fried...
   

[TV MAN]

I am elbow deep in this 610 and hit a snag. With the number of errors in this service info, I need to ask a few questions before I start snipping. I am posting a diagram below for reference.

I have found #38 shows 71k, should be 50k, #39 shows 25k, part list says 10k, #55 shows 1.7meg, list says 750k. I figure these could have drifted up, but if someone has one a 610 chassis open and has these original resistors, I would like to compare readings. If these are indeed bad, they are fairly large, so a wattage recommendation would be helpful.
   

[KCMike]

When you say shows x value. Is that what your reading on a test meter or the color code of the resistor in the radio?

[TV MAN]

Mike, that's reading in circuit with the Fluke meter.

I struggle to read colors thanks to inheriting some color blindness from my grandfather... I suspect they have drifted, but don't want to stick a "schematic correct" resistor in there only to find it is wrong. Just trying to verify. I have seen several of these pass through recently, so I am betting someone has one sitting on the bench and could take a few quick readings.

[Steve Davis]

Tim, your resistors, almost certainly, have drifted and will need to be replaced.

Steve

[TV MAN]

I made some progress tonight. A needed part showed up, so I finished (what I believe) a problem area. Thanks Mike and Steve for your help! I replaced all the out of spec resistors in this section, and have new caps installed. I sure hate to see the dogbones go, but if they aren't any good, I have to get them out of there. I guess this is one area nostalgia isn't the best thing.
   

[Steve Davis]

Tim, you can make new dog bone resistors. Take a look here   http://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=5501

Steve

[TV MAN]

Thanks for the link, Steve. I might give that a try a little down the road. I have my parts soldered in such a way that I can unsolder easily to replace in the future. I will probably finish the power supply next, (have 3 resistors that need replaced, 2 bones). Going to revamp my electrolytic cap connections I made earlier. Not happy with them. Ohohhhh, I think I am having a terminal strip attack!!

I pulled the tuner to clean, replace the rubber mounts and to better clean the chassis. Waiting on an ultrasonic cleaner to show up from Ebay.

[TV MAN]

I took the opportunity to clean the tuner cap in my ultrasonic cleaner today. It turned out pretty good. This tuner doesn't have any trimmer caps and looks simple.
   
   
In the cleaning process I removed the shaft assembly. It seems to have some type of gear reduction inside. It works ok, so not knowing, I may clean it outside and put it back on. I didn't drop in the Ultra cleaner.
   
It looks like it has a c-clip holding it together. Anyone been into one of these before?

[KCMike]

You might look at this one. I believe it is similar to the 610 dial drive.
http://www.philcorepairbench.com/tips/svctip39.htm

[TV MAN]

Thanks Mike for the info on that shaft. Mine seems smooth, but could use a cleaning and relube. Not sure if I am gonna mess with it or just try to clean it and run some clock oil down the shaft and call it good.  I finished the recap and have all the out of tolerance resistors replaced (I think ). I need to get the tuner lubed and reinstalled with new rubber bushings. Then I can install the recapped tone control. Progress ...

[Ron Ramirez]

Tim

If I were you...and especially since you have an ultrasonic parts cleaner now...I would definitely disassemble, clean, regrease and reinstall that shaft assembly. Believe me, it is only going to get worse if you don't clean it up now. That decades-old grease needs to be cleaned up, cleaned out, and replaced with new white lithium grease.

Yes, the assembly is held in place by a C-clip. Remove the clip, and then carefully - while pushing in on the inner shaft - pull both outer and inner shaft free of the retainer.

Beware of five ball bearings inside. Don't lose them! There will be three larger ball bearings in the end of the outer shaft. Deep down inside the outer shaft is a smaller ball bearing, a spring, and another smaller ball bearing.

I have worked on some Philcos with dial drives that were in such bad shape that they are still rough even after cleaning, regreasing, and reassembly. My Philco Tropic 41-722T's tuning is still very rough due to a badly worn two-speed concentric shaft assembly, but since there aren't very many 41-722s around I will have to live with it. It, along with the rest of my Tropics, are shelf queens anyway so it's not like they see daily use anymore.

[TV MAN]

I followed your advice Ron and took things apart. Yup, things were nasty. I couldn't even get the ball bearings out until I soaked in thinner for several hours. Then cleaned in the ultra cleaner. I really don't know how it even worked. I counted 3 larger balls and 2 smaller balls. I know the bigger balls go outside and the small ones inside. Just to be sure on the inside order, small ball-spring-small ball-shaft, with the large balls put in from the inside out before the shaft is put in? Is synthetic grease ok or is lithium better?.

I noticed a few rough spots  on the shaft ball, but it is on the outer part, not the inner (towards the shaft). Nothing noted there.
Before:
   
After:
   

[Ron Ramirez]

I think synthetic might be better...longer life, I would assume...

To reassemble: One small ball goes into the large shaft first, then spring, then other small ball. Then small shaft partway in, with three large balls put in place from the outside (not inside), then slide the inner shaft in most of the way while holding the large ball bearings, keeping them from popping out. Of course this assumes grease has been applied where needed first. Then push the inner shaft in all the way as you slide the entire assembly back into the keeper. Once it is all back together, the large ball bearings will keep the inner shaft from coming out. It's easier to just do it than to describe it.

Great job on cleaning that shaft assembly! It should now be good for another 70 or so years.