[KCMike]

 Yea Mike it sounds like you got lucky if it lasts.
What did you decide to do about the speaker cone?

[morzh]

I haven't decided yet. I have very little experience fixing speakers, and the fact that the corrugated suspension has disintegrated might indicate the cone is not in that great of a shape either.
This makes me want to re-cone it. Or buy a newer speaker in good shape.

[Steve Davis]

This makes me want to re-cone it. Or buy a newer speaker in good shape.

K-17 speakers don't show up on the auction site very often. You will probably have to re-cone your speaker.                      
     
Steve

[Radioroslyn]

After observing your spkr it doesn't have a removable cone, yours is glued in on the outside edges. What I was referring to is a cone like the one in a model 20. It has a cardboard ring around the perimeter that unscrews that hold the outside edge of the cone in place. Philco didn't use this set up on just the early set but I've seen it used up to the 1937 models on some of the larger sets.
I would send it out to get a new cone. There is a place in NJ that does it.

[KCMike]

I gave it a try on a philco mod. 20 speaker but had problems with the paper where I cut the old voice coil out.
It was very brittle and I tore some when trying to glue it in. But you may do a lot better. The cone itself was only about a $1.50 it plays, but distorted.
[Image: http://i1336.photobucket.com/albums/o654...uadgoq.jpg]

[Ron Ramirez]

The cone can be unglued from the frame. All it takes is a little acetone and a lot of patience.

An eyedropper is a big help (just make sure you never...EVER...use that eyedropper in your, or anyone else's, eye ever again!). Use the eyedropper's vacuum action to get some acetone into it, then squirt liberally all around the perimeter of the cone. You may have to do this two or three times. Eventually, the outer edge will come loose.

[morzh]

Thanks guys.

When it comes to things mechanical, or speakers, I am, as we say in Russian, "рукожоп" which is literally an "a**-handed person" (whose hands grow out of his you know what) or "all thumbs" as you say in English.
At least if I send it out they might be able to salvage the voice coil.

PS. Just spoke to Rich Stamer, he says they do not preserve voice coils but then they do match the impedance so who cares then.
$45 for 8" (not sure what the cathedral 16 speaker size is but it is plus-minus $5).

[Ron Ramirez]

Yes - the 16B cathedral speaker (K-17) is 8 inches in diameter.

You are indeed fortunate to have a speaker repair guy practically in your backyard. It's the poor schmucks like me who would have to deal with shipping.

"рукожоп"

Fascinating. How do you pronounce that? I think I can pick most of it out, thanks to you, but it's that fifth Cyrillic letter that is unfamiliar...

[morzh]

"рукожоп"

Fascinating. How do you pronounce that? I think I can pick most of it out, thanks to you, but it's that fifth Cyrillic letter that is unfamiliar...

Roo-koh-zhohp. Rhymes with "top" if the short "o" pronounced British style. The stress is on the last syllable.
Made from "рука" (roo-kah) - an arm/hand and "жопа" (zhoh-pah) - "arse"

[Steve Davis]

Mike (KC Mike),if you have distortion, your voice coil is probably rubbing. Did you try to recenter it?

Steve

[KCMike]

Mike (KC Mike),if you have distortion, your voice coil is probably rubbing. Did you try to recenter it?

Steve

Not yet Steve, will give that a try and also use some shims around the VC. Thanks

[morzh]

The filter choke repair continues:

Meanwhile went to Hobby lobby and bought fabric eyelet fasteners for fabric.
There are similar ones for leather, but the fabric ones are preferable as the barrel at the end is already scored to form petals, while the leather ones are not and also are thicker (or so I think).

I wish they sold just a tad larger size than 5/32 as the next one up is much larger, and would not fit in the hole in my choke platform. I was in doubt when buying it and even thought they would be too small and not long enough, but.....



   
   
   
   


....as you can see they fit just fine. And the screw although very close, still goes through nicely. In fact if they had brass (not bright shiny golden one) it would look exactly as it was before.

[klondike98]

Looking good!

[morzh]

#52 cap.


The 16 I have seems to be the version shown without mentioning 125-127 obes, the initial one.


http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Resources/139/M0013139.htm

The underchassis dwg is correct.

Now to #52 cap: it is shown as 7296-G which is a dual 0.05uF and 0.002uF. The sch shows only one cap, from Grid of 78 QAVC tube. The value shown seems to be 0.002uF though can't be sure it is not for #51 cap.

However the installed cap is 3903-AH.

It is not found in Chuck's table but I found a topic here

http://philcoradio.com/phorum/archive/in...d-749.html

Where Chuck says it is a dual 0.09uF cap. This does not look like what I have as mine has only 2 lugs, 1 and 5 and it checks at 20nF (resistor cut) which does notmake sense either as usually these go up in value if anything.

So, who could show me the #52 cap value? It is bolted to the side of the chassis.

[KCMike]

Mike the 3903AH according to what I have is the discontinued # and was replaced with 3903-SG which my chart only shows a 3903-OSG which says should be 1-.01 cap.