[morzh]

Oh yeah, remember that sub-panel.....Kirk's 45 that was. There is stuff underneath too....

[PhilcoPhan1936]

Hi Jeff - I'm a big fan of the 45C too. Of course there are plenty of other Philco models that are better radios electronically - but this one has such an iconic design.

Anyway, I thought you might find this 'before' photo useful for comparison. It's from a 45C I restored a while ago:

[Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4364/3605...ccd0_b.jpg]

Sorry it's not oriented the same as your photo.

Nathan,
I was studying your pic, and I noticed that you had an extra bakelite block installed. Any idea why? Do you remember what it was doing there during your restore? I'm referring to the one that is mounted to the back of the chassis, to the left of the voltage divider coil in the center bottom of your pic. Looks like from the wiring it was an add-on.

[jerryhawthorne]

Jeff, nice job. When your done with it I will provide you a mailing address! Love that radio.
Best, Jerry

[Nathan Slingerland]

That's a really good question about that bakelite block. I don't see it mentioned in the service bulletin - or in the changes for models document.

However... it is not unique to that Philco 45! Here's a picture from a *different* Philco 45 chassis that I worked on:
[Image: http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w374...htm0dd.jpg]

As you can kind of see from that angle - it's part 3615-BM. According to the 'Philco Condensers and More' book - 3615-BM is a 0.1uF (actually two 0.05uF in parallel) cap.

It's connected between ground and the junction between those two 70K resistors (parts 36 and 37). Which makes it part 41. That's shown on the parts diagram as a tubular capacitor (30-4170). Note that capacitor is missing from both photos.

And one last datapoint - discussion about this same mystery block on the AR forum:

http://www.antiqueradios.com/forums/view...&view=next

So there are at least three Philco 45Cs out there with that block instead of a tubular cap. Which one any of the rest of them have it's hard to say. 

[Nathan Slingerland]

Ah ha! I just noticed that this eBay auction of a (really uglified) Philco 45C has a picture of the bottom of the chassis - and it *doesn't* have that bakelite block. So it's whichever way you prefer I guess.

   

[morzh]

I worked on a 45 chassis and it did not have it.
Could be a part of a repair. Or maybe even a factory mod, documented or not....Ron could clarify this for us.

[Kenneth F. Besso Jr.]

different CODE ---Maybe????

[Ron Ramirez]

Look at your Philco Changes in Models information packet.

Don't have one? It's here - available to Phorum members only.

On Page 2 of the Changes in Models packet:

11-1-34, Run 15. Condenser (41) changed from Part No. 30-4170 (tubular) to 3615-BM (bakelite block type). The latter has a higher working voltage.

[Nathan Slingerland]

Thank you Ron!

Not sure how I missed that.

[PhilcoPhan1936]

Look at your Philco Changes in Models information packet.

Don't have one? It's here - available to Phorum members only.

On Page 2 of the Changes in Models packet:

11-1-34, Run 15. Condenser (41) changed from Part No. 30-4170 (tubular) to 3615-BM (bakelite block type). The latter has a higher working voltage.

Thanks for the info Ron. My question was purely out of curiosity. That said, when I replaced the cap, (tubular) it was with one rated at 630v.

[PhilcoPhan1936]

Slowly chipping away at it. I had noticed that Cap 22 (a bakelite block) had been removed, and 2 black bumblebees put in its place. I knew someone who had a spare chassis with the block number I needed, so I bought it. I was in the process of installing it, when I noticed a coil of thin wire hanging down behind one of the component mounting boards.   . I traced the wire, and discovered it was from the antenna coil transformer assembly. The part that is up inside the core.  
I carefully fished it out, and removed the assembly. Miraculously, the wires were still intact, and measured 38ohms.

[Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4260/3547...95b7_b.jpg]

I had to take a break for a couple days due to other work, and came back to it the other night, and by that time had figured out a battle plan.
I had to figure out how to get the core out, so I could reattach the wayward spool of wire. That done, I carefully wound the wire back on the small spool, and used melted wax from a candle to secure the wire.

[Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4213/3547...ef14_b.jpg]

Once I got the wire re-wound back on the small coil, I also had to wind some back onto the main core. I also secured that with some wax.

[Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4256/3547...8f4c_b.jpg]

[Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4260/3547...9cfc_b.jpg]

Then it was time to re-mount the core back inside.

[Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4210/3547...212b_b.jpg]

[Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4285/3547...254e_b.jpg]

And finally, re-install the coil assembly.

[Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4215/3547...70d3_b.jpg]

[PhilcoPhan1936]

Next was the band switch. It was completely frozen.    I wound up having to pop the retaining clips off the shaft, and push the shaft in, in order to get an oil or lube into the shaft/sleeve assembly. WD40 just didn't cut it. Once I got it out and cleaned it, I applied some 3in1 oil, and pushed it back in. Of course, the contact spring clips had popped off.  

[Image: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4205/3547...1cc8_b.jpg]

[morzh]

I had a similar thing in my 66. Frozen dead.

[klondike98]

This is a great thread! Thanks!

[KCMike]

+ One on what Bob said.